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Old 08-11-2009, 09:01 PM   #1
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Handful of tub tiling questions


Sorry for throwing so many questions out at once. I'm getting ready to tile my tub surround, and I'm reading as many tutorials as I can find, but some of these questions are still unanswered and for the others I keep seeing various opinions.


1) Waterproof membrane: I've read about a physical product like Kerdi, and also Redgard. Which is recommended?

2) Do I need to install vapor barrier behind the backerbaord? It sounds like the waterproof membrane I ask about above eliminates the need for this.

3) 1/2" for the thickness of the backerboard, right?

4) I am cutting out existing drywall, and putting backerboard in to 5'10" over the top of the tub. Should I err on the side of having the tile overlap the drywall, or err on the side of having the backerboard be higher than the top tile (in which case I'd have to paint it some of the backerboard and make a smooth transition -- eek, the that sounds hard)

5) Where the backerboard meets the drywall, what should I use to seal in between?

6) What's the recommended type of epoxy to use for shower tiles?

7) Should I use a grout sealer at the end?


Thanks so much!
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Old 08-11-2009, 11:55 PM   #2
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Handful of tub tiling questions


Hi 99 question.......ah ah Miles,

1. I use the Kerdi method for all my stall showers, it's the best method mainly because of the Kerdi Drain. You can get away with Redguard or Laticrete's Hydro Ban in this case though. Tub surrounds are not as critical, your choice.

2. You're right, nothing behind as a vapor barrier when using a surface membrane.

3. Yes, always 1/2" for walls.

4. Have the tile overlap the drywall.

5. The same thin set mortar you'll be using to bond the tiles, and the special fiberglass mesh tape. All seams

6. Thin set mortar. Make sure it comes in a bag. Nothing premixed even if it's called thin set. The particular type of thin set depends on what you're bonding to. ie. Kerdi gets unmodified, Redguard gets modified.

7. Yes, I recommend sealing the grout. But before that, back to the installation phase, get caulk to match the grout for the inside corners and tub/wall joint.

Jaz

you're welcome so much.
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Old 08-12-2009, 12:06 AM   #3
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Handful of tub tiling questions


thank you, thank you! such a big help!
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:09 AM   #4
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Handful of tub tiling questions


Good luck 99 miles, jaz said everything I would have... post pictures!
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Old 08-14-2009, 05:47 PM   #5
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Handful of tub tiling questions


Alright, I'm getting started in the morning!
Couple last minute (very basic) things:

1) Do I put the mesh tape on the backerboard joints, and then spread some thinset over that, or vice versa?

2) Does that need to dry before I put the Redgard waterproof membrane on?

3) For the 1/4" joint between the top of the tub and the backerboard, what do i fill it with? Just caulk? Does that come after I lay the tile on the board?

Thanks!
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Old 08-15-2009, 12:50 AM   #6
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Handful of tub tiling questions


Lucky I have the late shift.

1. If the tape is self-stikin, do it either way. Otherwise, thinset-tape-more thinset. Smooth it with a 6" flex putty knife, don't create bumps.

2. Yes, has to dry. How long? I don't know, I recommend overnite.

3. Caulk is probably best, although thinset if good too. You have to do it before installing the tiles, kinda hard to do after the gap is covered with tiles. Set the tiles within 1/8" of the tub, then caulk all inside corners and all dissimilar joints.

If the backer is going on the studs how you gonna bring the board down over the tub flange? Does this tub have a flange?

Jaz
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:09 PM   #7
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Handful of tub tiling questions


It's a fiberglass tub with a really thin lip that goes up, so I think the backerboard will go right over it no problem.

Thanks for all the responses!
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:29 PM   #8
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Handful of tub tiling questions


Quote:
It's a fiberglass tub with a really thin lip that goes up, so I think the backerboard will go right over it no problem.
Doing that would be a problem. It could put strain on the tub lip and cause the tub to crack over time and it could put a curve in the wallboard that you don't want or need. Remeber you are going to one day load that tub with 400 pounds of water plus the users bodyweight.

Install the wallboard short of the lip about 1/8" and caulk that juncture. Install the tile past the resulting gap to within 1/8" of the tub-rim and caulk that joint also.
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:35 PM   #9
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Handful of tub tiling questions


Ok, just to be clear, I'm posting a photo. So you're saying that the backerboard should be about 1/8" ABOVE the the top part of the lip that goes up? I thought it was going to come over that lip to 1/8" from where that lip meets the rest of the tub...

I also just posted a question about some mold i found in the 'general discussion' section in case you also know about that
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Old 08-15-2009, 08:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Ok, just to be clear, I'm posting a photo. So you're saying that the backerboard should be about 1/8" ABOVE the the top part of the lip that goes up?
Correct.
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:40 PM   #11
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Handful of tub tiling questions


Thanks guys! I'll post photos soon!
I put in the last tile last night!
Now, I have unsanded grout, b/c the idea was that my grout lines were to be 1/8". However, since this was my first tile job I have some variation. I used spacers, but imperfectly, so the majority are right at 1/8" but some lines are quite thin (usually near the corners) while a couple are about 3/16" (mainly the bottom row b/c I accidentally put the spacers in sideways -- I didn't realize it was thicker in that direction), and there's about a 1/4" for part of a shelf because my walls are wider than a 90 degree angle so it left a wider gap than desired. So, I'm wondering what to do about the grout. Should I use sanded instead? Or use the unsanded? Or maybe some combo of both?

Thanks!
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:32 AM   #12
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No guarantees of what results you might get but you could use "sanded" first then later go over it with "unsanded". Just a thought.
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:29 PM   #13
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Handful of tub tiling questions


Thanks everyone! I went with sanded grout and it seems great.

Here's the progress...

Up next -- caulking and sealing!
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:34 PM   #14
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Handful of tub tiling questions


Some final questions:

1) How anal do I need to be about going over the tiny little holes I see in the grout after it dries? I don't have tons, but I have some.

2) I grouted the inner corners, but now i see that people sometimes caulk it. Is grout ok, or should I caulk over it, or should I dig out the grout and caulk it?

3) I don't seal these tiles, right, just the grout? What's the best way to apply it? The stuff I got is TileLab Grout & Tile Sealer.

4) Do I seal over the caulk? I assume I need to let the caulk dry before I do the sealing?
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Old 09-05-2009, 03:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
1) How anal do I need to be about going over the tiny little holes I see in the grout after it dries? I don't have tons, but I have some.
Mix a little grout and use you finger to fill the pinholes. The soupy part of the grout will do the trick.

Quote:
2) I grouted the inner corners, but now i see that people sometimes caulk it. Is grout ok, or should I caulk over it, or should I dig out the grout and caulk it?
Caulking over the grout will achieve no purpose. The reason caulk is used is to absorb any tiny movements that typically occur in corners. It's not a big deal to remove the grout and use caulk.

Quote:
3) I don't seal these tiles, right, just the grout? What's the best way to apply it? The stuff I got is TileLab Grout & Tile Sealer.
You can not seal those tiles, they won't take it. You can use a spray bottle to spray on the sealer then wipe it off the tile. That's the most efficient way to do it. Give it a few hours and do it again. Sealer must dry between coats.


Quote:
4) Do I seal over the caulk? I assume I need to let the caulk dry before I do the sealing?
Matters not. You can't seal the caulk either but getting sealer on the caulk won't hurt anything. The caulk should be completely cured before any sealer is passed over it.
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