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tomknox 10-16-2011 07:05 PM

Tiling bath surround
Guy's i'm finally almost ready to work on the surround, got a few questions on finishing it off. What's gonna look cleaner/more professional?

1) Outside corner where the drywall meet's the tile, go with plastic corner bead with spray adhesive, then tile to the edge?


2) Wrap around the corner a bit with the drywall and have the bullnose slightly overlaping the drywall then chaulk the edge?(tile stopping short of the corner)

I dont want a problem similar to this:

Thanks guy's!!

oh'mike 10-17-2011 08:37 PM

I always check that outside corner to make sure it's plumb---If it is I tile to the edge of the corner bead.

I will carefully grout what edge --never once had a customer comment on the grouted edge--

If the wall is out of plumb you will have to make a decision--will a painted strip of drywall that is wider at the top or bottom look worse than cutting the tile to the bull nose or not.

I do mostly complete bath remodels---so if that corner is out of wack--it's my fault and my responsibility to fix it. So I don't run into that problem very often.---Mike---

tomknox 10-18-2011 09:49 AM

Mike, i think the corner is fairly plum but its hard to tell right now since the durock isn't up yet. I will take pics through this process just like the last threads! Lowes doesn't offer any drywall shims, i could rip my own but after looking around it would be expensive.

1) Could i use paint sticks instead? At .10 cent a piece, it would cost less. It says 100% wood on them....

Thanks a million Mike!!!

Bud Cline 10-18-2011 05:11 PM

Thanks for the invitation Tom but I'm not following any of this. Sorry.:)

Bud Cline 10-18-2011 05:32 PM

When cement board meets an outside corner I generally install a plastic corner bead and drywall-finish both sides to bring it up to paintable status even tho the tile side isn't getting painted. This way the outside corner is perfect and clean. I then either use a little primer to close the raw joint compound or bind it with liquid waterproofing. But, I have liquid waterproofing on hand at all times.

Tile adhesives don't like joint compound but everything works out fine if the joint compound is sealed.

I then bring bullnose up to the corner bead allowing only enough space to make a nice looking caulked joint at that location.

When I run into a slightly crooked existing corner over which I have no control I again use bullnose in the same fashion perfectly paralleling the corner bead and forcing any error to go to the grout line on the field tile side of the bullnose. That way the error in the grout line is lot less noticeable than an error on a corner bead where the eye has something to compare to.:)

tomknox 10-18-2011 07:47 PM

1) Liquid water-proofing as in Redguard??

2) What kinda primer i might ask??


oh'mike 10-18-2011 07:58 PM

Bud will be back----:whistling2:

Redguard is a popular brand of waterproofing membrane and would be a good choice here.

As to primer----Bud may have a favorite --so I'll let him fill in that blank---Mike---

Bud Cline 10-18-2011 10:10 PM


Bud may have a favorite --so I'll let him fill in that blank.
Nope no real favorite. Just anything to kill the chalky surface and close it up to moisture. Kilz, Primer Coat, Tile Mastic (skim coated), etc.

The less joint compound the better so that it doesn't go into what will be the wet-area behind the door (line) or curtain (line) or whatever.:) Redgard would be the choice but at fifty bucks a gallon....?
I also use Redgard on all the seams and for surface coating the wallboard.

tomknox 10-19-2011 09:30 AM

Yall know how to have a good time!! Redguard is down the road and i fully intend on using em! Are saying i can slap it on the corner of the drwall? I haven't read the spec's on it but that sounds great if i can!!

tomknox 10-21-2011 11:42 AM

Hey guys, my shower head is 6'7'' from the floor. My ceiling on the rear wall isn't very straight so i didn't want to run tile to the ceiling. Is there a rule of thumb on where to stop the tile? Below or above the shower head? (8' ceiling by the way)

Thanks fella's!!

oh'mike 10-21-2011 12:18 PM

Only rule is what looks right to you----I like to get the shower arm into the tile--below the cap tile.

Use some painters tape to mark the top of the proposed layout---stand back and look at it---If it looks right --it is.

There is no 'rule' if the shower are is above the tile--and looks good--that's O.K. ,too.

Make sure the escutcheon for the arm will clear the tile or you will have a mess.

tomknox 11-07-2011 03:09 PM

Alright sorry for the slow progress, i've got a hernia that needs a fixin so i've been going slow!!

1) I installed kraft faced insulation, is that fine in my bathroom?
(No poly barrier, i will be using redguard)

2) Will the paint sticks for shims be ok to use?

Thanks fellas!!

Bud Cline 11-07-2011 03:17 PM


i've got a hernia that needs a fixin so i've been going slow!!
I'll see your hernia and raise you two more.:)


Will the paint sticks for shims be ok to use?
I'm lost again.:yes:

tomknox 11-07-2011 04:18 PM

Bud, thanks for the hasty reply!! My first hernia and hopefully the last, sometimes it feels like a cigar getting put out on me! Look above (My second reply) for a better explanation on the paint sticks, i asked but it got overlooked i think. What about the kraft faced insulation also?

Bud Cline 11-07-2011 05:46 PM


sometimes it feels like a cigar getting put out on me!
Cuban or domestic?:)


Look above (My second reply) for a better explanation on the paint sticks,
My density meter must be pegging the needle 'cause I'm still not following the "sticks" thing. Are you worried about shimming the wallboard? Using a plastic outside corner will help that issue and the piece can be tweaked a little if necessary to put the corner on track.:)


What about the kraft faced insulation also?
I would use open face if you are going to waterproof the face of the wallboard.:)

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