Hi,
When applying Redgard liquid membrane to a shower pan and cement board walls, do you have to cover all surfaces completely or can I just do the pan and up the walls about 2 feet?
I'm planning on using the redgard as an extra safety precaution over the Kerdi band that I installed in the changes of plane (corners).
Just like CX said in the link you posted, It's a bad idea to do what you're proposing. You're trying to do some king of hybrid installation which has been thought of and analyzed for many years and proclaimed as a bad method.
You don't want a surface membrane when there's a traditional shower pan used.
Why not go with the Kerdi or Laticrete Drain system with surface waterproofing and eliminate all the extra work and potential problems? I personally don't trust liquid membrane to seal a traditional drain. I only use Kerdi with perfect results and much better shower for my people.
What are you using for the waterproofing of the pan? Kerdi Band at the change of planes? What drain did you use?
Is Redguard approved for waterproofing a shower pan?
Pictures and more details please----a paint on waterproofed shower pan needs to have special treatment at the drain----Latacrete has a good video Hydroban shower--
The image I included is how my install will be, except the dry-wall is cement board, there will be kerdi band in the corners, tar-paper behind the cement board. I am wondering if I can only paint up the wall approx. 2 ft only. or am I over-killing the whole thing??
I haven't put the Redgard on and based on what I have learned today it appears to be a Bad idea with what I have in place.
The Kerdi band I used in the corners was what the tile retailer in town had suggested in place of the mesh tape. I understand it cost me more but was willing to except that a long as it works.
The Kerdi Band didn't do anything other than seaming the joint, waterproofing those 5" does nothing for the shower.
Are you gonna stick with the traditional shower floor set up you've started with? Do as you like but, the $10 drain isn't a good reason to not go with the newer method for shower floors such as Kerdi.
So, what's your plan now? Is there a pre-slope under the membrane you now have? In other words did you do two layers on deck mud? Did you protect the weep holes from clogging? How did you fold the corners especially at the curb? How did you build the curb? Did you use concrete backer which means you pocked holes in the membrane? That's where liquid membrane will help, not the shower floor.
So, what's your plan now? Is there a pre-slope under the membrane you now have? In other words did you do two layers on deck mud? Did you protect the weep holes from clogging? How did you fold the corners especially at the curb? How did you build the curb? Did you use concrete backer which means you pocked holes in the membrane? That's where liquid membrane will help, not the shower floor.
My plan is: To use the drain I have in place in the two layers of mud, with the protected weep holes, with great care taken to fold the membrane into the corners (inserted between corner studs, not cut), no holes through membrane with-in 8` of the pan. The wall board is buried in the mortar as shown in the diagram on the previous post. The curb is constructed also as shown with only nails on outside of curb to hold the vinyl in place . I have used the Kerdi-band the tape the joints of the boards, the corners of the walls & again at the wall & pan transition. As pointed out before I WILL NOT use the Redgard.
Have I done anything to this point that would not work out or would cause me any difficulty going forward É
This is a typical mud pan install--if you follow that--there is no need to use redguard on the pan---I do like to see the walls coated---just a good bit of insurance---
I did follow the same procedures. The only difference was I used pea-gravel instead of tile spacers.
My question remains; is the Kerdi band that I used on the pan/wall joint, any cause for concern?
Thanks Mike,
I did follow the same procedures. The only difference was I used pea-gravel instead of tile spacers.
My question remains; is the Kerdi band that I used on the pan/wall joint, any cause for concern? Gate
Bud,
I didn't use wall board on the inside of the curb. It is just wire screen and mortar, approx., 1/2" thk. the same as the wall board on either side of the curb/door-way.
Wow, nice curb----
By the way--square drain covers are available for your drain--easier to tile to---
a plumbing supply house will have them---as well as some tile stores---
Jheeeezh! Now I feel really foolish - Thank You for that!
Why did you post that picture with no comments, we don't need the lesson, you do.
Let's move on and see what other farces we can weave into this thread.
"Two steps forward and three steps back", that's what I always like to do.
Welcome to Dancing with the Stars.
Too funny! I thought those were Harry Dumbar's knees. :laughing:
Since you built a "mud" curb and didn't cut or puncture the membrane except for the outside of the curb, you should be good in that regard.
BTW, you could apply 2-3 coats of Redgard on the top and inside of the curb and up both jambs. As you may know the curb and lower jamb is often the first to "go" when not done right. In your case the Redgard will keep the mud and concrete backer dry.
OK here's the master piece.
I posted the other picture because it was handy and I could show what I had done quickly.
This is picture No. 1 showing the inside corner opposite the business end of the shower. As you can see, it is a 45 degree. this is posing a bit of a problem to me in as much as I am not sure if I should extend the out-side surfaces over the 45 degree face and fill the void with grout .... or .... extend the 45 degree face over the out side surfaces.:confused1:
OK here's the master piece.
I posted the other picture because it was handy and I could show what I had done quickly.
This is picture No. 1 showing the inside corner opposite the business end of the shower. As you can see, it is a 45 degree. this is posing a bit of a problem to me in as much as I am not sure if I should extend the out-side surfaces over the 45 degree face and fill the void with grout .... or .... extend the 45 degree face over the out side surfaces.:confused1:
Here's the way I would do it! I would install the center wall first. Obviously there are going to be some cuts on both sides unless you set that wall-dimension up to accommodate two full tiles. I doubt you did.
But, Before I cut anything I would study the situation and determine how big to make the cuts. This assumes the two angles are perfectly parallel.
When the tiles go in place there will be a happy medium where (if the tiles are cut the right size) the finished surface of each tile will meet the adjacent tile at the tile corner. This way you don't have to cut any angles. The tiles can be spaced to create the proper grout line size and you don't have to work any magic. Not at all difficult this way.
I don't know what kind of saw you are using but I can tell you that when you start cutting angles in tiles the saw blades can drift terribly and screw things up big time.
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