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-   -   Cracks in grout on newly tiled wall (http://www.diychatroom.com/f84/cracks-grout-newly-tiled-wall-122661/)

ImChris 11-07-2011 12:36 PM

Cracks in grout on newly tiled wall
 
2 Attachment(s)
We are in the process of remodeling two bathrooms, master bath and a hall bath. The master bath was done first, the installer did not really clean the tiles while he grouted on a Friday, and did not return until the following Weds so the grout was dried on. Below are pictures of what it looked like before they cleaned it (this is all I had at work with me.) It took 2 1/2 days of scrubbing and 3 bottles of acid to fix. From what I've read, this would have likely weakened the grout but I don't really understand what that means.

The issue at hand: The wall that has the shower head in the Master Bath is shared by the Hall Bath, which is where they began working 7 days ago. They demo'd everything, the house shook several times, and then put in a new tub that was a very tight fit and they had to actually shave some of the wall studs to get it in. Two days ago we noticed that the corner of the Master Bath, pictured below, has several cracks. We think the cracks came from the movement of the wall and work being done in the Hall Bath.

The contractor wants to caulk the cracks. I'm concerned about this, I feel they should remove the grout (when they're done with the hall bath) and redo it.

I would sincerely appreciate any advice and recommendations on our insistence that they re-grout and opinions on the state of the grout after the acid applications, thank you in advance.

Master Bath: One long crack runs down this corner, the hall bath is on the other side of the wall on the left (behind the toilet.)
Attachment 40596

A crack runs most of the length of the bench, and there are small cracks up the corner.
Attachment 40597

Bud Cline 11-07-2011 02:44 PM

You always use caulk when there is a "change-un-plane". This means the vertical corners the benches, the niches, the floor. Don't let him use caulk over the grout. The grout must be removed first. You can buy grout that matches all color caulks and in your case you should be using "sanded" caulk which is also available in all grout colors.

Kind of a cheap shot on his part but I think you're okay.

Bud Cline 11-07-2011 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImChris (Post 765803)
We are in the process of remodeling two bathrooms, master bath and a hall bath. The master bath was done first, the installer did not really clean the tiles while he grouted on a Friday, and did not return until the following Weds so the grout was dried on. Below are pictures of what it looked like before they cleaned it (this is all I had at work with me.) It took 2 1/2 days of scrubbing and 3 bottles of acid to fix. From what I've read, this would have likely weakened the grout but I don't really understand what that means.

The issue at hand: The wall that has the shower head in the Master Bath is shared by the Hall Bath, which is where they began working 7 days ago. They demo'd everything, the house shook several times, and then put in a new tub that was a very tight fit and they had to actually shave some of the wall studs to get it in. Two days ago we noticed that the corner of the Master Bath, pictured below, has several cracks. We think the cracks came from the movement of the wall and work being done in the Hall Bath.

The contractor wants to caulk the cracks. I'm concerned about this, I feel they should remove the grout (when they're done with the hall bath) and redo it.

I would sincerely appreciate any advice and recommendations on our insistence that they re-grout and opinions on the state of the grout after the acid applications, thank you in advance.

Master Bath: One long crack runs down this corner, the hall bath is on the other side of the wall on the left (behind the toilet.)
Attachment 40596

A crack runs most of the length of the bench, and there are small cracks up the corner.
Attachment 40597

That's kind of a lazy trick tiling around the window apron like that. The apron should have been removed, cut to meet the tile properly and re-installed.:)

ImChris 11-07-2011 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bud Cline (Post 765871)
That's kind of a lazy trick tiling around the window apron like that. The apron should have been removed, cut to meet the tile properly and re-installed.:)

Bud, one night I was going through our contract info and found the tile order that stated we had bullnose to be installed in this bathroom when the installer thought we did not. He was done with the tile, so it was sort of tacked on at the end, and I think originally he had planned to just let the tile be the edge and it would have lined up much better.

While I was camped on my post with my fingers crossed that someone knowledgeable would respond the project manager showed up to discuss with my better-half. We had spoken this morning to the crew working on our hall bath, and it may have been just trouble communicating. The project manager is going to remove the grout from all of the "change-in-plane" areas and caulk it with sanded color-matched caulk.

Thank you Bud, for responding! I feel better knowing what you put on here, and what he said, match. I've read many of your posts while I was poking around looking for advice and I appreciate you taking the time to give me some feedback.

Bud Cline 11-07-2011 03:55 PM

Quote:

The project manager is going to remove the grout from all of the "change-in-plane" areas and caulk it with sanded color-matched caulk.
...as he should. That's what should have been done in the beginning.:)

Unfortunately I see a lot of tile installations where the installer terminated a field of tile with only a raw edge of the tile. No excuse for that, none what-so-ever. There are too many ways to do it right.

I even saw that had been done on one of Dean Johnson's programs that aired a week or three ago. Pitiful, just pitiful.:)


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