Hardibacker Board Vs Cement Durock Board - Tiling, ceramics, marble - Page 3 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:56 PM   #31
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Quote:
Has anyone heard of a strong odor coming from Durock?
Yes. When CBU's are fresh, they tend to be damp so they cure better. They are packed while wet and so they stay that way for weeks. I've had a few customers mention the smell when first brought into the home. The smell goes away within a short time. Of course some people are or think they are sensitive to certain odors. If that's the case, it is up to them to investigate what products they can tolerate in their homes. This must be done well ahead of time and not while work has started.

Do these people have allergies or are they sensitive to certain chemicals?

Jaz

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Old 05-07-2012, 12:39 PM   #32
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JazMan -- I thought you might be interested to know that we returned the HardiBacker and bought Magnum Board, which is made of magnesium. The board itself did not have any odor, and once cut and mounted, there is a slight odor in the room that's sort of like a detergent, which I assume will go away. (Also, the room still has board dust in it.) Here is the product information from the website of the company from which we bought it: http://www.greeningredientsllc.com/p...uctID=5&type=1
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:35 PM   #33
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CBU under tile floor entryway


We have a 4' by 6' entry way that I am going to tile in a porcelain tile. I have a depth of 15/16". Wondering if I should use Hardibacker, Durock or Wonderboard and whether I should use 1/4" plywood (sealed) and 1/4" CBU or 1/2" CBU? What can seal plywood if I have to use it? It will get some wetness because of coats and umbrellas but not much.
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:02 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by tnesbitt
We have a 4' by 6' entry way that I am going to tile in a porcelain tile. I have a depth of 15/16". Wondering if I should use Hardibacker, Durock or Wonderboard and whether I should use 1/4" plywood (sealed) and 1/4" CBU or 1/2" CBU? What can seal plywood if I have to use it? It will get some wetness because of coats and umbrellas but not much.
You should probably start new tread but what's under your entryway for support and subfloor?
Cbu need to be 1/4" for floor and holds no structural strength for tile.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:34 PM   #35
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There is a subfloor (called carlap?) that consists of diagonal 2"x8"s that run across the entire house (two story walk out basement). The entry is on the top floor (away from the walk out to back yard). Structurally quite strong so we are looking for something to stabilize the CBU (plywood?) and then waterproof it.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:11 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnesbitt
There is a subfloor (called carlap?) that consists of diagonal 2"x8"s that run across the entire house (two story walk out basement). The entry is on the top floor (away from the walk out to back yard). Structurally quite strong so we are looking for something to stabilize the CBU (plywood?) and then waterproof it.
Ok and what's supporting the 2x8 planks? Under the section. 3/4" ply should be ok then cbu.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:05 AM   #37
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Thanks, we also have done some other research that confirms that the plywood is a good idea. FYI - The joists supporting the carlap are 2"x10" (very sturdy) and not going anywhere.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:58 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnesbitt
Thanks, we also have done some other research that confirms that the plywood is a good idea. FYI - The joists supporting the carlap are 2"x10" (very sturdy) and not going anywhere.
Yeah if you can afford the hight 3/4" ply A/C or B/C sanded will work and cbu 1/4" if not here is a option

http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/...e_over_plywood
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:19 AM   #39
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cement board over foam board


Hello All and happy Thanksgiving.

I just discovered DIY Chatroom and this string so I hope Jaz or others are still checking it.

I have a question about applying cement board (Durock style or Hardi) over foam board. I recently stripped a walk-in shower that was installed on a 2nd floor. The shower was improperly installed and that resulted in water leakage so even wood needed to be replaced. One additional point is the shower is on two outside walls facing south and west, half of which are out side walls and the bottom half are with a foamed attic so essentially conditioned space. Lastly the location of the house is in a high humidity gulf coast setting. I note this because it plays to the importance of proper vapor barrier placement.

Exterior wall is Hardi Plank>Tyvec>OSB>fiberglass. Historically this left the shower very cold in winter. As a result I want to add insulation before closing the walls. Having the exterior walls spray foamed is cost prohibative so I am thinking of using 1/2" foam board between the studs and the cement board. Since the foam board is foil faced on both sides it is also an effective vapor barrier. The two inside walls are uninsulated and would remain so.

My question is this : If I treat the surface between the cement board and the tile with a barrier such as a Kerdi type of membrane or liquid like Redguard do I run the risk of trapping moisture between the foam board and cement board?
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:35 AM   #40
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Green eBoard cracks wildly


John applauded Green eBoard earlier in this thread for its workability. But for temperature fluctuation tolerance, it's a fail. I had to tear out a large install 3 years later. Large cracks developed. And the company refuses to stand behind this product.

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