Countertop - Tiling, ceramics, marble - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Flooring > Tiling, ceramics, marble

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-11-2009, 08:40 PM   #1
Member
 
toolbelt Tina's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 125
Rewards Points: 75
Default

countertop


I am tiling my counter top that measures 40.5 x 94 inches. I am using 23.25" and a 17.5 tile. The overhang is 16" beyond the cabinet.The tile is thicker than the normal 12x12s. It is a porcelain tile. I put down 3/4 plywood and 1/4 hardiboard. The overhang part sags a bit. Should I sandwich
some 1x2 in between the hardi and ply to give it more strength or support with a L bracket? Or is there a better plan?

Advertisement

toolbelt Tina is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2009, 08:05 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 3,118
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

countertop


Overhangs need proper support, either in the material making up the overhang, or with knee braces. For the support to be strong enough it has to go back over the CT, just adding to the existing will not work, for long.

Advertisement

Just Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2009, 09:13 AM   #3
Member
 
ccarlisle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 1,889
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

countertop


Since the cbu doesn't add any dimensional strength, in essence you have 3/4" plywood. It'll need more support and if that support is to come from the top itself, you'll need more plywood.
__________________
“The average American woman is about 25 pounds heavier than she was in 1960...Recognizing obesity as a disease will help change the way the medical community tackles this complex issue that affects approximately 1 in 3 Americans,”
ccarlisle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2009, 12:19 PM   #4
Member
 
toolbelt Tina's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 125
Rewards Points: 75
Default

countertop


Quote:
Originally Posted by ccarlisle View Post
Since the cbu doesn't add any dimensional strength, in essence you have 3/4" plywood. It'll need more support and if that support is to come from the top itself, you'll need more plywood.
I knew I could count on my tiling experts thanks guys

should I add another 3/4 sheet or would adding a smaller thickness do?
What about my idea to strengthen by sandwiching some 1x2s?
toolbelt Tina is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2009, 01:07 PM   #5
Member
 
ccarlisle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 1,889
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

countertop


We do tile countertops with overhangs (more like islands) where the thickness is based on a solid-looking structure, using various thicknesses of plywood sheets, Ditra and tile, to a maximum in overall thickess of 2 1/4". This allows us to use Schluter's RONDEC-STEP edging which gives us a clean, popular 'look'. We don't use cbu all that much as Ditra does the job quicker and better and gives us a waterproof surface. Other thicknesses are OK but with big tiles, I'd want to see good support.

A sheet gives fuller support than strips or L brackets. What thickness have you to work with?
__________________
“The average American woman is about 25 pounds heavier than she was in 1960...Recognizing obesity as a disease will help change the way the medical community tackles this complex issue that affects approximately 1 in 3 Americans,”
ccarlisle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2009, 03:12 PM   #6
Member
 
toolbelt Tina's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 125
Rewards Points: 75
Default

countertop


Quote:
Originally Posted by ccarlisle View Post
We do tile countertops with overhangs (more like islands) where the thickness is based on a solid-looking structure, using various thicknesses of plywood sheets, Ditra and tile, to a maximum in overall thickess of 2 1/4".

I am also building an island/counter hence the 16" overhang for stools.
I had not put much thought into overall thickness. I had some high end molding given to me which would have equalled the ply, hardi, thinset and tile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccarlisle View Post
A sheet gives fuller support than strips or L brackets. What thickness have you to work with?
I had seen where they put in the strips in between on the perimeter and a X on the inside.

I'll build up the overall surface to the 2 1/4 you advised. Now given that I am working with two different sizes 23.25 and 17. Should I put the larger tile on the overhang so It straddles more of the solid surface of the cabinet? Or does it not matter since I will have a thicker overall solid surface?

Should I attach the ply from under or above? Or is it just a preference thing? Under you can remove it. From above you live with it.

Thanks for all your quick help I am leaving tomorrow for my cottage to finish this up.
toolbelt Tina is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2009, 10:56 PM   #7
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,486
Rewards Points: 2,620
Default

countertop


Technically, THE BOOK says you should use TWO layers of 3/4 exterior plywood. If you cantilever the top it should have some additional supports such as "L" brackets or corbels. Forget the "strip thing" that's a bad idea I think. I assume there will be either chairs or stools associated with the cantilever. It isn't unusual for a person to use the counter top for leverage to rise from their seat, hence the need for the additional support. Try NOT to have a tile joint over the fulcrum of the cantilever.
Bud Cline is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2009, 11:07 PM   #8
Member
 
toolbelt Tina's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 125
Rewards Points: 75
Default

countertop


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
Technically, THE BOOK says you should use TWO layers of 3/4 exterior plywood. If you cantilever the top it should have some additional supports such as "L" brackets or corbels. Forget the "strip thing" that's a bad idea I think. I assume there will be either chairs or stools associated with the cantilever. It isn't unusual for a person to use the counter top for leverage to rise from their seat, hence the need for the additional support. Try NOT to have a tile joint over the fulcrum of the cantilever.
Thanks Bud
Should I put the 24" or 18" tile on the cantilever?
toolbelt Tina is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2009, 11:17 PM   #9
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,486
Rewards Points: 2,620
Default

countertop


How much cantilever we talkin' here?
Bud Cline is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2009, 07:30 AM   #10
Member
 
ccarlisle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 1,889
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

countertop


Not sure if anyone can say which of the two would best fit over a 16" overhand from a 'fracture' aspect...but I'd go with the 24" ones. Not sure exactly why just a gut feeling. But I also wouldn't go with the plywood from underneath i.e just doubling up the overhang area...I'd go with 2 1/4" thickness throughout.

But for peace of mind, I'd throw in some L brackets just to be on the safe side, as Bud pointed out. But that setup would do fine for a family with kids - just no 250-lb linebackers allowed to lean on it.
__________________
“The average American woman is about 25 pounds heavier than she was in 1960...Recognizing obesity as a disease will help change the way the medical community tackles this complex issue that affects approximately 1 in 3 Americans,”
ccarlisle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2009, 10:49 AM   #11
Member
 
toolbelt Tina's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 125
Rewards Points: 75
Default

countertop


Quote:
Originally Posted by ccarlisle View Post
Not sure if anyone can say which of the two would best fit over a 16" overhand from a 'fracture' aspect...but I'd go with the 24" ones. Not sure exactly why just a gut feeling. But I also wouldn't go with the plywood from underneath i.e just doubling up the overhang area...I'd go with 2 1/4" thickness throughout.

But for peace of mind, I'd throw in some L brackets just to be on the safe side, as Bud pointed out. But that setup would do fine for a family with kids - just no 250-lb linebackers allowed to lean on it.

i won't plan any football parties then.

what I meant was attaching to cabinets from above or below.
I am using complete sheets

Advertisement

toolbelt Tina is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
countertop installation - stove/oven issue diycarguy Building & Construction 12 05-04-2009 02:08 PM
New countertop, sink and faucet darlenep Project Showcase 4 08-17-2008 10:33 PM
Plywood under quartz countertop? kbrinton Remodeling 5 04-11-2008 08:04 PM
Sanding Cultured Marble Countertop? a2116 Remodeling 2 05-31-2007 05:39 AM
Countertop sink hole Grebus Remodeling 1 08-31-2005 11:09 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts