1953 cape cod roof ventilation

eraceme2

I live in a cape cod house that was built in 1953. The previous owners put an addition on the back of the house. I have two dormers in the front. I have two leaks on the first floor. One in the living room near the window, and one in the dining room near the window. Both leaks are about two feet from the windows. I plan to reaplace the roof, and the gutters. Right now I have no source of ventilation in the front of the house. In the back I have a soffit, along with two turbine vents. Inside the house on the second floor I have a house fan. I would like to know any ideas on ventilating my attic space properly. Also I would like to know if its okay to have rolled rubber ashpault membrane on the back addition.

Ed the Roofer

You need both types of vents, Intake and Exhaust.

You also need to ensure that the insulation is not blocking airflow in the vaulted/cathedral ceiling portion prior to intersecting with the knee wall.

So, Smart Vents continuously along the Eaves on both sides and Shingle Vent II Ridge Vent along the entire peak.

Where the rear, nearly flat roof dormer is located, I induce an additional Internal Baffle into the interior of the Shingle vent II to prevent snow or ice back up and that system has worked for me since 1991.

The roof can be covered with a flat roof material, such as EPDM Rubber, or covered entirely with Ice and Water Shield and then shingled.

Ed

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Chemist1961

I wish Ed had a franchise office in my city.
Try this website to understand the requirements www.buildingscience.com

eraceme2

When you mentioned smart vents along the eaves of the house. Did you mean infront, and in back. If so about how many smart vents I should put? The roofer told me he is planing to install ridge vent along the peak. What should I do with the two turbine fans in back?

My dormers are located in the front of the house. You mentioned where the rear, nearly flat roof dormer is located, to iduce an additional internal baffel into the Shingle vent II to prevent ice back up. Can you sent me a pic of what an internal baffel?

Ed the Roofer

Eliminate the Turbine Vents when you have a more proficient Exhaust Vent, such as the Shingle Vent II Ridge Vent to prevent them from counter-acting each other.

I will see what I can either draw up, or find from old job site photos for the detail of the internal baffle.

Basically, it is the installation of a J-Channel inside of the hollowed our center of the Ridge Vent. The longer section goes on top of the Ice and Water Shield, but under the newly installed shingles or flat roof membrane material. Then position the Ridge Bent on top, making sure where the J-Channel is placed, it does not wind up interfering with the Exhaust Air Flowage.

Ed

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Ed the Roofer

Joe Lstirubek is a Great Source for Ventilation Theory. Some are more radical than ANY Current codes allow for, with the exception of Massachusetts adapted codes.

Thank you for the compliment.

But, I would not know where to begin to create a Franchise, where that Franchisee would have the same experience, knowledge and dedication and passion for teaching his crews the Right Way to do tasks, even if there is not documentation on how to achieve the results desired.

Ed

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eraceme2

Is there another simple method of solving this problem?

eraceme2

My gables face east and west. Would gable vents on both sides be another method?