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-   -   Tile work imminent (http://www.diychatroom.com/f84/tile-work-imminent-163646/)

rightit 11-17-2012 10:36 AM

Tile work imminent
 
1 Attachment(s)
I'm at the point in my project where I'm ready for the tile to be installed. I'm not doing the install myself as I lack any experience at all in tile work and would like a quality job :).

The tile will be large format (18x18 or greater) and placed diagonally in the room.

At the moment, I have two preliminary questions:

1. Does DIYCR etiquette allow me to return to this thread with the inevitable subsequent questions, or should I start a new thread for each instance?

2. As you can see from the attached image, I have a few low spots in the slab (1/4" at its deepest). This image was taken some time back just after the slab was poured.

a: In dealing with the low spots, should SLC be used prior to the tile install or is it better to allow the installer to level it out with thinset during the install?

Thanks!

Attachment 60648

oh'mike 11-17-2012 10:55 AM

Keep all your questions in this thread---easier to remember what's what----

Thinset should NOT be used to level the floor----use self leveling compound before starting the actual setting--

The bigger the tile the more critical the floor flatness is---also---the use of tile leveling clips will help aloud lippage----ask if the installer is planning to use them----

SLC requires a primer on the raw concrete to ensure a proper bond---read the label----

You tile setter may (should) insist on doing that part of the job---if done poorly his work will suffer----

rightit 11-17-2012 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 1054261)
Keep all your questions in this thread---easier to remember what's what----

Thinset should NOT be used to level the floor----use self leveling compound before starting the actual setting--

The bigger the tile the more critical the floor flatness is---also---the use of tile leveling clips will help aloud lippage----ask if the installer is planning to use them----

SLC requires a primer on the raw concrete to ensure a proper bond---read the label----

You tile setter may (should) insist on doing that part of the job---if done poorly his work will suffer----

Thanks for the response. I'd really rather the tile guy do the leveling anyway. Thanks also for the additional info. THe toughest part of this project is bringing in subs for the work I can't (or shouldn't) do myself. More out there who have no integrity than those who do, so it's good to have information that they may not give.

2 other questions --

1. It's been suggested by a few people that Prism is the grout to use...not epoxy but more 'flexible', doesn't support mold or organism growth, etc. Good advice?

2. It's also been said that a good mortar (thinset?) that is a bit expensive should be used, but no brand name was given and I forgot to ask. Any recommendations there?

Again, thanks. :)

oh'mike 11-17-2012 11:58 AM

Not familiar with PRISM---I use Latacrete epoxy on most of my work----it's good but difficult to use---good for a pro---

Urethane grouts are good----look next door at Contractor talk--link at the bottom of the page----Angus uses it a lot---

Jazman has forgotten more than I will ever know about tile---If he offers advice---listen---Mike---

joecaption 11-17-2012 12:53 PM

Are you sure you posted the right picture. Looks like a one car garage.
Why do the wall studs not reach the floor?

rightit 11-17-2012 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1054358)
Are you sure you posted the right picture. Looks like a one car garage.
Why do the wall studs not reach the floor?

An old photo, taken while the slab was curing. I took it to 'map' the low spots in the slab. As for the studs, I placed the steel supports and removed the bottom 16" of the wall to accomodate the concrete. After the concrete had some cure time, I ponied the bottom.

rightit 11-19-2012 06:36 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Back again with a few more questions :). The image below shows that the durock is a bit higher than the sheetrock. About 3/8" on the left (valve side), and just a bit on the right. What might be the best way to deal with this that will look good (great, even...coving, some kind of trim, filler between rock and tile where it meets the wall?)?

The tile in the shower is going to the ceiling. I'd like the wall tile to stop at least a few inches beyond the CB and onto the rock. I'm not tiling all walls because I'll likely be enlarging my electrical service later and will need to get into the wall (on the right side).

I guess I could tile all the walls and remove and replace whatever tiles necessary, but I'd like to avoid that if possible:


Attachment 60769

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2. How to handle the bottom of durock/#15 felt? I have enough felt hanging into the receptor to leave 1/2" or more.

The 2 questions:

1. How much felt should I leave hanging below the durock?
2. What sealant (if any) should be applied and how and where (i.e., just the felt to the flange, felt to the durock,...)?

I guess any moisture that occurs should have a planned egression, but I'm not sure what?


Attachment 60770

Comments appreciated. Thanks!


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