Needs lots of help
:thumbup:Hi deee to all,
Me and my husband are in the process of remodeling a 1950's wood frame home. My questions are on "tile". A friend of mine has given us a lot of tile. I would love to use it but not sure how...lol.. any whoo.. I would love to put it in the bathroom and kitchen (if I have enough). I know I'll have enough for the bathroom.. Anyway.. She's telling me that she's done tile and her son has for years and that all I have to do is put thin set on the NEW plywood floor we installed and then lay the tile.. Note: This is an old house setting up on blocks...The floor of the house is OLD tongue and groove real wood flooring. We put the plywood directlly over the old floor to firm the floor up. It might be important to know also that the orginal wood floor of the house is the only thing seperating the inside of the house from the "ground outside" there is NOTHING inbetween.
I'm thinking and have done some research and everything I've looked at is telling me that I "HAVE" to use backer board. Is this correct...? :huh:
My mind set is: This is our first house, We've already done soooo much work on it and I want it done right, and I'm NOT "cutting corners" just to get by or to speed up the process.
Question 2 is: Do you have to do anything special to tile a wall? I've seen different ones installing small tile on the wall in the kitchen and bathroom but it looks like to me they put the grout on the wall and just start laying tile...(no special backer board needed)... Is that all, to tile a wall? Can you use any size tile on the wall also?
Question 3: If you want a kitchen or any other room tiled, do you have the same steps as tiling a bathroom?
Tiled Challenged :jester:
i'm presently building a house and i'm in a dilemma of what king of galvanized roofing i will install. Whether the "ribtile" type or the "hi-rib type". Can you give your comments about this type of GI roofings?
Yep, post the question in the roofing section!!!!
You are absolutely correct, do not install directly over plywood, needs to have a backer. There are a lot of variables to making a long lasting floor that need to be figured before u start,
1) Floor Joist size,spacing, and span for deflection
2) Thickness of plywood subfloor and how many layers deflection again
3) Type of tile ( Ceramic, Porcelain, Natural Stone)
My standard construction: ( Assuming Jost Spacing and Spans r ok)
1) 3/4" Plywood nailed to joists
2) 5/8" Plywood field nailed independant of floor joists 3/4" if there is room
3) Install 1/4" Hardibacker with Modified thinset w/ 1/4" x 1/4" notched trowel nail off 8" oc field and 6" oc edge pattern
4)Tile floor using modified thinset, and never mastic.
Very simplified but u get the idea.
As for bathrooms, never use greenboard as a substrate for tile in a wet area such as a tub Surround, or shower stall. Use Denshield, DensGuard, Or similar product. I always use a Waterproofing membrane ( Such as Redguard, or WaterTite) to address my joints in the substrate. I dont endorse the use of mastic here either, but some may argue that point I only use thinset. Tile bath wall wainscoat I will occasionally use mastic.
Tile over drywall, I prefer to have it primed prior to install, just the way I was taught, I do really know if it matters or not, just a quirk that in 15 years I have never questioned, and never had a problem with the install.
Hope this helps !!!!!!
Thanks so much I knew it was not as simple and grout and tile. That floor (house) is old and would flex when you walked on it. We put, I think 5/8 plywood down and that helped a lot. I know the house is soild because as we were working on it we found many heart of pine 2x4's for studs and the outside siding is cypress lap siding... It's going to be a great strong little house. Thanks for the help
The only thing I would add to what Trace said is to make sure to offset the joints in the backerboard (esp. avoiding 4 corners meeting up) and tape the joints with fiberglass mesh tape and seal with thinset. To do this, just put down the mesh tape and skim coat thinset over it using a 4"-8" drywall knife. Allow to dry for 24hrs., then tile away.
Also (and this is just a matter of preference) I use Rock-On screws rather than nails to put the backerboard down.
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