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Old 07-15-2012, 11:15 PM   #16
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


Man I didn't even catch that. Are you trying to put them inbetween with hangers, or sit on top of walls and beam. Pleas say on top.

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Old 07-15-2012, 11:41 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by CopperClad View Post
Odd design.. Were you trying to match something on the property building it like that? But oh well.. Are you trying to set your rafters on top of the walls/beam or are you trying to cut them in between? I read a few different conflicting things..
There were a variety of concerns when we decided on design. First, of course, would be incorporation into neighborhood aesthetic; 1. all one story homes with minimum slope to roof. if you look at picture neighbor's shed is somewhat similar. 2. she converted her garage into an in-law while had minimum space for building in backyard--no car access (15x15) but needed 3. considerable storage space and a small workspace. 4. She also has a very large motorcycle she will ride in through double doors at front of space taking up considerable storage space. The larger front of the shed allows for greater storage while still looking similar to neighborhood styles.

As for the beams, I'm at a position where nothing you see is nailed in (the beam set up). I can go either way. I'm not sure which would be better for a novice in my position. Flush with the beam with hangers or on top of beam? If I go flush with the walls of the building, which would be better? If I go with eaves (considering 6" to three side and 1' to front over door), would rafters on top of beam be better?

Thanks guys for all the info.
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:15 AM   #18
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


Yes. You want the rafters to sit on top of the walls/beams. It will be much easier for you to make an overhang that way, and you won't have to worry about trimming the top of the simpson bucket. So you said you have 2x6's for the roof? As long as you space them 16''OC you should be fine. Are you going to be sheathing the outside of the walls? And with your 4x6 roof beam hangers on the sides that meets the walls, how many nails go into them? and how long of a nail did you use? Just trying to make sure you're safe up there is all. Looking good. Looks like ya had some good concrete guys out there
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Old 07-16-2012, 11:25 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by CopperClad View Post
Yes. You want the rafters to sit on top of the walls/beams. It will be much easier for you to make an overhang that way, and you won't have to worry about trimming the top of the simpson bucket. So you said you have 2x6's for the roof? As long as you space them 16''OC you should be fine. Are you going to be sheathing the outside of the walls? And with your 4x6 roof beam hangers on the sides that meets the walls, how many nails go into them? and how long of a nail did you use? Just trying to make sure you're safe up there is all. Looking good. Looks like ya had some good concrete guys out there
OK. Yes I have 2x6's for roof. I planned on spacing them 16'OC. What is the best method of attachment to beam when on top? Right now I haven't nailed in beam hangers just a couple to of screws to judge level and roof plan. I have intended to use 16d framing nails though. Were using this concrete fiber board for the exterior-HardyPanel. Thanks Copper!
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Old 07-16-2012, 11:53 AM   #20
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Hardee panel can not be installed that close to grade. It will just fall apart that the bottom.
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:16 PM   #21
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


