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Old 02-15-2012, 12:18 PM   #16
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I plumbed in the rough in valve box for the shower yesterday and pressure tested it. Now I can cut off the caps and hook the lines up for the shower head and hand shower. And finally screw down the box.


Total bathroom remodel-img175.jpg

Total bathroom remodel-img177.jpg



I'm waiting for my Kerdi to come in, then I can start hanging the Hardibacker. In the meantime, I might get started hanging the ceiling drywall and doing some more of the electrical.

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Old 02-15-2012, 12:40 PM   #17
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You should not have used PEX for the tub spout---that often causes enough restriction to make the shower head dribble when filling the tub----change that to copper or threaded.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:25 PM   #18
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You mean below the valve box? That is for the hand shower, no tub spout here. The diverter will make the water flow to either the main shower head or the hand shower.

Am I ok?
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:40 PM   #19
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Or should I have copper on all connections after they are mixed?
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:45 PM   #20
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You should be fine --I thought that was a tub spout----

Is that a switched diverter or are you counting on the hand wand to shut off the water and send it to the shower head?

If that is the case then copper or threaded should be used for that fitting.
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Old 02-15-2012, 06:27 PM   #21
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The controls are all on the main valve, nothing on the hand wand. ...but, I had to take it apart so the top and bottom connections I'm doing with copper.

Everything looked good last night when I tested the plumbing, but today each 3/4" threaded connection had a drop of water on it. So I've taken it all apart and am trying pipe joint compound instead of teflon tape. I hope it works! The tape seems so thin and useless even if I go around the pipe 10 times. I'm just hesitant because I've never used the compound before.
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Old 02-15-2012, 06:48 PM   #22
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I always use both---TFE paste first then tape over the top---Works for me!
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Old 02-15-2012, 11:19 PM   #23
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I put the connections together before I saw your second reply, I only used the paste. I did switch to copper, if nothing more that it seems like it will be sturdier to screw in the fittings. Then I bled out the system and closed the service valves in the box to check for leaks on the hot and cold incoming lines. They look good so far.

Tomorrow I'm going to plug the two outlets and let it sit under pressure for a while and hopefully it's all good.


Total bathroom remodel-img179.jpg

Total bathroom remodel-img178.jpg

I'm hoping I can get this room done within about 1 more month so we can finally move in.

Last edited by housegsx; 02-15-2012 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 02-15-2012, 11:52 PM   #24
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I like your thinking---I feel better with the copper on the riser and the drop----Add a temporary stub out to plug the pipes---it will aid in your tile installation---get that under pressure----make sure you return the valve to the 'off' position so you don't get 'cross over' (hot and cold mixing in the rest of the house)
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Old 02-16-2012, 01:36 PM   #25
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Well, the connection for the riser leaked. I took it apart and re-did it with paste and tape. So far so good.
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:03 PM   #26
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While I'm waiting for the UPS truck to show up with my Kerdi I have a few questions:


I was planning to run my Kerdi roll horizontally instead of vertically. It just makes more sense to me because I can over lap the row above. Is this ok?

And if I run it this way can I continue through the 2 inside corners? Is there any reason I would not want to do this instead of using a bunch of Kerdi-band to seal the inside corners if they had been cut as shown in this picture below and on page 17 of the installation manual.

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On page 17:

http://www.schluter.com/media/ShowerHandbook.pdf


Also, since I'm using Kerdi, do I still need to tape the CBU, or does the thinset and Kerdi itself effectively tape the joints?
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:50 PM   #27
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Ok, I've finally found a Schluter video on Youtube saying I can turn the inside corner. No need for the Kerdi-band there.

I still want to know if I have to tape my CBU, but I don't think I do as it's not shown in any of these Schluter videos.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:31 PM   #28
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I really liked this post. You explain this topic very well. I really enjoy reading your blog and I will definetly bookmark it. keep it up
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:12 PM   #29
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Even though I shimmed out the studs with 1x3s around the shower pan, it's cast iron and the flange is really thick, so I also notched out the hardi to bring it down over the flange a bit.

Total bathroom remodel-img181.jpg


I decided to silicone strips or kerdiband onto the bottom of the back side of the hardi before screwing it on. I figured that will give me a really good lap that sheds any possible water back towards the pan.

Total bathroom remodel-img182.jpg

After the cement board was mounted I then siliconed the bottom of the kerdi to the pan flange. The top waterproofing layer will also lap onto the pan.

Total bathroom remodel-img192.jpg

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Old 02-29-2012, 01:24 PM   #30
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Other than than, I have almost all drywall hung. My tile has all been ordered and should be in by Tuesday. I'll be tiling around the room about 42-43 inches high. I think that should look decent and also give me a "built-in" backsplash for the sink, and still keep it under the light switches and receptacle.

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I have to get the electrical finished up before finishing the drywall. Then I can put up the kerdi in the shower and start the tile. I'm a bit anxious as it's my 2nd time doing tile, the first being my dad's bathtub surround probably 7-8 years ago. It required very little cutting so it was easy, but I used mastic which I have been reading is a no-no. Fortunately his still looks to be holding up quite well.

Total bathroom remodel-img200.jpg

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