JOIN DIYCHATROOM TODAY!

organick · 09-04-2009, 12:31 AM

I am tiling a shower. Just the 3 walls around it. I'm going to put 1/4 cement board over the drywall and then tile. My question is how to hide the edges of the cement board. I dont know if the tile I am using has an matchign edge tile that would wrap the corner. I want it to look really finished and not half a**ed. Any help??

Bud Cline · 09-04-2009, 08:25 AM

Quote:

I want it to look really finished and not half a**ed.

Then what you are proposing isn't the way to do it.

JazMan · 09-04-2009, 10:18 PM

Hey Nick,

Where did you get the bright idea of doing the job that way? Can you please STOP, and start from the beginning with an explanation of what you've got. Also tell us how the shower floor in being built.

Jaz

organick · 09-04-2009, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bud Cline

Then what you are proposing isn't the way to do it.

I suppose this is when you tell me the drywall has to be cut out and the backer put directly on the studs?????? I guess I just didn't see a big issue with putting it over the drywall. The tub/shower is existing. I am just planning on tiling the 3 walls surrounding..... As long as I am here and assume thats what you are going to say. Do i tile just to the edge of the backer and if so how do I make that seem between the backer and the drywall looked finished again? Any other suggesstions you all have would be appreciated.

Bud Cline · 09-05-2009, 04:31 PM

Quote:

I suppose this is when you tell me the drywall has to be cut out and the backer put directly on the studs?????? I guess I just didn't see a big issue with putting it over the drywall.

Didja know that no tile installation is waterproof?
Didja know that water will easily wick its way through the grout?
Didja know that cement board is not waterproof and anxiously wicks water?
Didja know that drywall can't last when it gets wet?

Quote:

Do i tile just to the edge of the backer and if so how do I make that seem between the backer and the drywall looked finished again?

Now theres' the million dollar question genius. It finally hit you that you can't do what you are doing the way you want to do it.

There are tiles available that will turn the corner for you. They are called "mud-cap" but these days they are in very limited supply. There is an identifying number for them but I can't remember what it is.

You won't find them at you corner big box store either.

Quote:

Any other suggesstions you all have would be appreciated.

I doubt it!

Quickdraw · 09-05-2009, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by organick

I suppose this is when you tell me the drywall has to be cut out and the backer put directly on the studs?????? I guess I just didn't see a big issue with putting it over the drywall. The tub/shower is existing. I am just planning on tiling the 3 walls surrounding..... As long as I am here and assume thats what you are going to say. Do i tile just to the edge of the backer and if so how do I make that seem between the backer and the drywall looked finished again? Any other suggesstions you all have would be appreciated.

organick, you have to excuse Bud, he knows what he's doing but is the resident smarta** so often times isn't much help.

JazMan · 09-06-2009, 11:17 AM

I'm sure Bud would agree that he is a smart a** at times.

Well, I'm a smart a** too. I always say......"Better a smart ass, than a dumb ass!"

Ask specific questions. What part of Bud's answer do you disagree with?

Jaz

Bud Cline · 09-06-2009, 12:09 PM

I was saving this but maybe I should get it in the conversation before it's too late.

Should one wise up and choose to remove the drywall afterall and install the cement board against the studs as it should be in this case.............

Then one would also want to know that a moisture barrier is required on the studs before the cement board is installed.

The alternative method (now that the cement board has replaced the drywall)...(and we all know it has) is to use a liquid waterproofing on the surfcae of the cement board.

Pisser ain't it!

Quickdraw · 09-06-2009, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JazMan

I'm sure Bud would agree that he is a smart a** at times.

Well, I'm a smart a** too. I always say......"Better a smart ass, than a dumb ass!"

Ask specific questions. What part of Bud's answer do you disagree with?

