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Old 04-23-2011, 10:03 AM   #16
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How to properly fill stress cuts in concrete before tiling?


i believe you should ignore all that was said as you will be happier today. Just a thought... what if the slab difference you showed is like that now because they moved to that position a week ago ?

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Old 04-23-2011, 11:28 AM   #17
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How to properly fill stress cuts in concrete before tiling?


It didn't but your probably right. I'll listen to the advice of all those in my area that have been working on tile in houses in the same situations as mine and trust their judgment. I'm going to start filling the stress cracks with backer rod and acrylic caulk, fill the one low spot in, and RedGard 3 feet out from each seam next week once the caulk cures and go from there...should be able to get away with 2x 3.5gal tubs and if I have extra I'll add another layer to the one side that's 1/32" low to even it all out.
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:44 PM   #18
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How to properly fill stress cuts in concrete before tiling?


Vs,
Just looking at your pics again. Are your cut joints evenly spaced? Just a thought. What if you used a small tile to cover the joints (double row of 2x2s or something similar)? This would isolated your large tiles from the joints and if something did crack, it would be easier to fix the small tiles. Also the smaller tiles would be less prone to break as compared to the large tiles.
Ps, I noticed your in northeast Ohio, what city? I'm in Macedonia.
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:13 AM   #19
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How to properly fill stress cuts in concrete before tiling?


That's actually a great idea Mike....I was thinking the exact same think yesterday and I started filling the cracks in. But they arn't completely even, they all angle slightly. If I tried to cover it up evenly I'd have to use at least a 12" wide pattern if not more and sometimes it's going to land on a corner in a weird way. They started the cuts from wherever on a outside wall had a corner and angled them to the support beam which wasn't always a 90* angle to the wall. Then there is a cut from support to support. For example see the attached....the front of the wall around my support is even with the front of the left wall (I know it doesn't look like it from the angle I took the picture but it is) but the cut angles in from that corner to the actual support within my column. In the second picture it's a lot more pronounced....the straight cut is from side to side and the angled one is from a back corner to a front corner.

I do think that would be the way to go though if I could figure out how to make it work. I could at least cover the side to side cut that's pretty even (or that would angle under the smaller tile) and at least one front to middle. Beyond that and I think it will look off but I'm going to recheck.

Oh, I'm right up the street from you (relatively speaking) in Burton.
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How to properly fill stress cuts in concrete before tiling?-outsidewalltosupportcolumn.jpg   How to properly fill stress cuts in concrete before tiling?-fronttobackcut.jpg  

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Old 05-03-2011, 06:06 PM   #20
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How to properly fill stress cuts in concrete before tiling?


I've ordered tile and ended up buying about 120 sq/ft of 6.5" x 6.5" on top of the 900 sq/ft of 20x20's. I will run the 6.5x6.5's two wide the length of the stress cuts....even though they angle under the tile I should be able to keep the entire cuts below the 13" wide small tile path so if the floor does shift it will only crack the small ones that I could replace relatively easily as compared to the 20x20's. I should also be able to make a decent pattern out of it....each outside wall will go into the center column and should look decent once I'm done.

I caulked all the cuts then used RedGard on them. Do I need to completely fill these small voids or can I just float the tile over them? (It looks like two different colors in this picture but that's because it hadn't fully dried yet...it's all uniform now).
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:53 PM   #21
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How to properly fill stress cuts in concrete before tiling?


Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post
Vs,
What if you used a small tile to cover the joints (double row of 2x2s or something similar)? This would isolated your large tiles from the joints and if something did crack, it would be easier to fix the small tiles. Also the smaller tiles would be less prone to break as compared to the large tiles.
Ended up doing exactly this. I was able to cover about 85% this way and what I wasn't able to is still within a inch or two.


I have run into two slight issues which may be nothing really but its still a concern. The first is I seem to be getting a lot of chipping on the edge of the tiles I'm cutting. I started with a small table tile saw with a 4.5" blade that cuts from the bottom and the chipping was horrible. I then decided to buy a decent Rigid overhead 7" with a sliding sled and it was better but not perfect. After some reading on the internet a lot of things said try to cut "down" and not "through" so I adjusted the saw to be down only enough to just barely cut through the tile which made the blade cut at a much shallower angle and that seems to have helped a lot. Is there anything else I can do to reduce edge chipping?


Second issue is I will lay about 800 sq/ft of 20x20's in between these. When I first ordered them I was told they were the same thickness. I got the 6.5x6.5 tiles first and started laying them down and used a 1/2 x 1/2 square trowel on the 6.5's to make sure when I got the 20x20's they would match up.

Unfortunately when I got the 20x20's they ended up being slightly taller....when both tiles are next to each other on the bare floor the 20x20's are a little under 1/16 taller. Do I need to adjust to a 3/8" trowel or just try to use slightly less "full" 1/2 x 1/2 trowel lines? Or should I be able to just "make it work".
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