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Old 06-14-2012, 02:44 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by flatroofblues View Post
Also could the yellow outlined boards be smaller than 2x6s?
The angle will determine that. 'Flat' will need larger. 'Birdmouthed' so heel sits on roof sheathing can be 2x6.

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Old 06-14-2012, 02:47 PM   #17
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Cover frame with sheathing board (do I need to bevel their edges where they meet the house-roof and each other?) Yes.

Cover with roofing material. (If I use self adhered modified bit roofing do I still need ISO insulation or can I skip it?) You can skip it, but sheathing must be tight together,

This seems like it will be adding a good amount of weight, how can I know how much is too much? Not an issue.
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:19 PM   #18
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I suppose now I should make sure that I can make all the necessary rafter cuts using a miter saw? Seems like I would need a table saw for proper beveling and possibly for where the main 2x8 hip rafters meet the existing rafters? Is it reasonable to try to pull off the large triangle shapes of sheathing with a circular saw or do I need to do that another way? Any specialty tools I should make sure I have?
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:37 PM   #19
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I guess there should be a way to do the triangles with the table saw?
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:44 PM   #20
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Miter saw may work once you have the angles. Skilsaw is what I mostly use.

What do you mean by triangles? The 'drops'? (Cut off scrap pieces?)
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:47 PM   #21
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To be clear, I was discussing 1x material. You using OSB, or plywood instead? If so, forget the 1x8 perimeter board.
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:25 AM   #22
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The triangle I meant were the triangles of sheathing I would need to cut to run to the edge of the hips, so I guess that would be the opposite of the 'drops'. I had planned on using OSB, is it better to use plywood?
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:46 AM   #23
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Ones about the same as the other for this application.
The miscommunication was on my side since I use wood 99% of the time. Sorry.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:04 AM   #24
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Yeah I think for cost I will have to go with OSB, so then I should plan on the using the 1x8 on the edge attached ON TOP of the rafters and hip butted up against the OSB to make a flush slope, right?

Also do I run the 'nailer' first and then attach the hips and rafters to it rather than the house roof? Or do I cut the rafters to leave room for the 'nailer' to lay flush with them and the slope of the new roof?
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Old 06-15-2012, 03:23 PM   #25
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So I found this awesome free autoCAD software google makes called "sketch up" trying to build my plan in it now. You can even pull building off google earth but it doesn't have my house for that option. If you have it on your computer I can send you the plan and you can explore it yourself if you like, it's a pretty easy and cool program, especially for free. Anyway I'll try using it to make sure I'm on the right page. So the way I've mocked it up here the place I've circled is the same distance into the roof as the other side, would it be better/more structurally sound to put that joint in the middle straight down from the house roofs peak, or does it not really matter? I'm sorry for all the questions, it seems the more I learn the more I have. Again, many thanks for all the info, I'd be lost otherwise
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Old 06-15-2012, 03:25 PM   #26
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I said earlier to forget the nailer. That's for use with ISO when using EPDM. It makes a nailer for the dripedge.
Just run the OSB 1/2"-3/4" past the fascia. That will be your surface for SBS roof material.
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Old 06-15-2012, 03:31 PM   #27
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"I've circled is the same distance into the roof as the other side, would it be better/more structurally sound to put that joint in the middle straight down from the house roofs peak, or does it not really matter?"
The nailer will be making a wide foot. That location, 1' up the rafter should be right over the outer support wall so that some or all of the pressure will be transferred directly to the bearing wall below, not in an unsupported portion of the roof.
Of course, that's an assumption. You have to open things up and adjust as necessary to the reality of what you find.
You want to be over the rafters, over the place they attach to the wall plate, on top of the bearing wall.
BTW, I have SketchupPro and still don't know how to use it.
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Old 06-15-2012, 03:39 PM   #28
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I sent you a PM.
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Old 06-15-2012, 04:03 PM   #29
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I tried to PM reply but it said I can't without having posted 20 things? I'm off to work now but I'll call tomorrow if that's okay?
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Old 06-15-2012, 04:09 PM   #30
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Got them. We're good to go.

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