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-   -   Bathroom tile to hallway hardwood transition (http://www.diychatroom.com/f84/bathroom-tile-hallway-hardwood-transition-168865/)

iceclimber2001 01-11-2013 07:21 PM

Bathroom tile to hallway hardwood transition
 
I've got what I believe is a significant height difference between the hallway and bathroom. I'm talking around a full 1.5 inches once the tile is laid. I'm considering Ditra to get the difference down at small as possible.

I'll have 4 inches in the doorway to place a threshold.

The floor joists were a disaster (long story), so I sistered them to accommodate the new floor, which is two layers of 3/4 Plytanium, glued & screwed.

In hindsight, I should have finished with a 3/8 layer, but that ship has sailed with having glued the floor.

Any thoughts, ideas, tricks, or suggestions for the threshold to minimize the impact of the height difference, with function taking precedence over form.

Thanks in advance.

oh'mike 01-11-2013 07:38 PM

That's a big transition----I think a solid wood transition--flush to the tile will be the least obnoxious-

Use a large round over bit to roll the edge leading to the hall---I think 3 or 3 1/2 inch wide should look good.

joecaption 01-11-2013 08:23 PM

Second layer should also never been glued.

iceclimber2001 01-11-2013 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1091366)
Second layer should also never been glued.

Ouch. What's the down-side?

joecaption 01-11-2013 10:07 PM

Gaps and flex.

iceclimber2001 01-12-2013 10:20 AM

I can't imagine pulling the top layer, since the glue would just ruin the first layer if I tried to separate the two.

If by flex you mean flex from walking on it, the sistered joists are around 10 inches, sometimes less, on-center. There won't be any flex of any significance on this floor.

But if you mean expansion/contraction, then I do understand how that will be a problem.

JazMan 01-13-2013 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceclimber2001
I can't imagine pulling the top layer, since the glue would just ruin the first layer if I tried to separate the two.

No problem it's not the end of the world. You're a man right? That's what we do. We first do it, then read directions or ask someone. :laughing:

The flex Joe was referring to is not helped by the subfloor or joists. The possible flex can be caused by the tiny gaps created when thick glue from a tube is used. That several mils of space can eventually be a problem. But, in your case I think you're fine since the underlayment is 3/4".

Why is the threshold only 4" wide? It should be 4.5". You can have a special threshold made that has a bevel on one side, then use a 1/4 round or shoe molding for the rest. A well built bathroom floor is usually higher than the hallway.

Jaz

iceclimber2001 01-13-2013 09:08 PM

The floor IS bomb-proof. I wanted to go thinner with the second layer, but had heard/read that two 3/4" layers is "better". Obviously, I didn't realize the relative-height issue that would be forthcoming.

I believe the threshold may actually be 4.5 inches. I'll have to check. I may have rounded, since the marble ones in the stores is 4 inches.

It looks like I'll have to custom-make one, which will let me use my router, and probably justify a new bit!

Thanks for the feedback.

JazMan 01-13-2013 09:48 PM

Your threshold is 4.5" and so are marble thresholds sold at tile stores. The 4" thresholds are generally found at HD and Lowes etc.

I was thinking you'd have a marble shop make you a beveled threshold, many have them ready-made. They're used for this purpose and handicapped compliance.

I'm thinking the idea of making a wood threshold is not such a good one.

Jaz


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