adherring hardybacker to plywood?

gone_fishing · 03-29-2009, 09:30 PM

I am planning on tiling a small half wall counter I built. Have 3/4" plywood and 1/4" hardybacker. The instructions call for mud or thinset then screw to the wood. I planned on using construction adhessive and screws to connect the plywood to the frame and the same method for the hardybacker to the plywood. Is that okay? This is for a home office..not kitchen or bathroom.

Thanks!

ccarlisle · 03-30-2009, 07:52 AM

I reckon you should be OK, although most standards for tiling walls over HardiBacker (cbu) says half-inch. But this is almost decorative, like a backsplash - not a floor after all and therefore the requirement that the cbu and the subfloor (plywood) and the tile be 'integral' - that is cemented in place to make it 'one', to give it added support and resistance to flexing - is not there. It's a wall... So adhesive+screwing the plywood?: OK. Screwing the cbu?: OK.

Your modified thinset behind the tile will 'flatten' the wall it out fine. Mastic, or an organic adhesive is fine too, in this application.

gone_fishing · 03-30-2009, 09:24 AM

I am not tiling the wall...just the top of the counter. About 10'x18".

ccarlisle · 03-30-2009, 10:51 AM

Oh, OK. When we do kitchen countertops, we use Ditra because there's a water issue there but in your case, there isn't so even more reason to go ahead with your plan. Use Ditra if you want to uncouple the tile system from the wall, but watch out for the odd crack here or there if you don't.

JazMan · 03-30-2009, 11:25 PM

The question from gone_fishing was can he use construction adhesive from a tube to install the Hardie. The answer of course is NO. NOT if you wanna do it right. Why not do it the right way? You have to buy some modified thinset mortar to set the tiles anyway.

Jaz

ccarlisle · 03-31-2009, 07:01 AM

Jazman is right...boy did I misread that whole post, or what...!

gone_fishing · 03-31-2009, 02:26 PM

Got it guys...I will do it the right way.

Thanks!