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Old 06-13-2012, 11:16 AM   #1
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Attached Carport Problems


So I have this attached carport that was built long before I bought my house in a way that is not great. It's flat with a rubber roof that has begun to sag from snow load and is leaking through. It has standing water and because of the sag and the fact that they used some kind of soft fibrous material between the decking of the roof and the rubber, it has a lip on the edge preventing water from being able to escape. I'm in a real jam because this is something that has to get fixed this summer and I'm super strapped for cash. I've had some people look at it, friends, family, contractors and gotten a few Ideas but I could use some more suggestions.
One person said the cheapest thing would be a silver roof waterproofing liquid. I worry that would still leave water standing and because the rubber was pulled tight originally to create a pitch, there are spots where it doesn't sit against the roof beneath.
I thought it would be best to try to replace the roof by removing the rubber and replacing or maybe removing all the decking, then building it up just to get a little pitch for runoff. Decking that and laying some roll on roofing. Because of all the angles though it seems a bit tricky. Here are some photos, any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks.

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Old 06-13-2012, 11:29 AM   #2
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Building it up so it's highest point is 1 foot higher and has it's own hip in line witht he existing hip would work fine.
Gently remove 4-5 courses of shingles, and taper in some new rafters, then some sheathing boards, cover with 1" ISO insulation then glue down .060 reinforced EPDM,rubber, and reinstall the shingles and you'll be good for another 20 years or so.
You could also use SBS self adhered modified bit roofing, (nailable base, inter-ply, and cap sheet) and be good for another 10 years.
I have reactions to the EPDM glue, so I take a benedryl before I start glueing.

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Old 06-13-2012, 11:31 AM   #3
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I forgot. I use 3/4" 1x8 around the perimeter so I have a good nailable board for the drip edge and by time I use the cover tape, the edge is even with the 1" iso and there is no hump for the water to catch on.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:38 AM   #4
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I also add a small piece of EPDM at the joint to help protect the roof itself from ice or anything else sliding down the shingles.
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:02 PM   #5
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First of all, thanks so much for the response. I think I follow, the 1' higher would be where it attaches to the house. Could I get by without the ISO insulation maybe? I'm trying to make it all happen for around 1K, I know that's not very much when it comes to this kind of thing. Here's a quick mock up of what I was kind of thinking, is this what you meant having the hip line run with the house's? I'm wondering how to cut the framing also, it seem like it would be easiest to have the boards of the frame come to a point at the edge of the roof where the water runs into the gutters. Also since they have to span the full 14+' would I need a way to join two boards together or have a small support where the would both be attached? They would have a triangle shape from the side between the gutters and the roofing on the 3/4" 1x8 of the 14' side and that small side where it meets the house again. I'm really new to all this so please bear with me, thanks.
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:06 PM   #6
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I was thinking if they had a support where the two boards spanning the 14' meet, it could help compensate for the fact the roof isn't perfectly flat anymore. They could be different sizes to adjust for the specific spot. Of course this is hoping that the board under the existing rubber and insulation material is useable.
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:42 PM   #7
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14' span calls for 2x6 rafters. You want them to taper to zero about an inch or so from the outer edge. Find the rafters underneath and run the new ones over top of those. NOT IN BETWEEN the existing rafters.
To save even more money, and I can't properly explain this, taper the rafters so the outer ones cause the roof to flow downwards along the shingle area. You'll be up 1 foot at the hip, and almost none as you reach the gutter on both sides.
Failure to do so will cause you have two new gables that need to be trimmed out, one at each end of the flat roof.
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Old 06-13-2012, 03:03 PM   #8
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Or put another, maybe better way, slope it all directions so water is flowing to all the gutter areas on the 3 sides. Any better?
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Old 06-13-2012, 03:11 PM   #9
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Something like this. Actual layout can be changed, of course! My drawing sucks!
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Old 06-14-2012, 10:08 AM   #10
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That is actually just like the first drawings I did on paper for the roof! Haha. Okay, so I stretched the picture flat and drew this up with the rafters spaced about 2" apart. Obviously they will just have to go on top of wherever the old ones are like you said. (I'm assuming all these boards will have to be treated 2x6? I think I can get 16' 2x6s so they can all be one piece.)

So I peel the shingles up. (All the way to the sheathing board or just to the underlying material?)

Peel off the rubber and the fibrous stuff between it and the sheathing board over the carport (possibly removing the sheathing board if it had water damage? or should I take it off either way to loose the weight?)

Lay the 3/4" 1x8 (purple) around the perimeter. (depending on what I find under the rubber and existing drip edge, is it possible this won't be necessary?)

Run the hips (red outline), cutting them to stop and inch from the edge of the carport and attaching them directly to the existing hip and sheathing board. Also run the yellow outline (not sure the proper name) along the contour of the house roof to be able to attach sheathing board to it. (Is there a trick to getting all these angles right?)

Run rafters (blue outline) to about the same one inch from the carport roof edge.

Cover frame with sheathing board (do I need to bevel their edges where they meet the house-roof and each other?)

Cover with roofing material. (If I use self adhered modified bit roofing do I still need ISO insulation or can I skip it?)

This seems like it will be adding a good amount of weight, how can I know how much is too much?


Looks like we have a run of sunny weather for about a week so I'm going to start on Saturday. Tear up the rubber and see what I get. I'll post pictures of what's underneath if it get's weird. Thanks you so much, I know I have a lot of questions. I really appreciate the help, I've been really dreading this and I'm starting to feel more confident that I can do this myself.
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Old 06-14-2012, 10:16 AM   #11
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Also could the yellow outlined boards be smaller than 2x6s?
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:26 PM   #12
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1. No need for treated lumber. No water should ever get there.

2. All the way to wood. The EPDM glue will react with any felt. Above the 'break', the EPDM will be your new felt.

3. I'd peel it off to eleminate any moisture issues. Only replace bad wood around the perimeter. Weight should be an issue. All weight will be on the ends of the rafters, on the outer rim, and close to the bearing wall of the house.

4. That goes on after the rafters. I like to run it 1/2" to 3/4" past the fascia to create a nice gap between the drip-edge and the gutter rear. Makes any future work or repairs much easier. If you're using 1" ISO, you can space the sheathing boards 1-2" throughout, but it must be tight at the main roof.

More to come.
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinner666 View Post
4. That goes on after the rafters. I like to run it 1/2" to 3/4" past the fascia to create a nice gap between the drip-edge and the gutter rear. Makes any future work or repairs much easier. If you're using 1" ISO, you can space the sheathing boards 1-2" throughout, but it must be tight at the main roof.
Which "that" do you mean, the 3/4" 1x8 (purple)?

Also I'm assuming you meant "Weight should(n't) be an issue", I'm hoping anyway lol
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:41 PM   #14
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5. Run the hips (red outline), cutting them to stop and inch from the edge of the carport and attaching them directly to the existing hip and sheathing board. Also run the yellow outline (not sure the proper name) along the contour of the house roof to be able to attach sheathing board to it. (Is there a trick to getting all these angles right?)

I've been rethinking that 1" deal. The EPDM dripedge has a 3" face. Run the rafters all the way out to the edge, but before cutting them, try to determine whether you think a 'zero' point will work as well as maybe 1" thick on the ends. The yellow line is a 'nailer'. Trial and error on the angles.
The 2 longer hip rafters should be 2x8 as they will be carrying a larger load.
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatroofblues View Post
Which "that" do you mean, the 3/4" 1x8 (purple)?

Also I'm assuming you meant "Weight should(n't) be an issue", I'm hoping anyway lol
Yes to both. typing with one hand while holding dog for wife. Dog not happy.

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