2009 Roof Estimate
I reroofed my ranch home (built in 1953) in 1987 by shingling over the original shingled roof. I made some mistakes but have keep it patched and repaired over the past 26 years but now it is due for a new roof. I am not doing it myself as I am older and like to believe somewhat wiser now. In November of 2009 I received this estimate from a roofer that I intend to do the roof. I was going to have the roof replaced in 2009 but as retirement was soon looming I held off. But I am prepared to have the job done this spring. I have called my roofer and he said give him a call back in the spring when we get warmer here. I know the estimate is going to increase because of the increase in oil prices and am prepared for that. But what should I improve upon or get added to the estimate? We have had wind gusts over the years of up to 80 MPH and I do get some lichens on the back of the house that is partially shaded by a maple tree in the summer. (Although I have had it pruned back drastically so it isn't too bad now.)
One thing that's missing is the cost of replacing any rotted sheathing per sheet.
You may want him to include re-painting your vent pipes to match or if the existing paint is faded or peeled off. Oh, and drip edge usually comes galvanized or painted white, brown...It's better to go with an already painted because if you do choose to paint it the color of your home, it's easier to paint over than galvanized.
From my library; type of ridge vent; http://www.oikos.com/esb/30/atticvent.html
baffled choices (at page bottom) and NFVA choices (to match the 150/300 of house); http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/pro...dgeVents.shtml
In action; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rE6fyWHfTXc
The math; http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/pro...it-specs.shtml
Paper choices; http://www.internationalroofinggroup.com/products.htm
Paper differences per code; http://www.dickseibert.com/martin.pdfInteresting read; http://inspectapedia.com/roof/Roofing_Underlayment.htm
Download the 1.6M for tips; https://ams.confex.com/ams/29Hurrica...per_167533.htm
More tips, sheathing fasteners not breaking surface, etc.; https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...a7kN_jao09VTDg
PS. Welcome to the forums, lilbitaleah!
Oh, I was speaking of pipe vents as opposed to ridge vents. Pipe vents are used for toilets and natural gas ventilation. I am used to the homes in my area maybe you dont have these? Its cosmetic only but may as well have the roofer do it while he's up there:)
I appreciate the comments posted. It appears the estimate covers most of the important issues involved in roofing my house.
Is 15# felt paper sufficient for my area?
You never want the term "as needed" in any specification or contract. If you have a chimney, it needs it. The key is to do it correctly.
You must have a clause that states the roof will be kept in a water tight condition during the course of the contract, and any damage resulting from moisture intrusion will be borne by the contractor.
You should have a unit price for replacement of decking in kind. If plywood the unit price should be for minimum 4 x 4 and span three supports.
Ice dams material must extend 2 feet inside the homes exterior wall line at the eaves. The valleys should have a full sheet centered on the valley.
The exact make and model of ridge vent should be included.
Nailing pattern for high wind areas and warranty for same should be stipulated.
Time of construction should be stipulated. Be reasonable here, but a week is enough for most homes.
Specify protection of shrubs driveway etc, and specify any flat tires caused by roofing nails is on the contractor. Spec magnetic bar in clean up.
The products should be from a single manufacturer, or as warranted by a single manufacturer.
The shingles should be AR (Algae Resistant)
The felt should be ASTM D-226 Type 1
I like Certainteed Landmark, but there are quite a few good ones nowadays.
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