When tiling why not start from the tub and go up?

chutch76

I am getting ready to replace a tub and tile the wall surround for the shower. I have watched a few different videos and they always say to start in the middle of the wall and work your way down and out. This of course requires you to adjust where you start to make sure you get a full tile at the bottom. Why is this necessary? I understand why you would want a full tile at the bottom but why not work from the tub up to the celing? I am sure there is something that I am missing but I can't figure it out.

Also the tub that I am going to be installing is a standard tub that you attach to the studs and has a lip to do this. Does it not matter that the lip will stick out and what ever you put over it will not be even? I don't know that I am explaining that the best but basically because whatever you choose to put on the wall will be going over two slightly different levels from the tub to the studs.

Any help would be appreciated. I have done enough home remodeling to know that I am going to run into things I don't expect. If anyone has things to be aware of or things to be prepared for it would be great. I am doing this last minute because my current tub has a leak and since I only have one full bath in the house I have to do this quickly as possible. Any advice and help would be apprieciated.

Thanks,
Chris

Duckweather

Most tubs should fasten to the studs (or shim the studs if it doesn't) and the drywall or backer starts from the lip. Then the tile overlaps the lip making it watertight. I have always started from the bottom up, from a plumb center line outwards so each end is identical. Or from a whole tile in the center outwards, whichever makes the end tile piece largest.

firehawkmph

Chris,
do a search on this site for tiling a tub. There has been a number of threads explaining a couple different ways to deal with the tub lip. As far as layout and starting, the top of a tub is seldom perfectly straight. Most tilers start one row up from the bottom, leaving just under a full tile for the first row so the tiles can be trimmed to fit. Use a small piece of wood (1 x1, 1 x 2, etc.) and fasten it to the wall with a couple of screws. The wood strip will support your tile when starting with the second row. You can remove the strip after the thinset has firmed up enough to keep the tiles from sagging. Caulk the few screw holes with silicone seal and cut and fit your first row. Leave them about an 1/8" off the top of the tub and caulk that joint when your done grouting. Also caulk any 90 degree corners. You can get caulk that matches the grout color at the tile store.
Mike Hawkins

joecaption

I use pressure treated lattis to shim out the walls in the tub area, as mention the tile board goes just over the tub lip,an the tile get set about 1/4 above the tub. silicone is used once everything sets up to seal the tub to tile area, never thin set.
Silicone is also used in the inside corners of the tile.
You can get matching caulking both sanded and unsand in any color that grout comes in.

Do not forget to water proof the tile board with a product like Red Guard. Grout needs to be seal.
Grout and tile board are not waterproof.

chutch76

Now that makes since to me. I didn't think about starting one row up just under a full tile but I see why that makes since. Thanks for the info!

chutch76

I will check it out. Thanks!

oh'mike

Typically,the backer board is set on the top of the tub flange.

The resulting gap is filled with thinset as the walls are tiled.

If the backer board is to be waterproofed with a paint on membrane---fill that gap first--then apply the the membrane.

__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--