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Old 06-16-2013, 05:51 PM   #16
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Tiling Shower walls


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Thanks all. The Durock will be going up next week sometime. I'm still undecided on whether to replace the shower valve and copper connection pipes. On the one hand, it makes sense to replace them now, especially since the plumbing is exposed. But, the house is only about 15 years old, and I don't really see any issues with the current pipes and connections. I did a simple water test and did not observe any leaks. I don't know how long soldered pipes last, but changing them now make sense and doesn't make sense - if that makes sense.

Leaving a 15 year old valve behind the wall is wise only if it is a popular brand and parts will be easily attained for the next 15 to 18 years.
That is the typical life of a tub/shower.

Also--is it an anti-scald/pressure balanced unit or is it obsolete by todays code?

If both are true--then leave it alone----

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Old 06-16-2013, 06:44 PM   #17
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Mike,

The current valve doesn't have a name on it. The trim doesn't either, but I've seen the trim at Home Depot. The valve has the words "Mixet Patd" stamped on it, but I haven't been able to determine what the means. The soldered areas on the pipes appear in okay condition, but there is some green stuff on some of the copper pipes. A local plumber has quoted me $250 to install a new valve. Fixture and valve not included.
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:29 PM   #18
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You really need to learn a bit of sweating---that is an odd ball valve --the copper looks fine--the green is from some flux that was not wiped off during the original install.

If you can squeeze a little more out of your budget and buy a Delta or Moen valve--your will have nice new trims --and a valve that will be easy to service for years to come---

Do you have any friends with basic plumbing skills?

Do you own a propane torch?

I would not leave that old unit----you might not find parts for it next year---
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:42 PM   #19
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I have been around the block with the corners and caulking.

I think the best way to do it is to put some backer rod in the corner and grout, then pull out the backer rod immediately.

I have tried plugging the corner with cardboard, grouting first, etc. and the backer rod is my ticket for a nobel prize as far as I'm concerned.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:30 AM   #20
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Cleveman: I presume skipping over the corner grout lines would be a pain to do? I will insert the backer rod instead, grout all walls, then after a day or two, I'll remove the backer rod and caulk.

Mike: Sadly, I don't know anyone who can solder, nor do I own a torch. I def should learn how to solder though, as there have been many times when I've needed to sweat a copper pipe to something. The plumber wants $250 to install and sweat the pipes....an amount I seriously think is unreasonable. But such is life.
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Old 06-17-2013, 05:57 AM   #21
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Your method would work---but seems like one more step than necessary---
I'm not sure what you mean. I'm assuming I'm misunderstanding you....

me:
1) caulk corners
2) grout walls

you:
1) grout walls
2) clean out corners
3) caulk corners
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:13 AM   #22
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Sorry I have never heard of caulking before grout--

I picture many issues, but could be wrong---how do you keep the caulk from squeezing into the horizontal joints?

how do you clean the grout that gets on top of your caulk?

Do you have a picture of a finished corner that you have done?

Sounds like a time consuming ,messy job.
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:28 AM   #23
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I have caulked first and let it set up and grouted the wall.

I could send a picture, but it doesn't look nice. What you end up with is some grout over the caulk.

If you use the backer rod method, don't wait for the grout to set up before you remove the backer rod. You should be able to use one piece of backer rod and just move it from corner to corner.
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:38 AM   #24
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Sounds like a lot of extra work, when a quick clean out with a knife does the job---

You have to use the method that works for you----
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:21 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
I picture many issues, but could be wrong---how do you keep the caulk from squeezing into the horizontal joints?
A caulk gun is very easy to control.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
how do you clean the grout that gets on top of your caulk?
Same way you clean it off the tile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Do you have a picture of a finished corner that you have done?
Not that it will do much good, but attached...

Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Sounds like a time consuming ,messy job.
Still not following why you think it's time consuming, but to each his own I guess.
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:45 AM   #26
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Jeff: Nice work on the tile. What shower head and trim model was used?
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Old 06-17-2013, 03:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay2013 View Post
Mike,

The current valve doesn't have a name on it. The trim doesn't either, but I've seen the trim at Home Depot. The valve has the words "Mixet Patd" stamped on it, but I haven't been able to determine what the means. The soldered areas on the pipes appear in okay condition, but there is some green stuff on some of the copper pipes. A local plumber has quoted me $250 to install a new valve. Fixture and valve not included.
I would have changed all that pipe and the valve. That is only Type M copper, and the valve has had it. The nails securing the pipe appear to be iron cut nails too. Leaving that stuff behind a new tile job could end in me kicking myself in the axe for years for lack of foresight. I try to avoid that these days.
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Old 06-17-2013, 03:56 PM   #28
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Very nice tile work Jeff. Looks great!
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Old 06-17-2013, 05:05 PM   #29
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Yea, I'm going to have it all replaced. I was going to use Pex pipping/fittings and do it all myself, but I prefer copper, so I'll have a master plumber re-install the pipes using Type L or K. Although, I was at HD last night, and the wall thickness of L and K compared to M isn't all that much greater.
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:27 PM   #30
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Thanks. The box was left at the house - I want to say Pfister Pasadena because that's what the sink faucet was and I think they matched. Here are some before/after pics - it was a pretty gross bathroom.
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Tiling Shower walls-batha_before.jpg   Tiling Shower walls-batha_before2.jpg   Tiling Shower walls-batha_after3.jpg  

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