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Old 02-08-2011, 12:22 PM   #1
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Tile tub surround, Kohler cash iron tub


Hello! First off, thanks in advance for your help!!

I've taken out my old tub and surround, and taken out the old surround and drywall... so right now I've got a tub and bare studs.

I have the Kohler Villager cast iron tub, which presents an issue. The vertical lip around the top edge of the tub is very thick, probably about 3/8"... I understand that typically the backerboard should go over this lip. So with the lip being so thick, how do I put the backerboard over it, whist still sitting flat on the studs??

Am I making sense?? Please help! Thanks!!

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Last edited by zrooster99; 02-08-2011 at 12:31 PM. Reason: I suppose that should say "cast iron" instead of "cash iron" :)
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Old 02-08-2011, 12:43 PM   #2
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Build out your studs to accommodate by using firing strips and then start your backerboard process. Read into moisture barriers and find a process that will work for you.

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Old 02-08-2011, 12:52 PM   #3
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Thank you! These strips, will I be able to buy them at Lowe's? Just nail them on?
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:22 PM   #4
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Any wood that is 3/8" or whatever thickness you need nailed on the studs should work. You usually buy a 2x4 and cut it to thickness on a table saw or the more costly method would be going to their molding aisle and buying pieces that are already cut to 3/8' thickness.
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:34 PM   #5
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The backer board does not go over the lip.

Backer is set on top of the lip---void is filled with thinset as the tile is set.---Mike---
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Old 02-09-2011, 06:56 AM   #6
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Hmmmm.... so Mike, are you saying the studs should be shimmed to be flush w/the back of the tub, or are you saying the backerboard should be flush w/the back of the tub? Seems to me like it wouldn't look right if the tile were to stick out past that lip, right?
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:10 AM   #7
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Right ---Look for a post by Jim F --I'll be back with a link---

Studs tight to the tub-
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:23 AM   #8
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Here is the link--Jim's Downstairs Bathroom Project - DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum

Jim had just joined the forum and had similar problems and questions---long but a good read for you.

Tubs are tight to the framing--Durrock or other backer is then installed to the top of the lip.

This allows the drywall to butt into the tile backer-----

Please ask away---no work for me today---Mike----
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Old 02-10-2011, 05:10 PM   #9
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To be honest Mike, I thought you were crazy Thanks for the link! I still didn't believe you, so I laid it out myself, and now it makes perfect sense! Thank you!
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Old 02-10-2011, 05:16 PM   #10
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I've already made those mistakes

I've reached the point where I have to find new and unheard of mistakes to make.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:48 AM   #11
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Cast Iron tubs have a very thick funky flange, but regardless of the tub type flange, Be very diligent on the flashing/waterproofing at that point. I see a major future problem with that installation in the link. Eventually water will run up the flange from hand-held shower sprays directed at the tub/flange, kids splashing around, etc..
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
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. I see a major future problem with that installation in the link. Eventually water will run up the flange from hand-held shower sprays directed at the tub/flange, kids splashing around, etc..

You would think so---but,oddly enough that does not seem to be a common problem.

With proper setting materials--Powdered modified thinset--

and standard installation techniques--that tub tile joint is seldom a point of failure---Mike---
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:06 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LIHR View Post
Cast Iron tubs have a very thick funky flange, but regardless of the tub type flange, Be very diligent on the flashing/waterproofing at that point. I see a major future problem with that installation in the link. Eventually water will run up the flange from hand-held shower sprays directed at the tub/flange, kids splashing around, etc..
Why do you say so? Durrock sitting on tub lip, tile overlaps and extends at least 1/4 below the durrock then silicone. How does the spray get past the silicone?
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:35 PM   #14
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The tub flange tile intersection is the weakest link in the entire wall assembly.

Silicone is not only going to fail over time, but will also capture water and cause mildew and mold. As water seeps through the grout it migrates down and is dammed up behind the silicone bead. The use of Ditra has dramatically increased the subsurface to dry quickly, and with the amount of showers and the length of showers taken today by the average family its use is practically mandatory. Many showers don't ever dry out.

A major problem is high pressure sprays directed down into the back rear corner of a shower receptor or bath tub.

In the photos above there is plastic hanging below and behind the tub. It's a recipe for failure.
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Old 02-18-2011, 12:35 AM   #15
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Well I'll keep that in mind. If, in a few years my tried and true method fails I'll post some pics. I installed it I guess I can maintain and repair it if necessary.

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