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Old 06-16-2012, 04:40 PM   #31
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Is this how I should be planning on birdmouthing the hips? I read that you shouldn't cut out more that 1/4 way through. This would only give the roof a 5 7/8" rise over a run of 16', is that enough or do I need to go higher up the house-roof?
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Old 06-16-2012, 06:48 PM   #32
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Yes. And no. You'll need to run them down to 1" thick, of even to a complete taper. Get the flat roof dripe-dge with the 3" face and then calculate the thickness needed.

That 1/4 way rule will not apply because you aren't running any of the rafter beyond the existing fascia. Normal construction will have the rafter end extending as much as 32" past the birds mouth. Not applicable here. You might have an 18" long bearing surface in this scenario compared to a 3-1/2" birdsmouth on an exterior wall.
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Old 06-16-2012, 07:21 PM   #33
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I forgot to mention. If the birdsmouth did grow to 18", you'd want two nailers side by side to spread the footprint.
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:22 PM   #34
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Okay, so I think I have it now. The contact is longer than 18" though. It would be 1 9/16" at the end so after the 3/4" nailer the drip edge would cover 1/2" down past the nailer. The drip edge goes on before the OSB if I'm understanding correctly. This would make the new pitch a 9 5/16" rise over a 14' 6 13/16" run.
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:46 PM   #35
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Nailers.
Rafters.
OSB.
Nailable Base. Folded over the outer edge.
Drip edge. Prime it with asphalt primer if I'm not mistaken. Ask the supplier to be sure what's compatible with your system.
Inter-ply. Cut flush with outer edge of drip-edge.
Granulated or even smooth Cap-Sheet. I like to run it a bit past the dripedge and fold it down a tad. Maybe an inch.
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:49 PM   #36
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I forgot to mention. If that rafter is much more than 1/2" thick on the end, you'll need a new fascia and all that that entails. I'm trying to keep this down to a new roof, not a complete rebuild. Get a piece of dripedge and scrap wood, to match nailer, rafter end and osb to check and verify appearance before proceding too far!
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Old 06-17-2012, 03:37 PM   #37
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Oh okay, so I need to taper the rafters to 1/2" to avoid making a new fascia, so more like this? 3/4" nailer + 1/2" of rafter hip + 7/16" OSB should be thin enough for the 3" drip edge. It would make my rise more also. I heard if the rise isn't enough code will mandate a rubber roof
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:20 PM   #38
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That makes the thickest part of the hip birdmouth 2 3/16", will that work?
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Old 06-17-2012, 05:05 PM   #39
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That makes the thickest part of the hip birdmouth 2 3/16", will that work?
Yes. It's not a suspended load. The whole thing will bear on the existing roof. None of it will be carrying a load unsupported. You've got the idea now.

On anither note, SBS is supposed to be rated for flat roofs with little to no drainage. 'Supposed to be'.
Depending on where you find the rafters hitting the wall plate att he upper end, you could feasibly go a bit higher if necessary to increase the pitch, but it doesn't sound or look as if that will be necessary.
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:49 PM   #40
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Okay, so here's what I found. Only really 3 spots where the sheathing is no good. The to places where it attaches to the house and the middle of the long otter run. What's should I do about those? Everything that's part of the house seems solid. I know I still need to take up more shingles, I'm guess the old ones underneath them also, til I'm down to bare wood
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Old 06-19-2012, 06:37 PM   #41
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That long rotted piece needs to be replaced. The two smaller ones look as if they'll fall between rafters above and below. If so, they can be ignored. If you're looking to dot all the 'i's', you can repair those too.
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Old 06-19-2012, 09:58 PM   #42
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So should I remove the new and old shingles to 3' above the new hips? Won't taking the old ones out make the new ones sit funny unless they're stacked two deep or something?
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:57 AM   #43
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So should I remove the new and old shingles to 3' above the new hips? Won't taking the old ones out make the new ones sit funny unless they're stacked two deep or something?
Yes. They won't sit funny. Be very sure you have a tight fit where the new sheathing joins the main roof. You don't want a gap there for the roof to sag into. One thing could make them sit funny! You're doing 3 plies. Don't stop them all at the same place! Stagger them somehow.

I don't think we mentioned it, but using 1x8 nailers, over 1x12 sheathing, srew them down. Same with the rafters. An 8cc going through a 1x into another 1x doesn't have much holding power.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:35 AM   #44
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So do I still need to use two nailers next to each other on the perimeter or since I'm leaving the original decking can I just use one?
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:38 AM   #45
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there are a couple of the rafters (there are 16 total) that look like this, not too bad but a little water damage. should i be trying to reenforce them or is it no big deal since there will be new rafters on the new nailers
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