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Old 12-21-2011, 08:34 PM   #1
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how to tile shower stalls? gaps between durarock and drywall


i'm trying to complete my basement remodel and one of the last items is tiling of the shower stall. for the general surface, i think i know what i'm doing having just completed tiling of my basement floor. the only switch up is that a LOWES guy told me to use latax mortar for the shower walls.

however i'm having a bit of hard time figuring out how to tile my edges? more specifically edges against dry walls as well as edges against other durarocks. one wall in particular has a fairly large gap and i was wondering if i can fill it with drywall putty and paint it later? should i re-durarock those edges so its a better fit? is there a edge piece so the transition can be a little more seamless?? please advice.







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Old 12-21-2011, 09:41 PM   #2
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this post seems like it needs the help of Bud Cline the tile guy

as always, just my thoughts.

take what helps? ignore the rest!

good luck

coupe/Larry

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Old 12-21-2011, 10:08 PM   #3
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Welcome back Pedro.

First of all...
Could you post a bigger photo next time and really wreck the forum with it? That would be nice!

Okay seriously.
A little better job of fitting the cement board could have been done and could have eliminated a whole bunch of extra work.

Okay okay okay...Assuming I understand what I am seeing in your wide-screen version photos. Gheeezh it's like going to an old drive-in movie.

But, it still isn't too late. You can fix it.

The first thing to do is to buy some plastic corner beads used for drywall out-corners. Also buy a spray can of 3M's wallboard trim adhesive. Glue up the corner beads and then run seam tape along the edges of the corner bead. On the shower side fill and dress the corner bead edges with thinset and on the "gonna-paint-it-side" fill and dress the corner bead with joint compound.

The thinset will shrink and will have to be filled at least one more time. be neat. Once the shower side is filled and dry and flat, you are ready for tile. I don't care what you do with the "gonna-paint-it-side." You can deal with later.

Now this is going to leave some voids under the corner bead and what should you do with the voids you ask?

Beats the hell out of me - ignore them and hope for the best.

Bullnose tile is require I suppose you know.
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:56 PM   #4
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how to tile shower stalls? gaps between durarock and drywall


bud, tx again. The floor tiles turned out pretty good now I'm moving on to the shower. Since shower was the first piece I roughed, itself themed out to be a little rough with the dura rock ... I'll be going to a tile show room tmrw to hopefully find some bull nose
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:56 PM   #5
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that was typed on a touchpad, what a pain in the arse
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:36 AM   #6
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You are going to use a powdered thinset--Yes?
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:32 AM   #7
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powdered mortar (that's what they call it in LOWES, HD calls it thinset) that has latex
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:47 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vote4Pedro View Post
powdered mortar (that's what they call it in LOWES, HD calls it thinset) that has latex

Good
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:06 AM   #9
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Bud: you use 3M in wet-environments?
Not to be a snot - but I don't agree. He should not use it: it has a significant fail rate when it comes to just corners with paint . . .
it would serve no purpose - just extra expense - for this application.

Pedro: I think you should redo the pieces that are the worst to try to flush all of his edges - so no corner bead, just recut and readhere.
Even if you don't redo these pieces you can build up a sturdy and more reliable squared corner with mortar and mesh tape (tile backer tape) along the joints and corners.
This will give a full, solid and strong surface for your more costly bullnose tiles to adhere to - heavens forbid you bang into one of those and it falls off and breaks.

What are you planning to use for grout?
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:42 AM   #10
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Snav are you just prone to argue about absolutely everything or is it you just enjoy challenging everything I say?

Pedro feel free to PM me if you care to and we'll take all of the arguing out of this equation.

I'll put my thirty-five years experience (without a single failure) up against anyone's.
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:05 AM   #11
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With all your years of experience I expected something better than "Now this is going to leave some voids under the corner bead and what should you do with the voids you ask?

Beats the hell out of me - ignore them and hope for the best."
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:11 AM   #12
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Sorry to disappoint. There is a way to fix the voids and I personally would have done that had it been my job but in this case I have experience with Pedro and frankly it isn't worth my effort. No harm will come from leaving well-enough alone in this case. This forum is becomming more and more difficult to deal with almost daily.

So...why don't you (little miss wonderful with all of the answers) just jump right in there and fill the gaps I have left. I know a person of your infinite wisdom and knowledge can get this done perfectly. You must have been an MP.
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Old 12-22-2011, 11:40 AM   #13
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I'm sorry, Bud, if I come across as trying to fight you all the time - - what I'm trying to do is understand your reasoning and suggestions because I DO respect and value your input - and most of the time things make sense right away but other times they don't.

So with my post I was genuinely asking if 3M is used in wet environments . . . and I gave my approach to the situation which you were invited to disaprove of as you saw fit.

This issue has come up before many times (not with you always)
I think what I need to do is rethink how I word my posts so I don't come across as harsh and judgmental. I spend most of my time on a political debate forum so I'm sure I sound like a total prick.

Sorry for the thread derail Pedro.

Sorry for offending you, Bud - that's not my intent.
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Old 12-22-2011, 12:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
So with my post I was genuinely asking if 3M is used in wet environments . . .
Okay I have a little more time to explain now.

The 3M product is sold specifically for the intent I suggested. I didn't formulate the product, I just use it.

The product is used daily all over the country to install plastic corner beads and other misc. plastic moldings related to drywall installations. On top of the corner bead installed with the 3M adhesive comes (wet) joint compound, sometimes two or three applications of "wet joint compound".

The locations in this particular shower that I recommended its use are locations on the fringe of the shower walls (at the outside corners). I don't see a problem with the process. You do it however you wish. I've been doing this for a long long time without a hitch.

At some point the corner, and the thinset application on the corner, will be covered with tile (a water shed). You be the judge, that's my recommendation for fixing an error that shouldn't be but really doesn't matter if my suggestion is applied.

So challenge me all you like, I never do anything without a reason or past experience to back up my recommendations.

Last edited by Bud Cline; 12-22-2011 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 12-22-2011, 02:07 PM   #15
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Thank you for taking the time to explain, Bud.

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