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jpc 08-05-2012 07:46 AM

another ventilation thread
5 Attachment(s)
yesterday when i was in my attic, the thermostate was at the top at 130 degree's, Starting with the pic showing my garage, it has a bedroom above it. And like every other bonus room,, when its cold its cold, when its hot its hot. In the picture you see the 3 vents on the roof a few feet down from the peak of the roof. Upstairs when I go thru my little doors into the eave's I have insulation blocking off the soffit opening on the edge and not sure if there are any vents there to begin with, then between the bedroom ceiling and the roof deck the space is seperated by the height of the rafter which are 2x6 and batt insulation is tucked in tightly there with no space at all for venting from the soffit, this is on both side's. The knee wall is insulated with batt insulation with kraft paper to the inside of the cavity against drywall, I know the floor/ceiling of garage is insulated but im not sure how much, so basically behind the kneewall the eave on exterior side is a insulated cavity that is super hot or extremely freezing depending on the time of year. What to do with that side?
Next, main part of house..... front show's overhang and, again unsure of how much soffit vents there are, but we have no ridge vent, only exhaust vent's here are on the roof deck facing the back yard about 2 feet down from peak of roof, and on that side of house, there is no overhang, so Im sure no vent's, What direction do I need to go to get all of this straight? Sorry for being so long winded and I hope I made sence. If I forgot a detail let me know, and I appreciate all feed back and your time.
By the way, I live in chesapeake virginia if that helps

joecaption 08-05-2012 08:13 AM

I just hate to see it when a builder is so lazy they do not bother with building the home with over hangs all the way around the house.
As I see it without being able to install soffit vents almost any venting type of venting now will do little good.
Those vents they did install are doing little good and really only venting the area in the bay there installed over in a circle.
A ridge vent still would be better then what you have now.
A power gable vent would do nothing but create a negitive pressure and suck the conditioned air from the home.
Anyway to look up in those rafter bays from behind the knee wall to see if there are at least foam baffles installed before the insulation went in.
One other option is you can remove the drywall and have a company come in a spray foam it.

What condition is the roof in? There is a way to keep it cooler but it's done from on top of the roof and not cheap. Look up SIP roof panels. It's done all the time over cathedral ceiling.

Some things I've done in the past is install house wrap to the back side of the kneewalls over the insulation to stop outside air flow.
Installing 1" foam to the other side before the sheetrock goes up. Air sealing the the sheetrock along the bottom and outside edges with drywall adhesive. It seemed to make a big differance.

Windows on Wash 08-05-2012 08:49 AM


Those vaulted sections will always be problematic.

You are going to need to verify the soffits from inside the attic or pull down some sections.

If they are available, start opening them up. Once you open them up, you can open up more exhaust.

In the meantime, air seal and insulate and you will help mitigate those extreme temps.

jpc 08-05-2012 10:35 AM

hey JoeCaption" Yea I do go in and out of the eaves quite a bit, Ive tried to check for baffles 2 other times, and not wanting to shred the insulation up on the roofing nails until I had a plan, I did it vary carefully, and I do not think there is any up there, plus its the same type of insulation poking up out of that soffit area out near the edge, In the pic of my garage from the exterior wall side front, the top section of shingles is slightly discolored, but what you cant see in the pic,. is the bottom couple of rows of shingles is the same way, giving a pretty close outline of the eave space I have behind my kneewalls, what do you make of that?,,,I just had that roof done about a year and a half ago, and unfortunatly for me is that I had no idea of what I needed or wanted, so here we are today.
Window's on Wash", Yes they are very problematic, As far as checking the soffit, after I finish this responce Im going to get a bite to eat then Im going to try and check it out from the outside, Ill get right back to ya'll when I got the yea or nah, Thanks alot you guys

jpc 08-05-2012 10:40 AM

hey guys I described that wrong, the discolored area is pretty close to the outline of where the top of the kneewall and insulation mee the rafters and roof deack and the top of that discoloration line is close to where my interior roof stops,sorry about htat

Windows on Wash 08-05-2012 11:53 AM

The discoloration is a result of the thermal bridging

jpc 08-05-2012 10:09 PM

1 Attachment(s)
ok sorry for taking so long, These small perforated kinda panels are whats on the underside of my eave. I did some tugging and pulling and found 4 holes along the front side of my house roughly 7-8 feet apart, none of them lined up with a exhaust vent. as far as in the same rafter bay, Now on the side of garage, Has the same perforated panels but not a single hole to vent from. So now I see how to take off and re-instal these perforated panel's, where do we go from here? with these perforated panels, could i take them down, and drill and cut openings needed and then replace the perforated panels, with out having to buy anything else?

Windows on Wash 08-06-2012 07:06 AM

Those are your vinyl soffit panels (so we are all on the same terminology). The spaces behind them should be open (ideally the full width of the roof).

jpc 08-06-2012 10:19 AM

small amount of Im gonna go with what you said and get all my intake opened up in one shot and then attack the exhaust end of it when I get to that point. On the backside of house where there is no overhang, what are my options there?
So just to recap.. and make sure im on the right path:
1. Temporarily remove vinyl soffet panel's, cut out section's as wide as
allowable and lengthwise leaving fastening section for the vinyl.
?. should I put some sort of screen between house and vinyl?
re-instal vinyl.
2.remove bat insulation blocking soffit at edge of eave
3. Knee wall between ceiling and roof..Try to compress bat insulation down to
slide a baffle or something creating venting space???
hoping that works, but if it does not.. what are my option's with taking
down the drywall being the last resort due to it being a used bedroom. I know this will be the pain in the a$$ part of all this,
All of ya'lls input is so much appreciated, thank you. Im going to start knocking out the soffit issue's today after I get off work.

jpc 12-21-2012 10:48 PM

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Hey there everyone, not sure if this is the correct place, but didnt know where to post this being its tied to the work in the original post, and it contains pretty much all the background info leading up to this , so didnt want to post a new threat. Last couple weeks been spending a few hours here and there in the evenings tinkering in the attic behind the knee walls. tonight ran the circ saw along floor using the back of knee wall as a straightedge to pull the ply decking up to get a peek at the condition of insulation below the upstairs bedroom floor and the drywall ceiling of garage, and to eventualy cut and fit rigid foam blocking in between floor beams under the kneewall, but as soon as I popped the ply up first thing that grabbed my attention was how the exterior wall 2x4 studs where notched to support the floor assemble, Is the normal, it just doesnt seem right in my opinion, thats the first pic showing this detail. The camera was held side ways to get a wider look, onthe right is the drywall ceiling to the garage below, at the bottom of the pic you can see the notched 2x4s exterior wall, then right about that you can see the I-beam's which is my bedroom floors Ibeams sitting on the band which is resting that the notch, any insight or thought's is very much appreciated

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