I can't help myself. Since there is no structural need for that post and beam in the center of the structure, what is it for?
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:19 PM   #22
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And, one other question. If it's supposed to be a shed roof, why the same lenght suds all the way around? The high side should have been done with 10' studs, low side with 8' and the two ends cut to fill in the rakes. Just curious.
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:30 PM   #23
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Hardee panel can not be installed that close to grade. It will just fall apart that the bottom.
can't be installed within 6" of grade. was thinkin of some sort of 1x6 vinyl lumber or cedar skirt with drip cap
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:31 PM   #24
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And, one other question. If it's supposed to be a shed roof, why the same lenght suds all the way around? The high side should have been done with 10' studs, low side with 8' and the two ends cut to fill in the rakes. Just curious.
high side was done with 10', low side with 8'???
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:39 PM   #25
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There is a structural need for it technically, it very well could have been full span 2x10 rafters The way he is building it is fine. Nothing is overspanned with him putting that beam there and post midspan. You must have looked at the pictures wrong because the walls are definitely built correctly for a shed roof. The best attachment for you rafter to beam is to set them on top. The front rafter should overlap the beam a little towards the back side, and then the back rafters should overlap the beam a little towards the front side, and then nail the 2 sets of rafters together with 3'' 16D nails. You should also solid block in between each of the rafters on top of the beams, that way when you sheet the roof, you will nail into the rafters and the solid blocking helping your walls stay together. At the wall side you will set the rafters on top of the wall(front and back) and put what they call solid bird blocking. This will let your roof breathe and depending on if you are sheeting the walls(which I believe you should do) or not you will want to keep the block flush with the sheeting to give yourself a smooth transition with the siding. You will then need to nail a simpson tie plate called H2.5 or H1 from the top plates of your wall to your rafter. Any confusion with any of this ask first please. You have a good start going here, keep up the good work !
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:53 PM   #26
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high side was done with 10', low side with 8'???
My bad. It looked as if all 4 walls were the same height.
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:55 PM   #27
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OK. I was thinking I read it was 15' by 15'. We would span 'ceiling joists' level, but have one wall taller than the other for a simple shed roof. I must have looked at it wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CopperClad View Post
There is a structural need for it technically, it very well could have been full span 2x10 rafters The way he is building it is fine. Nothing is overspanned with him putting that beam there and post midspan. You must have looked at the pictures wrong because the walls are definitely built correctly for a shed roof. The best attachment for you rafter to beam is to set them on top. The front rafter should overlap the beam a little towards the back side, and then the back rafters should overlap the beam a little towards the front side, and then nail the 2 sets of rafters together with 3'' 16D nails. You should also solid block in between each of the rafters on top of the beams, that way when you sheet the roof, you will nail into the rafters and the solid blocking helping your walls stay together. At the wall side you will set the rafters on top of the wall(front and back) and put what they call solid bird blocking. This will let your roof breathe and depending on if you are sheeting the walls(which I believe you should do) or not you will want to keep the block flush with the sheeting to give yourself a smooth transition with the siding. You will then need to nail a simpson tie plate called H2.5 or H1 from the top plates of your wall to your rafter. Any confusion with any of this ask first please. You have a good start going here, keep up the good work !
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Old 07-17-2012, 01:03 AM   #28
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


Thanks guys, started rafter's today will send pics tomorrow as phone ran out of power by end of day.
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:32 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CopperClad View Post
There is a structural need for it technically, it very well could have been full span 2x10 rafters The way he is building it is fine. Nothing is overspanned with him putting that beam there and post midspan. You must have looked at the pictures wrong because the walls are definitely built correctly for a shed roof. The best attachment for you rafter to beam is to set them on top. The front rafter should overlap the beam a little towards the back side, and then the back rafters should overlap the beam a little towards the front side, and then nail the 2 sets of rafters together with 3'' 16D nails. You should also solid block in between each of the rafters on top of the beams, that way when you sheet the roof, you will nail into the rafters and the solid blocking helping your walls stay together. At the wall side you will set the rafters on top of the wall(front and back) and put what they call solid bird blocking. This will let your roof breathe and depending on if you are sheeting the walls(which I believe you should do) or not you will want to keep the block flush with the sheeting to give yourself a smooth transition with the siding. You will then need to nail a simpson tie plate called H2.5 or H1 from the top plates of your wall to your rafter. Any confusion with any of this ask first please. You have a good start going here, keep up the good work !
Here's latest pics. I'm not sure how to attach rafter right above top plate in second picture. Tomorrow solid blocking. Any advice on placement of blocking? I haven't nailed anything in so as to correct any mistakes. Thanks in advance.
Attached Thumbnails
Aspiring Screw Up..Help!-img00394-20120717-1431.jpg   Aspiring Screw Up..Help!-img00399-20120717-1458.jpg   Aspiring Screw Up..Help!-img00402-20120717-1517.jpg   Aspiring Screw Up..Help!-img00406-20120717-1524.jpg  

Last edited by lionscourt; 07-17-2012 at 10:37 PM. Reason: pictures
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:13 PM   #30
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ugh..

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