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Old 06-25-2013, 06:21 AM   #16
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My First Shower Pan


I always considered 1/4" to flexable for wall tile---

I do not use Hardibacker at all---so I will have to leave this question for the manufacturer--If they approve the use for walls, then you are good---they are the ultimate experts on that product,Call their technical help line.-Mike-

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Old 06-25-2013, 06:22 AM   #17
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Ok, the next question is..... What is wrong with 1/4" hardibacker?
On a wall I believe it lacks the rigidity to support tile. On a floor 1/4 is supported by the substrate. On a wall, it's got just the studs.
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:39 AM   #18
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[QUOTE=ddawg16;1206732]Ok, the next question is..... What is wrong with 1/4" hardibacker?[/QUOTE]

Basically .... it means "no playin around in the shower"


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Old 06-25-2013, 08:47 AM   #19
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I always considered 1/4" to flexable for wall tile---

I do not use Hardibacker at all---so I will have to leave this question for the manufacturer--If they approve the use for walls, then you are good---they are the ultimate experts on that product,Call their technical help line.-Mike-
Thanks Mike....

See post 8....that came off the Hardibacker web site.

So as I understand it....if I keep my stud spacing at 16" or less (which it is), and screw/nail as noted....they say it's ok. At this point...I'm not changing it....it actually feels pretty rigid....

Now I have to decide what to do upstairs for the other shower. The stud spacing on that is way less than 16" in 80% of the stud bays. I only have two stud bays that are 16".

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Old 06-25-2013, 09:02 AM   #20
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Dawg.... I'll bet you'll be allright with the 1/4 where it's installed.

Just honest talk, I've allways used 1/2 (is that Hardi 500?) in shower walls, and never considered or seen 1/4 used. (Never thought to consider it or check manufacturer rec's)

Guess I kinda did not understand your issue with getting walls flush.... if it was an issue of avoiding the cost of bullnose finish tile..... I sometimes just use a molding to finish (maybe 1/4 round or whatever).

Your tile base looked nice... of course the real test will be to check if you have any puddling.... I sure have nevermastered that job....

Good going

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Old 06-25-2013, 09:08 AM   #21
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Dawg.... Also.... My son in Dana did not have a bench in his shower....

so when you have hot mop, how do you finish the bench.... do you sheath that in hardi, redguard, then tile?
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:32 AM   #22
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The bench will get done like the dam....

Shape and lay the screen on the bench and sides...then float the mortar....I can give the bench a slight slope to make sure it drains off. When I built it, it already had a slight slope to the front so that water won't stay on the tar.

I've talked to several tile guys here and they don't have a lot of good things to say about redguard.....in their opinion, people put too much faith in it.

Regarding the Hardibacker.....I have 3 4x8 sheets of 1/4" left....I guess I just use it on the floor....and go pick up some 500 for the upstairs shower....
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:10 PM   #23
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Dawg,

I'd be interested in know where you found that quote in the Hardie literature. This one; Yes, HardieBacker 1/4'' cement board may be used in a shower. However, we recommend HardieBacker 500 if you need to make a smooth transition to drywall. The board must be mechanically fastened every 8'' on center to the wood or metal studs spaced a maximum of 16'' on center.

I'd like to read why they mention a shower and also mention max stud spacing of 16" o.c. Why is a shower different? And under what conditions are studs ever allowed to be spaced more than 16" o.c.?

I'm not sure how you're gonna install the lath under the mud for the bench without puncturing your waterproofing. How are you gonna install the Hardie below the bench, in other words you do plan on using Redgard or something, right? This is a perfect case of why surface waterproofing is the way to go and skip all that other wasted waterproofing effort.

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Old 06-26-2013, 12:03 AM   #24
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Jaz.....here is the link....on the right side towards the bottom, click on the round FAQ button....then scroll down to the question....
"Can Hardibacker 1/4" board be used on a shower wall application? Is a vapor barrier required?"

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...iebacker.shtml
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:17 AM   #25
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I'm not sure how you're gonna install the lath under the mud for the bench without puncturing your waterproofing. How are you gonna install the Hardie below the bench, in other words you do plan on using Redgard or something, right? This is a perfect case of why surface waterproofing is the way to go and skip all that other wasted waterproofing effort.

Jaz
On the lath....I'll just cut out a piece of to match the shape of the seat along with another piece to match the front.

I'll then mix up my mortar....and push it into the lath....pretty easy actually.

The hot mop is about 1/4" thick. If what I tried to cut out of the drain is any indication as to how tough it is.....it's going to take a lot to get through it. 3-layers of tar paper....with generous applications of tar between each layer.
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:51 AM   #26
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Dawg.... I'm not suggesting such... just inquiring... but don't you have to staple your lath onto the vertical part of the bench... maybe also on the horizontal.... sorta like a NewJersey mudd job?

Does mud bond to hot mop?
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:20 PM   #27
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Dawg.... I'm not suggesting such... just inquiring... but don't you have to staple your lath onto the vertical part of the bench... maybe also on the horizontal.... sorta like a NewJersey mudd job?

Does mud bond to hot mop?
Only if it does not stay in place. I'm using that stuff that holds the shape pretty good. Additionally, I'll be running the edges up under the wall board so that should hold it in place.

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