Tile work imminent
I'm at the point in my project where I'm ready for the tile to be installed. I'm not doing the install myself as I lack any experience at all in tile work and would like a quality job :).
The tile will be large format (18x18 or greater) and placed diagonally in the room.
At the moment, I have two preliminary questions:
1. Does DIYCR etiquette allow me to return to this thread with the inevitable subsequent questions, or should I start a new thread for each instance?
2. As you can see from the attached image, I have a few low spots in the slab (1/4" at its deepest). This image was taken some time back just after the slab was poured.
a: In dealing with the low spots, should SLC be used prior to the tile install or is it better to allow the installer to level it out with thinset during the install?
Keep all your questions in this thread---easier to remember what's what----
Thinset should NOT be used to level the floor----use self leveling compound before starting the actual setting--
The bigger the tile the more critical the floor flatness is---also---the use of tile leveling clips will help aloud lippage----ask if the installer is planning to use them----
SLC requires a primer on the raw concrete to ensure a proper bond---read the label----
You tile setter may (should) insist on doing that part of the job---if done poorly his work will suffer----
2 other questions --
1. It's been suggested by a few people that Prism is the grout to use...not epoxy but more 'flexible', doesn't support mold or organism growth, etc. Good advice?
2. It's also been said that a good mortar (thinset?) that is a bit expensive should be used, but no brand name was given and I forgot to ask. Any recommendations there?
Again, thanks. :)
Not familiar with PRISM---I use Latacrete epoxy on most of my work----it's good but difficult to use---good for a pro---
Urethane grouts are good----look next door at Contractor talk--link at the bottom of the page----Angus uses it a lot---
Jazman has forgotten more than I will ever know about tile---If he offers advice---listen---Mike---
Are you sure you posted the right picture. Looks like a one car garage.
Why do the wall studs not reach the floor?
Back again with a few more questions :). The image below shows that the durock is a bit higher than the sheetrock. About 3/8" on the left (valve side), and just a bit on the right. What might be the best way to deal with this that will look good (great, even...coving, some kind of trim, filler between rock and tile where it meets the wall?)?
The tile in the shower is going to the ceiling. I'd like the wall tile to stop at least a few inches beyond the CB and onto the rock. I'm not tiling all walls because I'll likely be enlarging my electrical service later and will need to get into the wall (on the right side).
I guess I could tile all the walls and remove and replace whatever tiles necessary, but I'd like to avoid that if possible:
2. How to handle the bottom of durock/#15 felt? I have enough felt hanging into the receptor to leave 1/2" or more.
The 2 questions:
1. How much felt should I leave hanging below the durock?
2. What sealant (if any) should be applied and how and where (i.e., just the felt to the flange, felt to the durock,...)?
I guess any moisture that occurs should have a planned egression, but I'm not sure what?
Comments appreciated. Thanks!
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:54 AM.|
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.