DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Tiling, ceramics, marble (http://www.diychatroom.com/f84/)
-   -   Ideas for tiling around out-of-square window (http://www.diychatroom.com/f84/ideas-tiling-around-out-square-window-170948/)

Andiy 02-03-2013 10:13 PM

Ideas for tiling around out-of-square window
 
1 Attachment(s)
I've begun a gut rehab of a 100 year old bathroom, and I'm going nice and slow to make sure everything is done right. I'm at the point now where I am preparing the room for tile. We put in a new glassblock window in the shower, on an exterior brick wall. There are 3 courses of bricks, so the wall is plenty thick, and then there is the framing I built on that, so you can see a nice deep recess for the pending shelf. Check this picture. If you notice up in the upper right hand corner, the mortar line is thicker on the right versus the left - it seems that the window is out of square or set out of level. There is a ~5/16" difference from left to the right. I've rechecked many many times, and the framed area I built and covered with Hardi is quite square and level. I'm afraid when I go to tile over the Hardi, the line between the glass and the tile will be noticeable as they won't run parallel. Any ideas how to camouflage that? I've got a horribly critical eye, and I know I will see it every time I'm in the bathroom.

oh'mike 02-04-2013 07:10 AM

Give us a little help---check the window with a level----also stand back further so we can see the wall to the right----that window is square---so the framing os out of whack somewhere

Andiy 02-04-2013 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 1109149)
Give us a little help---check the window with a level----also stand back further so we can see the wall to the right----that window is square---so the framing os out of whack somewhere

Thanks for the reply. It's a little tricky to get an accurate reading on the window, but it appears that the glass block is set a little off level, although it doesn't show as much on the bottom as it does on the top for some reason. (One part of this bathroom that wasn't entirely DIY :mad: ) I do know how to read a tape measure and a level though, and after checking for the 47th time, I can tell you that the surfaces in the opening are square, level, and plumb (Except for a 3/8" slope from the window out to the tub, to allow for water run off). See, that would have been an easy fix. I'd really not rather drop the top piece of Hardi to match the window, as it will mess up the alignment on the tile on the wall above the window. :furious:

Anyway, the question still remains - how to adapt the tile / grout / whatever to cover that a bit. I suppose I could split the difference by dropping the right side of the Hardi a tiny bit. But that seems like a cheesy way to do it though... I dunno.

oh'mike 02-04-2013 11:25 AM

Adding a 1/4" piece of backer over the right hand side would help---then the tile will almost touch the edge of the glass----

Just a thought----Tile is so darn flat and square that trying to hide that will be difficult or impossible--

Be sure to pay extra attention to the waterproofing in that window---What are you planning on using?

Andiy 02-04-2013 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 1109331)
Adding a 1/4" piece of backer over the right hand side would help---then the tile will almost touch the edge of the glass----

Just a thought----Tile is so darn flat and square that trying to hide that will be difficult or impossible--

Be sure to pay extra attention to the waterproofing in that window---What are you planning on using?

Thanks again for the quick response! I was planning on using mesh and thinset in the corners/seams, and Redguard over the Hardi - after cleaning it well and applying a primer coat first. That outside edge of the hardi butts right into the exterior brick wall, so that would have to be filled in well with thinset too.

Right?

oh'mike 02-04-2013 12:04 PM

Yep---pack all cracks and openings with thinset---then red guard--if mesh is needed get tilers mesh --drywall mesh does not work with the cement--it will fall apart--

Red Guard is thick and will fill pin holes and small gaps---Cut the paint brush handle short so it will fit into the bucket with the lid on---

Use a hot dog roller and have a couple of extra covers on hand--there is no way to clean Red Guard from your brushes---


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:28 PM.


Copyright 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved