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-   -   Tiling a room with hot tub issues (http://www.diychatroom.com/f84/tiling-room-hot-tub-issues-190045/)

qslim 11-09-2013 06:58 PM

Tiling a room with hot tub issues
 
I'm tiling the Florida room this weekend, and in said florida room is a hot tub that is just a monstrosity to move around. It's a corner unit, so I had a couple of neighbors help push the thing into the middle of the room so I can tile the corner where it sits (I didn't want to tile it in). My plan is to lay the tile in that corner, grout and seal it, put it back in the corner and then go ahead and tile the rest of the room.

What I'm worried about is cracking the tile as I lift the tub onto the exposed edge to be pushed back into the corner, I mean the thing weighs a ton. Am I overthinking this here or should I be taking precautions to prevent a busted tile?

wkearney99 11-09-2013 07:42 PM

Um, take the water out first? Most tubs don't weigh all that much empty. Moving them while full also puts a lot of stress on the tub, greatly increase the chance of damaging it and causing leaks.

If you're worried about the transition up to the tile then put down some plywood leading up to the edge of the tile. Then at least the tub will be up to the tile's edge with the weight on the wood first.

Good plan to move it and tile under it. Just make sure the tile onto which you plan to move it has properly set. It'd be a shame to have that work get squished out of shape due to the tub's weight.

So, it's empty, right?

qslim 11-09-2013 10:26 PM

Ha, yeah man it's empty. It's an 8 person tub, hardwood case, motors, pumps and so forth, so it's got some mass. Based on my limited experience thinset is good for traffic after 24 hours, should I give this longer before I slide it up?

JazMan 11-10-2013 10:51 PM

slim,

24 hours is not close to being enough time unless there's a way to spread the weight evenly for every second and that's not possible.

I'd say at least 3 days, but that depends of the tiles, how well it's installed, ambient conditions and which mortar used.

Jaz

wkearney99 11-10-2013 11:42 PM

What Jaz wrote. I'd worry about there being enough time to get the tile to set properly.

I'd also be inclined to do the area under the tub first. But this will make it a multi-week project. Move it, tile it, let that set, grout it and then them both set. Only then would you move the tub back again. Then repeat the process across the rest of the floor.

Be sure to keep enough of the tile stored on-site in the event the stuff under the tub gets screwed up. Better to have extras because it's almost impossible to match anything up at a later date.

qslim 11-11-2013 07:27 AM

Thanks all for the replies. The area that will be under the hot tub will still need to be sealed, so I'll just cool my jets here and give it a week. :thumbsup:

JazMan 11-11-2013 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qslim-F-16 DIYer
so I'll just cool my jets here and give it a week.

:thumbsup:

It's best to wait. But, I think AquaMix (still) makes (?) a same day sealer. I never tried it, but grout can be sealed just a few hours after installing. The concept doesn't appeal to me, but there may be a market for such a product.

Jaz

qslim 11-12-2013 05:42 PM

Thank you very much again for the advice. While I have your ear, I have one more question..

The tile work I'm doing in the sun room is continuing out onto the patio, a poured unsealed concrete slab. On the corners of the slab I put a couple of decorative walls a few feet high, but the rest of the perimeter (I'd estimate about 80 linear feet) is exposed where the slab was framed and poured, and needs to stay that way for drainage purposes. The slab sits an inch or so above the grass, and I'm wondering what to do there where the tile stops. Is it normal to have an exposed edge of tile on the edge of the slab? Do people (who have experience) typically put a bit of a miter on the tile edge?

JazMan 11-12-2013 09:50 PM

Definitely no bevel on the cut tiles.

The slab should be higher than the dirt, but usually the grass is taller than the slab. Does the grass hide the edge? You could use an aluminum tile edging such as Schluter's Schiene or Reno-U.http://www.schluter.com/137.aspx

Jaz

qslim 11-13-2013 05:57 AM

The grass doesn't quite hide the edge when it's cut and trimmed. I saw some of these aluminum transition products at the local big box place, but the guy there advised that it wouldn't be a good idea for an exterior application..? He recommended a pencil thin ceramic transition, but those suckers are at least several dollars for a 6" piece, and I probably have 80 linear feet to do.

wkearney99 11-13-2013 08:50 AM

I wouldn't use a thin strip of tile as that's just asking for it to come loose/crack under pressure of walking transitions on it. The metal edge strips have a flange that's adhered under the adjacent tiles to help avoid that. Don't know what they have suitable for outdoor use though.

What's the tile? Ceramic and porcelain don't lend themselves to rounding over, but a stone might. It's something an experienced tile setter could do in the field with a sander, grinder or other wet tool. But it'd be a challenge to DIY, especially when there's long sections of it where you'd SEE the results of your 'developing skills' all the time.\

Might there be a pre-made bullnose or other edging tile that would work with the field tiles?

JazMan 11-13-2013 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wkearney99
Might there be a pre-made bullnose or other edging tile that would work with the field tiles?

Well sure, many tiles have matching bullnose, but slim doesn't want to pay the price for special pieces.
Quote:

Originally Posted by qslim
those suckers are at least several dollars for a 6" piece, and I probably have 80 linear feet to do.

Jaz

wkearney99 11-14-2013 07:19 AM

I read he'd mentioned pencils, and those are usually a bit pricey. I'm talking about sections with a bullnosed edge. They're usually somewhere between the field tile and pencils, price-wise.

qslim 11-14-2013 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JazMan (Post 1266328)
Well sure, many tiles have matching bullnose, but slim doesn't want to pay the price for special pieces.

Jaz


Damn right Jaz.. Like every customer, I want it to look awesome, last forever, and not cost a lot. :laughing:

A local guy here in town said he had some of those finishing strip products in PVC for outdoor applications, I just don't know how sturdy they would be for a floor application where people will be walking. I'll check them out this weekend. Thanks again all for the advice.

JazMan 11-14-2013 11:30 PM

I wouldn't use the plastic trims outdoors, or even indoor for floors. They were intended for walls originally.

The aluminum and brass trims are as durable as the surface they're installed to. You can drive army tanks over them.

Jaz


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