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-   -   Gutted Bathroom (http://www.diychatroom.com/f84/gutted-bathroom-185910/)

digitalplumber 08-25-2013 02:28 PM

Gutted Bathroom
 
So we have a clean slate on a small master bath that will end up with a toilet, 48 x 48 shower and vanity. The 2 corner walls of the shower have been walled with hardibacker. This is a 60's home and the old floor has been removed with its built up mud and we are now on slab, not a builtup base.


We want to do the shower in kerdi so to proceed, do these steps sound correct:

1.) break out slab around old drain to connect fernco and new pvc extension for kerdi drain;

2.) cement in hole around fernco and new PVC extension;

3.) build sub floor up on slab including shower? or do we ignore the shower area and just build to include the curb? or dont include curb?
(what to build this up with?)

4.) build curbs on top of new sub floor or what is decided in 3 above.(suggestions for materials to build the curbs?)

5.) build shower floor, install kerdi drain (kerdi kit or suggestions)

6.) apply kerdi fabric to all walls, floor and curbs

7.) apply ditra to new sub floor outside of curb (thermal break for floor heating and flex for foundation movement?)

9.) install heating wire on top of ditra embedding in thinset for porcelain tile

10.) tile shower walls

11.) tile shower floor

12.) grout

13.) install toilet with flange being mounted on top of new tile, with holes drilled through tile, sub floor and foundation for support?


How does this sound?

thanks!

oh'mike 08-27-2013 07:01 PM

I'll answer one or two at a time---

First is prep for the drain---
If the piping is old and corroded, I would open up the floor enough to replace the P-trap--after 50 years or so it is rough ---

A large electric chipping hammer or jack hammer will make short work of that.

oh'mike 08-27-2013 07:07 PM

Are you thinking of doing a hand packed base or a Schluter foam base?

As to the subfloor in the bath---I thought you were on a slab? that IS your subfloor---so explain---

I never used Ditra or Kerdi---I use the old fashioned liner method or Hydroban by Latacrete---

Schluter products are good and trusted---Jaz or one of our other members can guide you on that ----

digitalplumber 08-27-2013 07:10 PM

foam base

yes slab but floor needs to be buit up some

oh'mike 08-27-2013 07:15 PM

Keep the pan on the original concrete---

Jaz and Bud Cline have walked a lot of members through the installation of a pan and the membrane----you may need to go back in time a bit to find those old posts.

Will the floor be tiled? How much height would you like to add to the floor?

jeffnc 08-27-2013 09:15 PM

If you're using the foam base, then you'll be buying the shower kit, which comes with a curb, so I'm not sure why you're asking about curb material.

You don't really need to drill holes through tile to bolt the toilet. When you install the tile, you have plenty of leeway to cut out spaces for the bolts to go.

digitalplumber 08-27-2013 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 1235062)
Keep the pan on the original concrete---

Jaz and Bud Cline have walked a lot of members through the installation of a pan and the membrane----you may need to go back in time a bit to find those old posts.

Will the floor be tiled? How much height would you like to add to the floor?


Ok that answers one major question: the floor build up does not apply to the shower.

Yes the floor will be tiled and also wired heating. I was also wanting to use ditra, so was wondering if a cork underlayment may be needed for a thermal break?

Maybe between the: ditra, wire, cork and thinset and tile, the floor wont have to be built up. I need to take that measurement and get back.

digitalplumber 08-27-2013 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffnc (Post 1235123)
If you're using the foam base, then you'll be buying the shower kit, which comes with a curb, so I'm not sure why you're asking about curb material.




You don't really need to drill holes through tile to bolt the toilet. When you install the tile, you have plenty of leeway to cut out spaces for the bolts to go.

This curb (Kerdi) is pretty big, so I was seeking other input about how to do a curb.

OK I was just wanting to make sire that the flange was secure since this will be a PVC flange inserted into a cast iron drain.

jeffnc 08-27-2013 10:30 PM

Cut the Kerdi curb to whatever size you want.

Drilling through the tile won't make your flange any more secure. It's really a non-issue, but I just think it's harder than cutting a gap in the tile before the tile's installed. If you have your heart set on drilling the hole through it, then that will work fine as well. Just make sure you don't drill through the tile and into the wood, making the hole in the wood too big.

TheEplumber 08-27-2013 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by digitalplumber (Post 1234057)

13.) install toilet with flange being mounted on top of new tile, with holes drilled through tile, sub floor and foundation for support?


How does this sound?

thanks!

You can mount the flange on tile or on the concrete
I suggest you tile to the flange. Plastic flanges tend to interfere with toilet horns when set on tile(too tall).
The choice is yours, but however you do it. be sure its anchored to the concrete.

oh'mike 08-28-2013 06:47 AM

You need to do some research on heating pad and coils---I don't do them very often,however---

Read the manufacturers instructions carefully---

There is little to be gained by adding a thermal break under the coils---they benefit from the concrete--it is a thermal mass--yes ,it will take longer to warm the slab---but the surface will warm up rather quickly.

Once the slab is heated,the room will stay warm for quite a while after the unit is shut off.

Coils are most often buried under a layer of self leveling compound---the tiles can be set right on that without further preparation.

digitalplumber 08-28-2013 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffnc (Post 1235155)
Cut the Kerdi curb to whatever size you want.

Drilling through the tile won't make your flange any more secure. It's really a non-issue, but I just think it's harder than cutting a gap in the tile before the tile's installed. If you have your heart set on drilling the hole through it, then that will work fine as well. Just make sure you don't drill through the tile and into the wood, making the hole in the wood too big.


Thanks, there is no wood. This is on a concrete slab.

digitalplumber 08-28-2013 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 1235160)
You can mount the flange on tile or on the concrete
I suggest you tile to the flange. Plastic flanges tend to interfere with toilet horns when set on tile(too tall).
The choice is yours, but however you do it. be sure its anchored to the concrete.


Thanks, I have read that you should use a flange with a stainless or metal ring. Can you link me to one, other than the plastic one that I have?

oh'mike 08-28-2013 07:51 AM

Many plastic flanges have a steel or stainless steel ring for the bolts---the big trouble makers are the 3" inside glued flange---avoid that and use an outside glued flange.

digitalplumber 08-28-2013 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 1235239)
Many plastic flanges have a steel or stainless steel ring for the bolts---the big trouble makers are the 3" inside glued flange---avoid that and use an outside glued flange.

What would I use to glue the PVC to what I assume is cast iron? Silicone caulk?

Thank


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