Holy cow! Bad info in this thread....here we go again..
Pure-energy, do NOT listen to some of the answers you see above, they seem to be given by nice people that just don't know. I guess that's the nicest way to put it.
yes it will hold... but if was me doing the job, i'll go with mesh and scratch coat,
This statement is hogwash. "Scratch-coat" aka "Jersey-Mud" has been tested many times and has FAILED EVERY test. The TCNA and it's Canadian cousin org. have never been able to get this method to hold up when subjected to their standard "Robinson" testing procedures for tile floor installation. It's a lousy way to set tiles, popular in parts of the US east coast and parts of Canada, esp. the Toronto area. It's pushed cuz it's cheaper although the customer may not necessarily pay less.
No real tile-setter professional would do that kind of work.
you might consider removing the glue with a commercial glue dissolving product.
Another wrong answer. Using solvents is highly NOT recommended since it'll drive the adhesive AND the bond-breaking solvent further into the substrate. That is exactly the opposite of what you want. Solvents are also kinda dangerous, they tend to burn or even go BOOOOOM!
If you can remove the underlayment, replace it with 1/4" hardi backer.
Well, that's right...except it's not "IF", you should removed the 1/4" underlayment to follow expert recommendations.
I generally use liquid nails around the perimeter and in parallel rows, then nail down with 1-1/2" galv roofing nails.
That is completely wrong. You must install ALL CBU's into a layer of thin set mortar.
Do not use luan plywood. It will fail over time.
You got that right, so why did you suggest to leave the old luaun in the subfloor sandwich? It's not recommended to have it under the CBU either.
I'm leaning towards removing the 1/4" underlayment and putting down new 5/8" ply over the existing ply... Which will theoretically reduce any bounce, right?
Good move pure_energy, :thumbup: You can get away with a thinner plywood than 5/8", but the more the better. HOWEVER, I recommend you set the tiles over a CBU or special matting made for tile. I do NOT recommend you tiling direct over ply.. :no:
That being said, if i proceed with that do i:
A: Use mortar between the ply sheets and tape/mortar the seams? And screws...
NO!
B: Use construction adhesive between ply sheets and screws? Tape seams?
NO!
C: will only screws suffice?
:thumbup:
check this website
http://www.jnstoneinc.com/products-ins.html you will see what i mean with mesh and scratch coat...
Total garbage. That system only works good enough for walls as shown. Speaking of which all that amateur nonsense is driving me up the wall now. :laughing:
Come on people, if you don't know the right way, take courses, attend trade seminars, take a course at the CTEF in S.C. read the TCNA manual or something! The average DIY'er is liable to believe what is written here since they assume we are all professionals.
Sorry Nathan, (moderator) couldn't let that go, it would make this forum look silly!
Jaz