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-   -   Shower grout and puffy wall (http://www.diychatroom.com/f84/shower-grout-puffy-wall-117105/)

sierra1194 09-13-2011 10:29 AM

Shower grout and puffy wall
 
4 Attachment(s)
The grout between some tile had cracks and the wall behind it had puffed up some so I dug out the grout and ended up removing a couple tile pieces. I dug out loose powder and found some rust, etc. I also scraped off the puffed up painted wall on the back side of the shower.

This shower is in a bathroom that has a separate tub. The shower is in a corner next to a toilet and has a glass door. The grout that separated is in the lower part of the shower just above the shower pan. Whoever did the tile work a while back, did not replace the tiled shower pan (replaced old tile board on two and a half walls of tileboard, the other one and a half is glass shower door and wall).

How should I go about fixing this problem or do I need to remove some more tile or everything to repair this wall somehow? Can I just remove the lower portion and redo?

Marbledust 09-13-2011 10:37 AM

Strip the walls to the studs.start over.3 day project labor.$300 materials

DrHicks 09-13-2011 12:49 PM

Tough one.

Marbledust pointed out the right way to do it - the way that will have the best, and most permanent, finished product. Unfortunately, that's going to take a lot of work and (potentially) a lot of money.

If you're wanting to fix it "good enough" so that you can buy some time to save up some money to do it right, it's possible that you can carefully remove more tile, mortar & drywall until you can get to where there is no more water damage, then rebuild it from there. It's possible.

Bud Cline 09-13-2011 01:22 PM

Well for a DIY project it's going to be a lot longer than three days. Three days ain't gonna happen.

What is going to happen is the plaster walls will continue to experience moisture migration and plaster will continue to bloom under those conditions. The shower is finished but could be made to last a few more years by replacing only the lower 1/3 or so.

The problem with that approach is the plaster must be removed and replacing the plaster isn't a DIY task. So...the next logical thing would be to replace the plaster with cement board. The trouble with that is that plaster was always done free-hand and the thickness varies and isn't easy to match using cement board.

Your best bet is to demo what's there top to bottom and redo it all. But you cannot have it done in three days, that is going to be impossible.:)

sierra1194 09-13-2011 02:20 PM

I have a gut feeling all the tile work
 
I suspect the worse and that all the tile should come out and it needs to be redone, properly. This is what my son had suggested also. I was hoping possibly to salvage and remove possibly the lower 1/3 also but if the section I scraped out is any indication of what the rest of the work quality is, then it's a question of time when 'bloom' starts appearing elsewhere. I suspect that may be what is causing tile board surrounding a tub area in an adjoining apt to 'bloom" as you call it (learn something new everyday). A lot of food for thought here and good advice to boot.

Evidently whoever did the tile work in this apt unit cut corners......which means my son and I will have to go in and redo to get it done right. Or hire someone and oversee them so they do not cut corners.

Bud Cline 09-13-2011 02:23 PM

Interior plasters of yesteryear aren't intended to get wet repeatedly. They do last a surprisingly long time but that is usually because they have been painted many times with lead paint. Once the interior of the process begins to deteriorate from moisture migration, it's all over and just a matter of time.:)


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