Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Flooring > Tiling, ceramics, marble

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-03-2011, 10:51 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 92
Rewards Points: 75
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


In the saga project of my bathroom, I have finally finished re-plumbing, set the wiring up for the new lighting locale, and now I have the 3/4" plywood subfloor. We're going to put down small hex tiles that are era-appropriate for the home, however I have some questions.

The floor slopes a little because the floor joists slope a little. I'm not sure what to do. I have 1/4" hardi-backer to put over the plywood, but someone said I am supposed to put mortar UNDER it and then over it? Someone else says I should put PowerGrab all over between the two and then all the screws that it requests. Someone ELSE said lay the hardi straight over the plywood with or without the PowerGrab adhesive, and then pour self-leveler over it, except the lower edge of the room is the doorway to another room, so that's probably going to create a lip of as much as 1/2" on the right side of the doorway, and we just laid carpet in the adjoining room and the door between the rooms is a pocket door that I don't want to have to remove for major adjustments. *sigh* Now I'm confuzzled.

OurHouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2011, 08:07 AM   #2
DIY staff
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 22,109
Rewards Points: 2,860
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


How bad is the slope?---You may wish to pull out that pocket door before you begin tiling---

If your calculations are off that door may end up trapped,requiring demolition of the new floor to correct the problem.

Self leveling compound can correct a minor slope----major?? It's easier to sister in new joists --


Floor structure for tile--a nut shell---Joists strong enough not to flex and break tiles.
3/4" exterior glued plywood.

1/4" backer board set in thinset and nailed or screwed--(thinset fills voids so backer won't flex when stepped on)

Then Self leveling compound with its primer if needed.

then Tiles set with modified thinset----

__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2011, 11:24 AM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 92
Rewards Points: 75
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


I'm going to play with the level tonight and see what the corrections needed at each area are. Eyeballing it last night I was guessing the worst to be 1/2" to possibly like 5/8." I'll update this later, when I get home from work, and an play with it for a real number. The pocket door does scare me. I'm scared I won't be able to get it back in there. I have contemplated using a transition strip under it, and not bringing the tile all the way into the doorway, so that it's an easier ride on that, but I'm still undecided. Would pics help anyone on these issues?

And, as an after thought, if I'm setting the hardie backer in thinset, could I not just leave the thinset thicker in the area that needs to raise up a bit? To be completely honest, I wasn't worried about the slope because it's an old house, and if I wanted all level floors, then I wouldn't have bought an old house, but the plumber who ran the new toilet line said leveling would lessen the stress on the toilet, so if there's a stress issue there that I need to minimize then I guess I have to address the level issue... I always assumed a little slope off the front of the toilet would deter company from sitting on the thinking chair too long LOL

Last edited by OurHouse; 08-04-2011 at 11:30 AM.
OurHouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2011, 08:29 PM   #4
DIY staff
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 22,109
Rewards Points: 2,860
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


Don't be intimidated by a pocket door----think of it as a slide by closet door that is held in by some trim.

We will walk you through removing it and re hanging the door.

With tile---FLAT is good--level is not as important.

DON"T try to use the thinset under the backer board as a leveler---doesn't work--

You will be nailing that down every 6 to 8 inches---the thinset will squeeze out and the backer will be a wavy mess--- You aren't the first to think of this--

Self leveling compound is scary to use because it doesn't exactly 'self level' you have to help it and it sets fast---However it is not brain surgery and will be successful if you read the instructions and don't waste time.---Mike---
__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2011, 08:56 PM   #5
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,395
Rewards Points: 2,438
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


Quote:
Would pics help anyone on these issues?
Absolutely YES!

Quote:
could I not just leave the thinset thicker in the area that needs to raise up a bit?
As Mike has said, it can't be done that way. You should use a 1/4" X 1/4" X 1/4" notched trowel and allow the trowel to gauge the amount of thinset you put on the floor. Don't try to build it up any more than what the trowel gives you.

