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Old 07-15-2012, 12:42 AM   #1
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


Hi,
I'm building this shed for my aunt in her back yard. The 4x6 beam across the middle is flush with the top plates but the Simpson beam tie on top of central post sits up higher than beam--and top plates. How do i resolve this issue?

Do I raise the rafters higher than the top plates by 3 to 4 inches and miter the ends of the 2x6 rafters that i planned on connecting by 2x6hangers to beam?


The roof is a simple lean-to roof (not connected to adjacent structure though). It descends from 10ft to 8ft over 15.5ft. My roofer guy quit yesterday and the project must go on.

Please check pictures and any suggestions are welcome. I'm taking my time in the hope that i can do it right first time.

My aunt has suggested no overhang--just gutters at 8 found end to deal with runoff.
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Old 07-15-2012, 01:22 AM   #2
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


Use one of these instead of what your trying to use.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/co.../ot-ol_apg.asp

No over hang I feel is a really bad idea.
It will shorten the life of the siding,

I sure hope you sealed under those bottom plates, there's going to be two issues your going to be dealing with by building that shed on a slab like that, one is water getting in under the bottom plates, and the sheathing or siding rotting out at the bottom of the wall.
Sheathing, or T-111 if that's what the plan is for siding needed to be 6" from grade.
One way around it is to use 1 X 6 vinyl lumber around the base of the wall, Z molding then the siding.

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Old 07-15-2012, 02:23 AM   #3
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


I hope you never get rain on that slab.

Could you cut it down with a grinder? say 1/8" lower then the top of the beam.
That beam lands above the window? Is the header strong enough?
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:52 AM   #4
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


Quote:
Originally Posted by mae-ling View Post
I hope you never get rain on that slab.

Could you cut it down with a grinder? say 1/8" lower then the top of the beam.
That beam lands above the window? Is the header strong enough?
I reinforced the window with 4x4's at header and top of cripple. I thought of that with grinder but metal looks really thick. ????
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:58 AM   #5
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Use one of these instead of what your trying to use.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/co.../ot-ol_apg.asp

No over hang I feel is a really bad idea.
It will shorten the life of the siding,

I sure hope you sealed under those bottom plates, there's going to be two issues your going to be dealing with by building that shed on a slab like that, one is water getting in under the bottom plates, and the sheathing or siding rotting out at the bottom of the wall.
Sheathing, or T-111 if that's what the plan is for siding needed to be 6" from grade.
One way around it is to use 1 X 6 vinyl lumber around the base of the wall, Z molding then the siding.


1. Yes I did seal under the bottom plates and plan on using some kind of flashing wall to ground (what kind?). The siding is some kind of Hardywood 4 x 8 panels. Was pushing her for concrete siding. Thanks for good suggestion about vinyl lumber.
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:00 AM   #6
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Use one of these instead of what your trying to use.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/co.../ot-ol_apg.asp

No over hang I feel is a really bad idea.
It will shorten the life of the siding,

I sure hope you sealed under those bottom plates, there's going to be two issues your going to be dealing with by building that shed on a slab like that, one is water getting in under the bottom plates, and the sheathing or siding rotting out at the bottom of the wall.
Sheathing, or T-111 if that's what the plan is for siding needed to be 6" from grade.
One way around it is to use 1 X 6 vinyl lumber around the base of the wall, Z molding then the siding.
forgot to mention that the column runs up to two beams that meet in the middle. Is that simpson tie you suggested for one continuous beam or would it work for two as well.
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:05 AM   #7
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


4 X 4's have little side load strength. Even that 4 X 6 your trying to use for a beam would never fly around here for that use for that span.
They tend to check, twist and sag over time.
Ganged up 2X's, LVL's or glue lams would have been much better.

The header of the window should have had doubled up 2 X 4's for the cripples, at least a doubled up 2 X 6 with 1/2 OSB or plywood between them, double up jacks around the window and below it so the load was transfured down to the slab.
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Old 07-15-2012, 12:11 PM   #8
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


On looking more I realize you need a bigger beam.
Also both ends would be best supported with posts (multiple 2x4) right to the ground. Can you move the window location?
Just cut your center post shorter.
If you can't move the window go with doubled up 2x10 with 1/2" plywood in-between. May be overkill but that is a lot of weight resting there.
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Old 07-15-2012, 02:13 PM   #9
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


I was just wondering why you have that post getting in the way of everything in the first place. A gluelam or 10" sandwich beam resting on two posts in the walls would be more than adequate wouldn't it?
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:15 PM   #10
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No form of siding with wood fibers is rated for direct grade contact.
Not even Hardee plank can be installed that close to grade. It needs to be at least 4" above grade.

There's not going to be anyway to keep water from coming in under the door.
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Old 07-15-2012, 09:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
No form of siding with wood fibers is rated for direct grade contact.
Not even Hardee plank can be installed that close to grade. It needs to be at least 4" above grade.

There's not going to be anyway to keep water from coming in under the door.
Thanks for suggestion but water generally doesn't run up hill. To come in under the door it would have to run up hill. The slab has a tiny slope downhill towards the front of the shed.
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Old 07-15-2012, 09:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNBroken View Post
I was just wondering why you have that post getting in the way of everything in the first place. A gluelam or 10" sandwich beam resting on two posts in the walls would be more than adequate wouldn't it?
Wasn't sure that a beam going spanning the entire middle and connected above window would be adequate over the long run. I did reinforce both walls at the beam--on the far side with a 4x4 going straight down and the opposite wall with a 4x4 header and another 4x4 at the top of the cripple. I will go back and double my 2x4's that span the cripple to header if necessary.
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:07 PM   #13
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Totally depends on the load on the roof. How much snow you get?
That wdw is still a weak point.
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:44 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mae-ling View Post
Totally depends on the load on the roof. How much snow you get?
That wdw is still a weak point.
we get NO snow and barely any rain....Southern California
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:56 PM   #15
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Aspiring Screw Up..Help!


Odd design.. Were you trying to match something on the property building it like that? But oh well.. Are you trying to set your rafters on top of the walls/beam or are you trying to cut them in between? I read a few different conflicting things..

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