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Old 04-13-2010, 08:55 AM   #16
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Another Flat roof tear off and replace post


Hi Aaron,
Yes you are probably correct, I am not sure what the current roofing is called. The roofing is a rolled gravel type of material. I swept a ton of it off. It has been painted silver by a roofer who said it will protect it longer. Guess what, he painted it silver last summer, now it has a ton of cracks and leaking.

I will definitely not reuse the counter flashing. The pictures don't show it, but it is heavily damaged, has rot holes in it, and I don't want to take chances with it. I am going to replace it with copper 100%.

When I cut out the holes for the suntunnels, the roofing looked to be about 1" thick. I tried to count the layers, and it seemed to be about 7. I am not sure if I counted correctly, but it looked like too many layers. The hole was 14" diameter, I didn't weigh it, but it felt massive. I cannot even guess how heavy it was, as that was nearly 3 years ago.

You can see I put down the torch roofing around the suntunnels and all other protrusions. At the time I had a bad feeling about putting another layer of roofing throughout, due to my suspicion of already having too many layers, I think I was right. Those sections with the torch roofing are the only ones that do not have any cracking, bubbling, or any visible damage.

I can grind out and re-point the walls no problem. I am also thinking of putting a strip of BUR between the wall caps and the counter flashing, do you think that is a good or bad idea?

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Old 04-13-2010, 07:12 PM   #17
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Another Flat roof tear off and replace post


If you're going to re-point the walls properly, then there should be no need for a membrane at that point.

A through-wall flashing may be a good idea, though.
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:46 AM   #18
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If you're going to re-point the walls properly, then there should be no need for a membrane at that point.

A through-wall flashing may be a good idea, though.
Thats good too.

Do you see that skylight by the roof entrance? I plan on replacing that, and making a proper roof access door as well (something that will just open on hinges, not something I have to move to the side every time). Do you think it is a good idea to get something that is curb mounted? Or should I replace with something similar?

Thanks again. Almost done with the planning stage. Planning to get this started sometime May 19th.
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Old 04-14-2010, 10:02 PM   #19
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There are curb mounted hatch cover for this purpose that swing upwards and lock open/closed.

They may seem a bit pricey, but IMO worth every penny. Some even come with safety rails designed so that it is much more difficult to accidentally fall in.
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:40 AM   #20
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There are curb mounted hatch cover for this purpose that swing upwards and lock open/closed.

They may seem a bit pricey, but IMO worth every penny. Some even come with safety rails designed so that it is much more difficult to accidentally fall in.
That is exactly what I am looking for. The one I currently have is BS. Even with going up on the roof a couple of times a year, I don't like that I have to put that cover on the roofing, and then drag it back to close it. Plus for some reason it weighs a ton.

Do you know of a brand that I should look for? I know of Velox and thats pretty much it. Do you think they carry what I need, and would I be able to get a custom size? Thanks again.
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Old 04-15-2010, 11:11 AM   #21
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http://www.bluewater-mfg.com/App_Roof-Hatch.htm
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:04 PM   #22
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Thank you very much.
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:28 AM   #23
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Hi guys. Was at the roofing supply this weekend.
Ordered cant strips, GAF base sheet, Firestone top sheet, copper counterflashing, primer, nails, flashing cement, and silver paint.

The owner suggested I get insulation panels under the base sheet. Should I consider this? I have insulation between beams on the inside of the house. It could be a good idea as far as leveling out any missperfections on the decking once I tear off the old roofing.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:33 PM   #24
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If you have a space between the celing and roof deck, then insulation would most likely be a waste of money. Cover board would do the same thing for deck preparation as insulation boards and at a fraction of the cost.
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Old 05-04-2010, 10:47 AM   #25
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If you have a space between the celing and roof deck, then insulation would most likely be a waste of money. Cover board would do the same thing for deck preparation as insulation boards and at a fraction of the cost.
Hi Aaron,
Thanks for the reply.
Inside the house, I have the roof deck, right under it is Bat Insulation, under that are the ceiling joists, under that is sheetrock. Bat insulation is against the roof deck, about an 1-2" between insulation and roof deck.

I am going to upload pictures of this during the construction phase. I hope it will show this for better understanding.

Last edited by slickgt1; 05-04-2010 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 05-04-2010, 11:02 AM   #26
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Ok, insulation between roof joists. You can see the metal studs for the sheetrock. In this area, the space between the roof joists and ceiling is big, about a foot. That gets less as you go toward center of the house. I am not sure if this is what you are talking about.

You can also see the roof thickness in this picture under the skylight curb.



So should I do insulation panels on the roof, or just cover board? Thanks again, you've been great help.
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Old 05-05-2010, 09:35 AM   #27
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TTT, Thanks.

Oh forgot to add. There is spray foam insulation between all the metal, ceiling and walls. Don't have a picture of that. Pictures were taken for locations of wires and pipes, once the insulation was sprayed, everything is white. Sorry.


Last edited by slickgt1; 05-05-2010 at 10:06 AM.
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