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Old 06-23-2013, 12:46 AM   #1
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My First Shower Pan


I just finished my first mortar bed for my shower. Learned a few things....like....dam....it's hard work....my arms hurt.....

Contrary to how 'most' of you guys do showers....mine is a hot mop.

So...once the hot mop was done...I fur'd out the walls a 1/4"....applied my vapor barrier...hung the hardibacker so that it was about 1/4-1/2" from the hot moped floor.



I installed my screen for the dam..



Mixed up my mortar and got to it....

This is my quick calc using the wall....had to make sure I had the right slope....the furthest wall is 4'...at 1/4"/ft....that is one inch.....measured from the drain up to the ceiling.....did the math and then marked a line on the wall.



A few notes about the mortar.....that mixing blade that goes in the drill is worth every penny......

You don't want it mortar wet....just enough water so that it gets that dark gray.....if water comes to the surface when you trowel....it's way too wet....

And the result....





I think I got it pretty good....but because of the angle it was hard to get in there. I had a chunk of plywood I could stand on to get the back....but it's hard on the knees....especially at my age....

Of course I won't know how good I got it until we actually put down tile....do they make a trowel with a 1" depth?

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Old 06-23-2013, 01:55 AM   #2
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My First Shower Pan


Did you put the pre-slope under the hotmop? I can't tell from your description.

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Old 06-23-2013, 10:29 AM   #3
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Is that 1/4 hardibacker on the walls. I don't recall the 1/2 having the stamped grid.
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:32 AM   #4
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that curb. what is under the wire and did you slope it in or out ?
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:38 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarpenterSFO View Post
Did you put the pre-slope under the hotmop? I can't tell from your description.
The hot mop guy did.

Yes....1/4" hardibacker all around

Slope? Yes... Just a slight one. The 'plan' is for the door to be flush on the inside so that water does not get on the dam in the first place
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:51 AM   #6
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I'm not a pro but I thought 1/4 isn't strong enough for walls.
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawg
Yes....1/4" hardibacker all around
Quote:
Originally Posted by djlandkpl
I'm not a pro but I thought 1/4 isn't strong enough for walls.
Yup, 1/4" is not for walls. And why is the shower work being done before there's wallboard on the rest of the walls, the jambs especially?

Quote:
Originally Posted by from all Hardie literature
HardieBacker 1/4'' board for floors and countertops is America´s best selling 1/4'' board.
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DITRA Installs - KERDI Watertight-Mold-Free Showers. I have NEVER made a mistake, I thought I did ONCE, but, I was WRONG! A+ BBB rating - est. 1987 - over 50 yrs. exp.

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Old 06-24-2013, 01:27 AM   #8
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Also from Hardibacker...

Quote:
Yes, HardieBacker 1/4'' cement board may be used in a shower. However, we recommend HardieBacker 500 if you need to make a smooth transition to drywall. The board must be mechanically fastened every 8'' on center to the wood or metal studs spaced a maximum of 16'' on center. A vapor barrier is needed if required by local building codes.
Given that my studs are less than 16" OC....I'm not in the least worried about flex.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:13 PM   #9
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So the next question is.....or series of questions....

Is there code that covers the thickness?

It would appear the Hardibacker 500 is the 'suggested' thickness....is that what everyone else uses?

Because I'm having to fur out my walls 1/4"....if I use Hardibacker 500....my walls will no longer be flush and I will have to use a bull nose tile on the edges....is that the norm?
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post
So the next question is.....or series of questions....

Is there code that covers the thickness?

It would appear the Hardibacker 500 is the 'suggested' thickness....is that what everyone else uses?

Because I'm having to fur out my walls 1/4"....if I use Hardibacker 500....my walls will no longer be flush and I will have to use a bull nose tile on the edges....is that the norm?
Can't answer the code question.

I used 500 when I did my two tub surrounds. I shimmed out the drywall where it met the Hardiebacker so it was flush. Depending upon the length of the wall, you could shim the drywall in small increments so the joint is flush and you don't have a jog in your drywall. (Hope this makes sense).
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:32 PM   #11
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dj....I totally understand what your saying....but both my wife and I have good eyes for straight lines.....I suspect it would bug us to no end....1/4" over 30"....yea, I could make that up in grout lines....1/2 or more over the same distance....it would kill be every time I used the shower.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:35 PM   #12
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Can you post a pic of the affected area?
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:46 PM   #13
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The pics pretty much show everything.

If you measure the width at the bottom and all the way up....it does not vary by more than 1/8"...walls are straight...corners are straight.

If you look at the last pic....you will see raw studs. Once I do drywall...they will line up exactly.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:30 PM   #14
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I see it now in the last pic. I think you can shim the drywall. Once the tile is up and painted I think you would have a hard time seeing the shimming.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:00 PM   #15
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Ok, the next question is..... What is wrong with 1/4" hardibacker?

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