Attach gutter to "crown molding" or remove?
I have a shingled low slope roof in the front of my house. It has an old wood gutter that is roofed over - it matches the crown molding I have elsewhere. Photo enclosed.
I think I want a working gutter, because I have a window with rotting trim.
Perhaps depending on the downpour, water is slamming off the canopy over the front door into the window (although canopy does have a diverter - which I have seen directs the water to the edge away from the house).
Since I am having the low slope replaced with rubber (section gets ice dams), I have to decide do I want to keep the roofed over gutter.
I know which is cheaper, but which is better/will look better?
To attach an aluminum gutter to the existing wood gutter or remove the wood gutter?
I got prices from 2 contractors in the Boston area for a new gutter & downspout:
1.* Keep old gutter: $240 - will this look odd, is it an OK idea, is there a good way to do it?
2.** Remove old gutter & replace fascia with Trex $1300.
*1st roofer guarantees work 5 years (in biz 17 years, BBB leak complaint on young roof)
**2nd roofer guarantees work 25 years (in biz 9 years, no BBB complaints).
The 5 and the 25 and the 9 make me nervous.
Where is this window that's rotting?
First thing I noticed is no one took the time to build out the window trim before installing the siding.
That one thing can allow water to get in behind the J moulding.
RXB, I would remove the crown molding so that gutter can be installed flat to the fascia. The roof deck/substrate may need to be cut back a few inches, but if the roof is being replaced now would be the time. I would also suggest a self flashing type gutter such as: http://www.gutterexperts.com/box-commercial-gutters.htm
You can make a traditional K style gutter work, but it requires more prep work. In either case, I would first wrap the roof membrane over the fascia edge. This prevents any back up from getting inside the overhang. Then mount the gutter and strip in. In of the case of the K style gutter, a separate gutter flashing will need to be installed. But it is critical, in my opinion, that the low slope membrane be wrapped over the fascia and the gutter sit on it. I say this because of the numerous numerous problems I see when the edge is not properly detailed, especially when it's not properly detailed with the use of a K style gutter.
5 year workmanship guarantee is pretty typical for residential roofing/gutter. We will guarantee our roofs for 10, if the customer doesn't want to purchase the upgraded 15. And we guarantee our gutters for 6 years. The reason we do not guarantee our gutters for longer is because they are heavily dependant on maintenance, keeping them clean.
9 years in business makes you nervous?!?! He's already been in business longer than 85% of the people who start businesses. 5 years is considered the hump. 85% of businesses are out of business within the first 5 years. If they've been in business 9 years with no complaints (BBB only keeps complaints on file for 3 years) I would think they are qualified to do the work, assuming those 9 years in business have all been roofing. FWIW I started my roofing company in 2003, you can do the math.
Also ask about manufacturer certifications. Just because someone is certified doesn't make them great, but does help (depending on the manufacturer and the certification).
Don't ever make your decision based on price. Quality of material and scope of work will dictate price. http://www.reliableamerican.us/artic...contractor.htm
The problem window is cutoff & bottom right corner of picture to right of rotting canopy trim.
The siding that you see is Aluminum.
What needs to be done to the window's trim, J-channel to prevent water getting in? This may be THE problem, in which case maybe I don't need the gutter???. Some of the roofers I contacted do siding do, so they could handle it I guess.
I said I was nervous about the roofer in biz 9 years because the FAQ on this website says look for guys in biz 10 years. I also thought a workmanship warranty of 25 was unrealistic & thus a gimmick.
Thanks so much for speedy replies!
Well if he's been in business for 9 or 10 years that's an Oops! Which one is it? Is it possible the web designer screwed up or perhaps maybe they've been in business 10 years but incorporated 9? Where did you find the information that they have been in business for 9 years vs the website stating 10?
Like I said in my previous post the 25 year workmanship warranty is offered by the manufacturer. Who is standing behind his workmanship warranty/guarantee? ALL warranties are a gimick. Actually read the warranty document. Some shingle manufacturers offer a life time warranty on their product, but when you read the exclusions it's nothing short of a comedy. As I said I'll stand behind one of my roofs for 10 years if I replace the whole entire thing including flashings. However I do have some exclusions such as animal damage. I provide a copy of my guarantee with each and every proposal.
Having said that; The warranty won't keep the water out. The intent by the issuer of the warranty, either contractor or manufacturer, is more important than anything else. Reputation is of the utmost importance when determining if the company will actually honor their warranty or not.
Not there to really look at it but from what it looks like it's the shingle moulding that's rotting on that small roof.
Not enough shingle over hang and no drip cap.
The right way to have resided the home would have been to build out the window trim first. Which means to simply add another layer of 1 X over what was there and add to the sill, then wrap the trim with coil stock.
There also was suppost to be a strip of Z moulding added over all windows and doors.
Then it gets sided.
What it looks like you have now is funnels around all the windows for water to get in.
That window on the right shuld never have rotted since it has such a big over hang over it unless there's something very wrong.
I see sills rotted out all the time because of a simple miss step. People have replacement windows installed then later on have the house resided and trim wraped. Now that the windows in place there's good way to run the coil stock up under the windows so they just leave an exposed seam where the two meet. Water runs down the window and under the coil stock.
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