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Old 12-05-2010, 07:34 PM   #1
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question on tile shower design


i keep floating back and forth on doing a tile shower in my small bathroom. i have a few questions though

the walls look very simple since you just use a vapor barrier, hardi and tile. it's the base.

i looked at http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html

and get the idea of base construction but am curious what the thinset sticks to in this open mortar bed. also drain leakage looks much more difficult than a standard base. this of course leads me to question number 2

what if a guy bought a kohler base installed it, then ran the hardi over the edge of the base and tiled ? it would be a conventional base with tile walls. using carrera white marble the coloring wouldn't be half bad

thoughts? ideas?

i noticed there really aren't that many tile shower threads on here

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Old 12-06-2010, 11:15 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racebum View Post
what if a guy bought a kohler base installed it, then ran the hardi over the edge of the base and tiled ? it would be a conventional base with tile walls....
Yes, you can use a premade shower receptor and tile the walls.
I am in the process of redoing my shower. I didn't want a tiled floor, so I am keeping my old receptor and am just tiling the walls.

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Old 12-06-2010, 03:40 PM   #3
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you know i just talked to a guy about this last night who did the same. bought a base and ran hardi over the side flanges then tiled. made a lot of sense since the hardi and tile are installed in the same way you would flash a roof. it's water tight by design and you don't have to mess with getting a good seal on that mortar bed floor
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:58 PM   #4
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A hand packed,tiled base is a lot of work and must be done correctly----

The Kohler bases are very nice and easy to maintain --you should find several posts here describing exactly what you want to do.

For extra insurance against early failure--consider using Hydroban or Redguard over the backer before tiling---Mike--
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:07 PM   #5
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Well I won't say it wasn't alot of work, but it was worth every bit of time.

http://www.tools4flooring.com/quick-...inage-kit.html

As far a bonding tiles to floor its just quick set, I used the marble quick set for mine, more expensive, but better quality.
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Old 12-06-2010, 09:35 PM   #6
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I would use a manufactured shower receptor myself. That other looks very ambitious for DIY but I imagine it can be done. I would be constantly worrying about that leaking. I am sort of considering the Kohler Salient cast iron for my other bathroom. I just wished they looked more attractive and less like a bath tub with the sides missing. I do like the durability of cast irom though.
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:13 PM   #7
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the friend i just spoke with did a shower using a base like this

http://fp.vendaria.com/vpop/VpopView...tle=&pf=t&fr=t

then hardi on the walls and tile over. the tile flashes over the side of the shower base

i agree the mud bed looks challenging without being walked through by a pro the first time. that's what gets me. most construction isn't hard if you have good training. that is one thing i don't know anyone that's trained to do. i just think back to framing walls and how helpful it was to have a carpenter train me. had i not it would have been REAL easy to make mistakes just following a guide.

just so i have this in my head

let's assume we have this base in and studs on 3 sides

from what i gather you

1. tar paper the studs
2. screw 1/2" hardi or durock
3. here's where i'm iffy, is this where a guy would use redbond to seal or?

a quick 1,2,3,4,5 till grout would make this really easy to wrap my head around

the floor of the bathroom is here, same tile i plan on using when i do the shower, looks like it would match a white base really well



yes that old vanity is getting pulled

Last edited by racebum; 12-06-2010 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 12-07-2010, 09:01 AM   #8
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question on tile shower design


You want to use the tar paper OR the redgard. Not both. If you do both you risk trapping moisture between the two.

Check out Bud's Blog, it will explain it all a bit better than I could.

http://www.diychatroom.com/blogs/con...wer-walls-152/

Edited to add: You might also check out johnbridge.com. It is a great site for all things tiling.

Last edited by Blondesense; 12-07-2010 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:58 AM   #9
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tar paper or 6 mil poly but you would not want to use either in addition to Red Guard. For a shower I would want the walls waterproofed as opposed to behind the walls. So I would prefer to use Red Guard or Hydroban as Mike suggested.
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Old 12-09-2010, 12:44 AM   #10
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well hell, i read that and for a budget shower i see a pro / con thing with either waterproofing the cement board with redguard or felt paper on the studs

the tar paper idea has that added benefit of a vapor barrier, it's cheap. easy to get right since you just overlap from the bottom up just like you would paper a roof. the only con i see is that you have to be careful not to tear it when you install the hardiboard for 100% effectiveness.

any real world draw backs to this method i should be aware of? i like the simplicity of it
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Old 12-09-2010, 06:18 PM   #11
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The only drawback that comes to mind if you waterproof behind the backer board is if your grout fails the water will leak through the Hardibacker, run down the tar paper and find it's way down to whatever is beneath your shower. With the waterproofing on the board, any water that gets through the grout will stay of the shower side and go down the drain.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:04 AM   #12
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FWIW, I went with a roll on waterproofing because I had a window in my shower.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:16 PM   #13
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well, here's what i don't get about paint on waterproof. if i hang the hardi, what do you do with the cracks between boards? do you just run everything really tight, then roll on the redguard? if i kept my gaps under 1/16th would it just fill in?
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:21 PM   #14
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All joints and junctures require seam tape.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:51 PM   #15
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ah ha, the missing link. from the way i visualize this with hardi, seam tape, then redguard. if i run the hardi just over the lip of the shower when i install the entire shower still would be waterproof without any tile or grout. this makes a lot of sense and don't seem too hard to pull off. thanks guys, just saved me the trial and error learning method

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