Quote:
but the plumber who ran the new toilet line said leveling would lessen the stress on the toilet,
Now that's a new one. Never heard that before. I suppose there is nothing worse than a toilet that is stressed out all the time. Can he suggest a place for your toilet to later get therapy if need be?
__________________
XXX
Bud Cline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2011, 10:24 PM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 92
Rewards Points: 75
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope




I played around with my level and the doorway, which is right in front of the toilet and gives one just enough space to sit on the toilet, it's about 3/8"-1/2" lower than at the opposite wall (the doorway itself isn't level, it's off by 1/8") The floor is flat, the flange is very tight, and after chatting with the plumber I do think that I had misunderstood his concern (he wanted to make sure the toilet would sit securely). So knowing that the toilet will be tightly secured, is there a reason to level this? The room is only 22 sq feet, so I'd have a whole bunch of extra self-leveler left wasted for... well... for what? Nothing else in the house is level, why should the bathroom be ?

I hope to get the hardie backer down this weekend, whilst waiting for the tile to arrive, but I suppose the next question is is there an easy way to take out the screw that I stripped that sits too high? I almost forgot it's sitting nearly 1/4" out right now grrrr....

Last edited by OurHouse; 08-04-2011 at 10:27 PM.
OurHouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2011, 10:31 PM   #7
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,395
Rewards Points: 2,438
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


Nothing says a floor must be level. If you are okay with it then that's the end of that issue.

Quote:
the next question is is there an easy way to take out the screw that I stripped that sits too high? I almost forgot it's sitting nearly 1/4" out right now grrrr....
What screw? Are you taking about the toilet pedestal mounting bolt?
__________________
XXX
Bud Cline is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Bud Cline For This Useful Post:
OurHouse (08-09-2011)
Old 08-09-2011, 02:08 PM   #8
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 92
Rewards Points: 75
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


No it's not the toilet bolts. It's one of the subfloor screws. We did other projects over the weekend, so it's still waiting, as the tile is on order, anyway, so there's no rush, per se.
OurHouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2011, 02:56 PM   #9
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,395
Rewards Points: 2,438
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


Quote:
the next question is is there an easy way to take out the screw that I stripped that sits too high? I almost forgot it's sitting nearly 1/4" out right now grrrr....
Break it off and forget about it.
__________________
XXX
Bud Cline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2011, 03:04 PM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 92
Rewards Points: 75
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


Break it off with what? Any suggestions? And there's no way it's gonna be flush, but I assume that's OK because the thinset will be going over the plywood?
OurHouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2011, 04:00 PM   #11
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,395
Rewards Points: 2,438
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


Break it off with a pliers or a hammer. Any protrusion that remains you can mercilessly beat it into submission with a hammer.

Are you playin' with me here?
__________________
XXX
Bud Cline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2011, 04:38 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 92
Rewards Points: 75
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


LOL NO, I'm not playing with you. I just... well... I tried and tried with the pliers and made ZERO progress. I'll just have to work at it more.
OurHouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2011, 04:48 PM   #13
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,395
Rewards Points: 2,438
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


Should be able to break it off by moving it back and forward repeatedly until it succumbs.

Or, just beat it down.
__________________
XXX
Bud Cline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2011, 01:09 AM   #14
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 92
Rewards Points: 75
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


It finally broke off. Tiles are on order, so some time soon I'll lay the Hardie Backer down. 1/4" notch trowel and thinset, right? Anything else I need to know?
OurHouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2011, 01:17 AM   #15
Tileguy
 
Bud Cline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10,395
Rewards Points: 2,438
Default

3/4" ply, then hardi? Prep for hextile, subfloor slope


Quote:
1/4" notch trowel and thinset, right?
Correct!

Quote:
Anything else I need to know?
Oh...probably.

__________________
XXX
Bud Cline is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
hardiebacker, hex tile, self leveler, sub floor slope


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.