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Old 08-17-2012, 07:47 AM   #1
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bay window roof


Dear All,
The cover on the bay window was stolen months ago. I have tried to fix the rainwater penetration via cracks on the exposed concrete roof using flashband. I would like to carry on the job to let rainwater flow to the gutter rather than run along the wall.
Basically I am a new diyer. I plan to cover the roof with bituminous felt. Do I need to nail the felt to the concrete roof and lead flashing alone the elevattion and roof? Alternatively do you think it is better to cover the roof with tile or something else? I appreciate any advice from your guys to help me finish the job properly.
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bay window roof-rsz_2dscn0021.jpg   bay window roof-rsz_d3865547.jpg  


Last edited by beresford; 08-17-2012 at 08:05 AM.
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:52 AM   #2
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Pictures help in this case.

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Old 08-17-2012, 08:09 AM   #3
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Sorry, I just forgot the attachment. The pics look a bit odd after resizing.
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Pictures help in this case.
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:42 PM   #4
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Forget the felt. Just buy 4# lead and roof it with that.
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:22 PM   #5
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The bay window roof is very low since the house is below the road level. I am a bit worried that the lead will soon be stolen again.



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Forget the felt. Just buy 4# lead and roof it with that.
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:11 PM   #6
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I wouldn't think there's much of a market for lead in recycling. Lots of places won't take it. It has a bad name for some reason I can't fathom.
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:12 PM   #7
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And, it's too heavy to run far with either.
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:36 PM   #8
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ha, it is not difficult to rent a van to carry it these days ...
anyway as you can see the roof is terraced, do I need to lay the lead from the roof edge above the gutter all the way to the wall and embed the lead into the wall? If I only cover the edge above the gutter, how can i seal the other end of lead sheet?
To cover the roof with slate, is it possible to nail the slate to the concrete wall? and is it ok only to cover the roof edge with slate?

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And, it's too heavy to run far with either.
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:39 PM   #9
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Too flat for slate.
The lead needs ot wrapped around and clamped tightly to the drip edge metal on the roof. At the top of any sheet, fold the top edge of the lead over to form a flat-lock. Make the flaps 2".
Take the next sheet and fold the edge under and slide it into the lock on the first sheet. Dress it down with a mallet.
Look at the links on my website for more details and some answers I posted earlier today about metal roof repairs.
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:45 PM   #10
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Oh. At the wall, turn the lead up 3" or so.

For the counter-flashing, just stagger the lead from mortar joint to mortar joint, tucking it into the joint. At the top just tuck it into the mortar joint under the window sill at the top. It can lay on the roof at the bottom, or be above the roof somewhat. Seal with caulk or mortar.
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:34 AM   #11
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If you put copper it will get stolen if you go lead more than likely it won't get stolen. I've been recycling metals for several years and last year started taking the lead off the two piece plumbing vents. A five gallon bucket which is fairly heavy only earned me $7. More than likely will keep taking the lead off the pipes only to not have them being melted with the steel.
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:00 PM   #12
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And, it's too heavy to run far with either.
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:43 PM   #13
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Thanks to everyone.
I may try to carry on the job with lead according to your proposal. Do I need to nail the lead to the roof somewhere in case it falls off at bad weather? The roof has two steps which may make it not easy to clamp the lead tightly to the roof.
By the way why I shouldn't use felt? Is there other way to cover the roof and lead rain water to the gutter? I live in the UK. With economy in double dip recession there are burglaries for lead pipe/gutter indeed. The roof is within touch from the road.

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Oh. At the wall, turn the lead up 3" or so.

For the counter-flashing, just stagger the lead from mortar joint to mortar joint, tucking it into the joint. At the top just tuck it into the mortar joint under the window sill at the top. It can lay on the roof at the bottom, or be above the roof somewhat. Seal with caulk or mortar.

Last edited by beresford; 08-18-2012 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:04 PM   #14
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Use copper cleats to hold the lead in position. About 3" wide by 5" long, 12" apart. Just hook them to the folds, drive in 2 copper nails or 3, per cleat, and fold the tab end of the cleats back over the nails.
Use felt if you want. It shouldn't hurt the lead, or your roof.
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:09 PM   #15
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Why has no one suggest standing seam?
Just asking.
Cheap, not worth stealing.

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