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Old 08-14-2011, 02:30 PM   #1
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removing flooring, going with tile


house built in 1958, replaced the main flooring because after I pulled up the plywood subfloor to expose the 1x6s laying diagonal I fell through a couple of spots.....FUN

anywho, Previous home owner carpeted over the hardwood in the home, and over the transition area of hardwood to the vinyl flooring in the kitchen. I know I cant lay tile directly over hardwood due to it alwas expanding and contracting, but can I do it if i screw down a 1/4" conreteboard?

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Old 08-14-2011, 02:50 PM   #2
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No. It has been done but it's a very high failure rate installation. It's considered HACK work.

You're supposed to remove the hardwood, (you'd want to anyway otherwise the floor gets too high). After the hardwood is gone you need to repair/replace the planks as necessary and then install min. 1/2" underlayment grade ply. If the boards are cupped or bowed you may want thicker ply. Then you can install the tile backer into fresh thin set mortar or a mating such as Ditra, then the tiles.

Jaz

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Old 08-20-2011, 10:58 AM   #3
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removing flooring, going with tile


Yep, you will have big problems if you try to cut corners like this. Tile has no sympathy for lazy people. Have you considered pulling the carpet and refinishing the existing wood? A professional wood flooring outfit can generally make an old wood floor look really good, even if it's had carpet put over it. Best of Luck
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Old 08-20-2011, 12:50 PM   #4
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no wood refinishing here. lol.

my only question is, why wouldnt it work? honestly i want to know.

if the concrete board is down and screwed into place, how would that effect the outcome of everything?
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:15 PM   #5
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if the concrete board is down and screwed into place, how would that effect the outcome of everything?
Screwed down to what? It's fastened to the hardwood that is shrinking and expanding all the time.

Ever have a sticky door or drawer when the humidity is high? How about squeaks when it's dry? Ever notice the expansion finger joints on bridges?

It's you choice if you wanna do it wrong so you can save a day prepping the job right. If you were hiring someone you'd want it done right. So what the difference now?

Jaz
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:35 PM   #6
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For one, there's no reason to be a smartass. I simply asked for a reason why it wouldn't work. Yes I understand all about expansion andsuch with the variating temperatures and humidity. But the plywood subfloor would be doing the exact same thing. Instead of being a jackass, why don't you be informative with an answer when someone is seeking help with a logical "want to know" question.
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:20 AM   #7
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You asked for an explanation and he broke it down for you. What's your problem dude? Did you look at the guy's profile? He's been doing tile for 30 years- he knows what he's talking about. We're not here to talk nice to you and stroke your ego. If you can't eat a little humble pie, don't ask for honest opinions.
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:34 AM   #8
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I have seen his profile. And someone with his experiance should help a little more instead of trying to come across as a jackass. I simply want to know why wouldn't the plywood be doing the same thing as the hardwood?
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:40 AM   #9
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Wow! Are you calling BlueStone a smartass for the "lazy people" reference or was that comment meant for me? I certainly didn't expect that from my rather mild mannered comment. It was good advice.

What are you biaching about? Especially for the price charged. Do we owe you something? Anyway, if the the comment was for me, I thank you very much. Better a smartass than a dumb one.

Now, you seem to know that solid wood is very unstable but do not want to believe your own words.

You said;
Quote:
But the plywood subfloor would be doing the exact same thing.
Wrong, no it won't, and that is why plywood was invented. Plywood is much more stable, the plies are oriented in opposite directions for that purpose. To that you add the uncoupling affect of concrete backer or a product such as Ditra, and you've got a floor that will last a lifetime.

Jaz
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:56 AM   #10
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yes do remove the hardwood.than think about the added weight tile will provide?the old joist are going to sag.if you lay 18x18 tile the substraight needs to be perfect,to get it that way over sheet goods will require a large notch trowel and plenty of thin set.you may need to add midspans to the joist system?
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:21 AM   #11
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Ok, well there's no problem wanting to know more but let's not be rude about it, M'kay? Go ahead and set tile right on the hardwood-use mastic and pre-mixed grout. Tile and grout the same day, and use unsanded grout with 1/2" grout lines.

J/K don't do any of that, tear it out, it doesn't take that long and you will have a floor to be proud of for a long time. Good Luck
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Last edited by BlueStoneFloors; 08-22-2011 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:35 AM   #12
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Too funny!

Quote:
Go ahead and set tile right on the hardwood-use mastic and pre-mixed grout. Tile and grout the same day, and use unsanded grout with 1/2" grout lines.
That's a likely scenario if you'd talk to some of the vested clerks at the big box stores. And they get your $$$$, while we do this to help people. Something wrong there.

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Old 08-22-2011, 11:43 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan View Post

Wrong, no it won't, and that is why plywood was invented. Plywood is much more stable, the plies are oriented in opposite directions for that purpose. To that you add the uncoupling affect of concrete backer or a product such as Ditra, and you've got a floor that will last a lifetime.

Jaz
thats what i was looking for. thanks. simply wanted to know WHY it wouldnt work.

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