Hi Yochujr, how do you pronounce that? (I thought my real given name was unusual).

Give us a name to call you by.
As you probably know by now, particle board is the worst possible type of underlayment or subfloor ever used. If the tiles were stuck to it directly, it never had a chance.
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I noticed that there was 1/2" layer or plywood subfloor with 1/2 particle board underlayment on top.
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So, the 1/2" ply is the subfloor and the particle board is the underlayment? Are you positive the ply is only 1/2"? Did you measure it or did you read a stamp from the underside? 1/2" ply measures less than 1/2", could it be 5/8"? How old is this house? I'm guessing it was built in either the '60's or 70's.
Once the PT is at the curb, you can evaluate the condition of the subfloor and decide then. I don't think I would remove the subfloor unless it's in sad shape. The subfloor is under the walls and so you'd have to cut it short of the walls, then install blocking to support both the new and old layers.
If you remove the old subfloor, replace it with 3/4" t&g subfloor, otherwise go with 1/2 or 5/8" underlayment grade ply. Then you should install a concrete backer into thin set etc. or a membrane such as Ditra.
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will this added thickness cause me issues when I go to put the toilet
back in?
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No big deal. Yours wouldn't be the first time. They make shims or you can use a thicker or even two wax rings to seal the toilet.
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Also, do I use a particular mortar to attach the new underlayment? I've read to tape and mud the seams. Should I just use mesh drywall tape and mortar?
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You're talking about the concrete backer now right? Durock or Hardie. CBU manufacturers want you to use a modified thin set (powder) to install tiles, most also suggest the same to install the board. So, get modified thin set mortar. Probably one #50 bag. Use the special alkaline resistant fiberglass mesh tape, proper fasteners.......
You should also run the framing specs at us to make sure the joists and framing are sturdy enough for tiles. BTW, what type of tiles?
Jaz