Jaz

I guess you are calling me a dumb ass then? I've asked Bud specific questions before and have never gotten a straight answer without some snide remark. Like his 9/5/09 3:31 post on this thread - but then if you are a smart ass of course you will defend him. In case you smart asses don't know this is a suposed to be a place where novices come to ask questions. If you guys are too smart for the rest of us you should find a trade forum for professionals where you can impress each other with how much you know.

Bud Cline · 09-06-2009, 03:36 PM

Quote:

In case you smart asses don't know this is a suposed to be a place where novices come to ask questions.

And they do. They also get straight answers and the best state of the art information available from a few of us. The humor is a bonus and surely by now you have noticed the cost is the same for the humor as it is for the legitimate advice. Some people think all of this is owed to them. That's democrats for you, always thinking they are entitled to something.

Quote:

If you guys are too smart for the rest of us you should find a trade forum for professionals where you can impress each other with how much you know.

That's what we do here.

There are plenty of lessor websites available, maybe those with the most dissatisfaction should seek out the more novice sites. You guys should be thanking your lucky stars that people like us are willing to work all week then come to a place like this to help those that should be paying someone like us to do the work. We aren't encroaching on your professions.

Quickdraw · 09-06-2009, 05:03 PM

Example of Bud CLine "Straight answer": Shower celing material?

Is that where your attitude comes from? That we aren't hiring you to do the job?

I'm the "subject matter expert" on another forum and I have never, ever, belittled anyone for asking questions that they didn't know the answer to, but that I did. Not ever.

JazMan · 09-06-2009, 10:02 PM

Quick,

I don't mean to call you dumb at all. Just trying to say that being a smart a** is OK.

So......this project is NOT a shower after all, it's a tub with a shower. Makes a big difference. How did your other project work out? The other was a shower and I don't approve of the way you buried the Densguard in the shower instead of the way the directions tells us to do it. Did you find the directions I linked?

Jaz

Quickdraw · 09-06-2009, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JazMan

Quick,

I don't mean to call you dumb at all. Just trying to say that being a smart a** is OK.

So......this project is NOT a shower after all, it's a tub with a shower. Makes a big difference. How did your other project work out? The other was a shower and I don't approve of the way you buried the Densguard in the shower instead of the way the directions tells us to do it. Did you find the directions I linked?

Jaz

I don't know where you got the idea I buried the Densguard in the shower pan... The project got delayed a week to wait for a Kerdi drain because I backed out of the preslope/rubber membrane/slope and will go with the Kerdi. The Densguard will stay 1/4 off the Kerdi and I will caulk it. For the ceiling I went with drywall and the Zinzer Perma-white paint. Three coats. Thank you for your advice on that.

JazMan · 09-06-2009, 11:55 PM

OK, I didn't know you switched gears and went with Kerdi. From what you said though it's not clear that the Kerdi Membrane is also going up the walls and will cover the Densguard.

It sounds like you only plan to install Kerdi on the floor, then caulk the gaps between the Kerdi and the Densguard. If those are your plans, that is wrong. Just checking.

Jaz

Quickdraw · 09-07-2009, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JazMan

OK, I didn't know you switched gears and went with Kerdi. From what you said though it's not clear that the Kerdi Membrane is also going up the walls and will cover the Densguard.

It sounds like you only plan to install Kerdi on the floor, then caulk the gaps between the Kerdi and the Densguard. If those are your plans, that is wrong. Just checking.

Jaz

I haven't poured the mortor floor yet but only plan to run the Kerdi up the walls about four inches and put the Densguard over that to overlap. In addition to leaving the Densguard off the floor 1/4" I will paint the raw Densguard bottom edge with Laticrete liquid waterporoofing membrane before caulking the joint. I am also painting all the Densguard seams and screw hole with this same Laticrete stuff. Would there be a problem with this? Is there a way water or moisture could get behiind the walls or into the mortor bed?

I'll call the Schuter people tomorrow to ask why the Kerdi directions state they do not want the Kerdi wrapped over a "sawn wood curb" (thats what I have - one pressure treated 2x4 with two more regular 2x4s on top of that).