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Old 05-18-2012, 01:14 PM   #1
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tub tile surround


I am doing a tub surround (3 walls) of 12 x 12 glazed porcelin tile. For the studs I was going to install 6mil plastic then hardibacker 500 1/2 inch(unsure why they call it this as it is not 1/2" thick...) and then the tile.

I have several questions. Is it better to use a versabond fortified thinset mortar or acrylpro tile adhesive?

I have read several sites and had opinions from box store people whom I don't really trust and there does not seem to be what I would call consensus. also when using which ever product would it be best to "split the adhesive(glue or thin set) and trowel 1/2 on the hardi and 1/2 on the tile to ensure adhesion?

do you have to tape or hold the tile for any length of time to make sure gravity doesn't have them fall?

and finally do you need more "backing to the framing than the regular 16" on center studs as if setting the board horizontal (3x5) the long horizontal run is only braced every 16" and the corners......thanks!


Last edited by oh'mike; 05-20-2012 at 05:04 AM. Reason: added spaces
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Old 05-18-2012, 04:00 PM   #2
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Snap a horizontal line for your level reference mark then screw a piece of 1x to the wall touching the line. Set your first course touching the pine and then use spacers as you go up.

Putting thinset on the wall and back-buttering the tile makes a "vacuum" effect that seals the tile to the wall provided your mix is not too wet. Give each tile a little shake or twist as you press into onto the wall.

Wear safety glasses when cutting or nibbling tile.

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Old 05-18-2012, 09:47 PM   #3
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Hi Moose & Dog,

Install your CBU horizontally on the back wall and vertically on the side walls. 16" o.c. is the norm and will be just fine. Be sure to tape the joints with the fiberglass mesh and thin set. Use ONLY real modified thin set such as Versabond, leave the pre-mixed stuff to collect dust on the shelf.

Damp sponge or mist the Hardie just before you apply the thin set with the flat side of your trowel, then go right back with more thin set and gauge with the 1/4x3/8x1/4 notched side. Make the notches in one direction. Butter each tile then set them.

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Old 05-19-2012, 09:39 AM   #4
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Any reason your skiping the waterproofing step on the tile board?
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Old 05-19-2012, 09:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Any reason your skiping the waterproofing step on the tile board?
Yes, can't do both. I would skip the visqueen and apply a surface waterproofing though.

Quote:
I was going to install 6mil plastic then hardibacker 500
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:11 AM   #6
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I will assume the waterproofer is like redgard. is that more reliable than a good ole sheet of plastic? are there issues with the thinset "sticking" to the waterproof product? do you need to go to the top of the walls or just spout high as it appears that the product doesn't get you much coverage per gallon....

also I was reading that you apply redgard to primer???? do I need to prime(like kilz) the hardiboard before I put the regard on????

Last edited by moose1; 05-19-2012 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 05-19-2012, 12:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moose1 View Post
I will assume the waterproofer is like redgard. is that more reliable than a good ole sheet of plastic? are there issues with the thinset "sticking" to the waterproof product? do you need to go to the top of the walls or just spout high as it appears that the product doesn't get you much coverage per gallon....

also I was reading that you apply redgard to primer???? do I need to prime(like kilz) the hardiboard before I put the regard on????
Redgard, Hydroban liquids or sheet membranes such as Kerdi are the best way to go. Plastic or tarpaper behind the CBU will only act as a vapor retarder.

No need to go all the way to ceiling. No primer especially paint primers. Be sure to apply the recommended number of coats/thickness. Modified thin set are used to bond the tiles. Read directions well.

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Old 05-19-2012, 06:47 PM   #8
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One or the other do not use redgard with a moisture or vapor barrier.
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Old 05-19-2012, 10:05 PM   #9
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how much of the surround area needs the redgard? it seems alike the showerhead wall up to the head but that the other walls wouldn't need to go up as high?
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Old 05-19-2012, 10:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moose1
how much of the surround area needs the redgard? it seems alike the showerhead wall up to the head but that the other walls wouldn't need to go up as high?
You want to cover all walls and use fortified thinset which has polymers already in the thinset.
Redgard doesn't act well with regular modified thinset.

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