slate tile on exterior entry way

catmech

i posted this in flooring forum, before i realized there was a tile forum....we have a 4x4 entryway to our front door, House is pier and beam, so subfloor is wood. We want to lay cement board over the subfloor, and then slate tile. Wandering if they make a pre mix morter that would work for slate on exterior floor. I seen some pre mix at lowes, but it said for tile and stone, interior use. hate to use bag type, would have to buy large drill and mixer attatchment, etc

Thanks

Bud Cline

So.....this is out of doors and exposed to the elements?

Where are you?

catmech

yes its outside, does have a roof over it, but still exposed to rain etc. We are in Texas.

Bud Cline

To be done correctly the area needs to slope for drainage. One-quarter inch per foot is standard. The surface then needs to be waterproofed and the edges flashed up the walls slightly.

A membrane would be the best way to do this. Slate isn't the best choice but it's do-able.

This all assumes the structure is suitable for tile to begin with.

Not for this application.

Well there ya go, that answers that question.

Baloney

Why would you have to do that? Thinset is easy to mix by hand.

Don't let some lazy know-nothing talk you into premixed adhesive for this application - IT WON'T LAST.

catmech

thanks for the reply..i didnt know you could mix by hand..ive never layed any tile, but would buy the drill and paddle if i needed, just trying to save a little

What do you mean by a membrane? would that be ditra? use a membrane instead of the cement board? If slate is not reccomended, what would be a preferred tile, for outside? Wife just liked the slate, mainly because of texture. (not a slippery) Right now, the plywood subfloor is flat, how would i build a slope into it? Thanks in advance..and sorry for all the dumb questions, wife wants this done, and i dont have a clue

Bud Cline

YUP! It's not that much to do by hand.


YUP! DITRA or KERDI using KERDI Band for flashing material.


YUP!

Porcelain tile. Porcelain has the least moisture absorption rating and is great for freeze/thaw conditions but you want to use a powerhouse thinset. In this case it is better to use unmodified (cheap) thinset but mix-in your own additive, no water. This will give you an inexpensive power thinset without paying sixty bucks a bag for it. That's not to say already modified thinset couldn't be used.

And that is wise to reduce slips and falls. Porcelain tile is available that mimics slate and offers plenty of surface texture to increase the needed coefficient of friction.

That's where the work comes in. You could do a "cap" that slopes using sand and cement (mud). Assuming you have the space available for the additional required height of the mud - about 1-1/4" of thickness. Really not as intimidating as it may sound at first.

I didn't see a single dumb question anywhere. Not everyone has a need to know all this stuff.


Buy her some coveralls.