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Old 06-21-2013, 10:26 AM   #1
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Shower Rough-In Valve Vapor Barrier?


I got my shower wall fir'd out last night....and the felt applied. I'm thinking that the 30lb felt might be over kill...but I don't want any leaks....

So.....how do you apply the felt around the rough-in valve? I have a feeling that I cut away too much.



Side note....I figured out the easy way to get the felt up...measure and fold it on the floor before you hang it....that stuff does not bend well on the walls....especially the 30lb stuff.

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Old 06-21-2013, 09:20 PM   #2
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Shower Rough-In Valve Vapor Barrier?


You are back in the 1960s with felt behind the backer board---

I would not have done that--I always waterproof the face of the board with Hydroban or Red Guard---making a vapor barrier unnecessarily--

Tar paper is a vapor retarder--not a barrier,if my memory serves me right, so leaving it when waterproofing the face of the board should not hurt.

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Old 06-21-2013, 10:51 PM   #3
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Shower Rough-In Valve Vapor Barrier?


That is counter to what a lot of other people are telling me....I'm not doubting you....but I'm just getting a lot of different stories...

My real question was how to handle the area around the rough in.

What stops water from getting into the area of the valve and behind the hardibacker?

I know the trim is 'supposed' to keep water out....but if it doesn't....water gets in?
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:00 PM   #4
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Shower Rough-In Valve Vapor Barrier?


Hey Dwg... You progressing well I see...

Actually, we generally use 6mill poly film...and sometimes tape it around the valve.... honestly often not, as as your shower trim gets a nice bead of caulk around it.

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Old 06-22-2013, 06:49 AM   #5
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Shower Rough-In Valve Vapor Barrier?


DDawg---the trims will seal out water--caulk or not---so do not be concerned.

I've ripped out a lot of shower walls and it is seldom damaged from a bad seal around the escutcheon plate.

(There is no need to caulk a cover plate unless it's old and damaged---if someone here ever does that---do not caulk the bottom--there must be a way for stray water to drain back into the tub.)
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:08 AM   #6
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Shower Rough-In Valve Vapor Barrier?


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Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
DDawg---the trims will seal out water--caulk or not---so do not be concerned.

I've ripped out a lot of shower walls and it is seldom damaged from a bad seal around the escutcheon plate.

(There is no need to caulk a cover plate unless it's old and damaged---if someone here ever does that---do not caulk the bottom--there must be a way for stray water to drain back into the tub.)

Sorry Dawg....I forgot to mention... Mike'spoint, I think that is very important.

I do run a neat clear bead around the trim (wow Mike, you knew how to spell esctcheon)... I've never been confident in the rubber trim seal accross tile joints..... but Mike's point I think is important... there is usually a hole in the bottom of the trim.
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:09 AM   #7
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Shower Rough-In Valve Vapor Barrier?


Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
You are back in the 1960s with felt behind the backer board---

I would not have done that--I always waterproof the face of the board with Hydroban or Red Guard---making a vapor barrier unnecessarily--

Tar paper is a vapor retarder--not a barrier,if my memory serves me right, so leaving it when waterproofing the face of the board should not hurt.
If this is the case...then why is it used on roofs?

Side note....I got the hardibacker up around the valves. I must admit that it's easier to work with that stuff than I thought. In the past I've used cement board...messy stuff. I like the hardibacker a lot better.

I'll need to make some adjustments to my valve....it needs to come out about another 1/4"...when I set the depth, I didn't take into account the furring thickness.....(because I didn't know how the shower pan was going to be done.

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Old 06-22-2013, 11:28 AM   #8
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Shower Rough-In Valve Vapor Barrier?


Double check your shower instructions- most valves have min/max. depth and you may still be within that range.

I always caulk shower trim plates with a small bead of clear dap- as mentioned, don't caulk the bottom
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:40 AM   #9
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Shower Rough-In Valve Vapor Barrier?


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Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post
If this is the case...then why is it used on roofs?

Side note....I got the hardibacker up around the valves. I must admit that it's easier to work with that stuff than I thought. In the past I've used cement board...messy stuff. I like the hardibacker a lot better.

I'll need to make some adjustments to my valve....it needs to come out about another 1/4"...when I set the depth, I didn't take into account the furring thickness.....(because I didn't know how the shower pan was going to be done.

Dawg.... I believe we want the paper to "breath" on a roof deck in case water gets to the deck. (In the case of iceshield, the argument is that water/moisture will never get to the decking)

But in the case of a shower, because the CB or hardi is a cement product not prone to moisture degradation, I've always put a barrier behind the hardi (6mil poly).

In either case, I do not think your felt will be a practical issue. You've got nice tight hardi, tape the joints, and tile, it's on a wall not really prone to water invasion.... just my opinion and always open to other thoughts.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:35 PM   #10
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Shower Rough-In Valve Vapor Barrier?


I'm a coward---I hate apologizing --so I always waterproof the face of the board----if you do that--what is behind the backer is unimportant---

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