OH NO!! Again?! I Used Mega Bond Latacrete Brand Mortar But Not The Additive Now What - Tiling, ceramics, marble - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


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Old 07-24-2012, 06:10 PM   #1
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


I thought I checked this out before buying it but either grabbed the wrong bag or got wrog info.

Latacrete brand thinset the magabond says to add this other stuff to it. where the other bags just water.

I already have a lot of the job done. I called the company and he says hard requires the latex additive and porcelain tiles do also.

The tiles are on a wall around the tub and shower. The company guy said could watch it but the might come loose. i cant watch it.

Any experience out there that knows if the this holds fine with just water?

The cost is not all that high what bothers me the most is huge time loss that I cant afford.

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Old 07-25-2012, 12:54 AM   #2
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


Can you translate your post to English and while doing so tell us what kind of tiles you used and what it's bonded to. It sounds like you used Laticrete's Megabond thin set.

Jaz

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Old 07-25-2012, 10:29 AM   #3
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


Porcelain tile on hardi backer with red gaurd and megabond thin set, laticrete brand. Wall around tub and shower.

I used water and megabond says on the package, best if you use there additive with it. The store people said he heard it both ways, that some say it is just as good with just water. the company support guy said it might come lose. It is on the wall so comeing lose is not good.

Last edited by papason; 07-25-2012 at 12:06 PM. Reason: forgot to add
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:45 PM   #4
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


Well....it's best you start over. Redgard liquid membrane requires a modified thin set to bond tile to. Unmodified might work too, but if it does I'm sure the bond will not be as good. In addition, although it's possible to get a good enough bond with unmodified to porcelain, porcelain requires modified thin set too. So, Strike 2. Best to fix it now, much easier.

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Old 07-25-2012, 04:01 PM   #5
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


Thanks jazz.

I wish it was easy and fast and not messy too. Well while I am wishing,... I wish somebody would do it well and for free.
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Old 07-26-2012, 02:00 AM   #6
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


any help on making this easier? I was wondering about putting a 1/4 inch board over the top if ther is room for my valve and all.?
there is unmodified thinset on most of it I could add more so was fairly consitent. but since it is not expected to stick long what if it starts crumbling later?

the thing is How am i gonna get the screws out? they are coverd in red gaurd and mortar. removing the Hardi board sounds AWFULL. can you screw hardi to hardi? thinking might miss the studs.
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Old 07-26-2012, 01:34 PM   #7
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


Are the tiles still up? Maybe you should have removed them a couple-a-daze ago? You should be able to remove the tiles while keeping the Hardie, hopefully.

1/4" CBU is not a good plan for walls, not stiff enough since you can only fasten 16" on center. Plus you're create other problems with edging the ends. No, you can not screw Hardie to Hardie or any other CBU. CBU's have no grain, if you drive a nail or screw into it, it's like drilling a hole.

First you wanted someone to do it for you free, now looking for easy way. STOP being a liberal and get to work!

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Old 07-26-2012, 01:41 PM   #8
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


The tiles are off they came off easy. But there is all the mortar left on there that does not come off easy. Finding all the screws is another thing. that is why I wondered about just laying 1/4 sheet on top of the old board mortar and all.

Do ya think I could get a liberal to do it for me?
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Old 07-26-2012, 01:51 PM   #9
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


Quote:
Do ya think I could get a liberal to do it for me?
Absolutely not, I doubt it, but try, cuz there's probably many around you.

I don't see why you couldn't scrape most of the thin set off with a stiff/sharp tool like a wallpaper scraper, http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...9QEwAw&dur=831 then rough sand a bit. Then apply a coat of Redgard followed by the correct thin set and tiles.

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Old 07-26-2012, 04:45 PM   #10
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


1, that is lots of labor, already did that earlyer mistake.
It does not come of willingly.

2. My thinking is, if I had to start over cause I mixed it wrong then it is not good enough to lay proper mix over.

3. Will advertise for fee liberal labor and let you know if any show up.
Maybe one of those cardboard holders at Walmart?
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Old 07-26-2012, 06:23 PM   #11
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


I'm glad you have a sense of humor.

OK, start over then. cut between the studs and rip out the hardie, you'll see the screws soon enough.

BTW, how are you treating the Hardie-to-tub area? Shimming out or stopping at the hanging flange?

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Old 07-26-2012, 07:51 PM   #12
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


Not familiar with the shimming out?

I was stopping just above the tub 1/4 to 1/2 inch about 3/8 realy. Is this good?

I would like ot know about the shimming, is it a better or preferred method?
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:11 PM   #13
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


Do you have a basic steel tub with the hanging flange on the 3 sides? If so, you have to stop the backer just short of the flange like I think you did. But then you have to seal that gap with silicone or caulk, but you'll still have a hollow area. It may not matter depending on the size of the tiles.

Alternatively, you can/should shim the backer out about 1/4" so the backer will clear the flange and come inside the tub within 1/4" of the shoulder part you see after the tiles are set. Follow? This presents a situation on the ends though, and may require an alternative way to trim it out. In the old days they made "mud-bullnose" to match, now the tile situation is much different.

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Old 07-27-2012, 01:45 AM   #14
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OH NO!! again?! I used mega bond latacrete brand mortar but not the additive now what


Ok ya, I get it. this tub only has the flange on 2 sides. was going to just have the end tiles a bit lower than than the other two walls.

Also I thought I could just caulk under the tiles. Thats my understanding of how its done. I have noticed you know this stuff well, so tell me more.

Now that it is being redone Again, I was going to put all three down the same and do like you said and come over the flange. This tub is from 1954 or earlier. Originaly had wrap around curtain. Built a wall at the end now.

Got it all off, not too bad. a bit tedious. I might do a thread explaining that.

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