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Old 11-29-2011, 03:34 PM   #1
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Total bathroom remodel


I already have a toilet and sink. This would be the matching shower pan. http://www.efaucets.com/f/kohler-k-9548-16.shtml

I just don't know what I would do about a frameless glass enclosure. I suppose get something custom made, I'm just afraid of what the price will be.
Another possible option would be this, I just don't know if that's a good brand or if the shower pan is of good quality. The price seems good though.
http://www.faucetdirect.com/vigo-vg6...-base/p1350625

Are the FRP pans a long lasting product? I just want it to flex and I don't want it to have scratches all through it in a couple years that don't come clean. I was looking into cast iron shower pans, but can't find a 2 curb design. I was originally going to use a Tile Redi pan but after seeing some reviews I don't think I will.

This will be replacing the tub I have already removed.

So far I have the entire room gutted down to the studs. The original hardwood floor is also coming up because I will be putting down ceramic tile. I just have to figure out how to plug the radiator and get it out of the room first.

The floor joists look to be 2x8 on ~16"c. My plan for the floors is 23/32 Plytanium dryply T&G with a 1/4 hardibacker on top. I hope that is sufficient for the flooring, but I do have some 7/16 osb I could lay under the dryply if needed. I'll probably add some 2x6 cross braces on the floor joists as well just for some extra support.

Other than that some things to do next are move a wall out 18" for some more room in the bathroom, the electrical, and redo all plumbing once I figure out what shower pan I'm going to use.

I'll get some pictures up of where I'm at later on tonight.

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Old 11-30-2011, 10:25 AM   #2
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How far do the 2x8's span? You need to have the floor with a minimum of "flex" in it to use tile. The wood under the backer also needs to be at least 1" thick. No OSB anywhere in the floor.
What sort of heat do you have? Steam or hotwater?

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Old 11-30-2011, 11:02 AM   #3
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I'm not sure how far the 2x8's span. I will figure that out as soon as I get the hardwood up. Also, the tile will most likely be 1" hex tile so I'm sure that alone ensures I won't see cracking in the tile, but maybe the grout is another story. Would you suggest I put 3/8 or 1/2 inch plywood under or over the 23/32 I already have?

The heat is gas fired hot water boiler. Cast Iron radiators. The house was built in the 1920's. I did take the radiator out and tried capping the pipes with galvanized steel caps and some pipe thread compound. One of them leaked, I don't think the thread types are the same and nobody at Home Depot or Lowes knows what I need. I did find some "brass pipe" fittings that maybe I could have used, but I didn't buy them because I wasn't sure. I don't know what brass pipe means if anything as far as thread types is concerned. I figured my pipes are NPT but I don't know, and I didn't see any piping at the store labeled as such other than some compression fitting for a hot water heater.


By the way, I forgot my camera and will get some pics up tonight of what I'm working with.

Last edited by housegsx; 11-30-2011 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by housegsx View Post
I'm not sure how far the 2x8's span. I will figure that out as soon as I get the hardwood up. Also, the tile will most likely be 1" hex tile so I'm sure that alone ensures I won't see cracking in the tile, but maybe the grout is another story. Would you suggest I put 3/8 or 1/2 inch plywood under or over the 23/32 I already have?

The heat is gas fired hot water boiler. Cast Iron radiators. The house was built in the 1920's. I did take the radiator out and tried capping the pipes with galvanized steel caps and some pipe thread compound. One of them leaked, I don't think the thread types are the same and nobody at Home Depot or Lowes knows what I need. I did find some "brass pipe" fittings that maybe I could have used, but I didn't buy them because I wasn't sure. I don't know what brass pipe means if anything as far as thread types is concerned. I figured my pipes are NPT but I don't know, and I didn't see any piping at the store labeled as such other than some compression fitting for a hot water heater.


By the way, I forgot my camera and will get some pics up tonight of what I'm working with.
I'd use a black pipe cap with teflon tape.
The span length is important, you can't compensate a too long span with a plywood floor. I usually use a 5/8 over a 3/4", but I guess you could use an exterior 1/2"(with no voids) is you wanted.
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:05 AM   #5
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I did finally get the pipes for the radiator capped. I took a wire wheel to the threads then loaded them up with teflon tape and success! The span of the floor joists is around 10 foot, but they are 2x10's, not 2x8's as I originally thought. They are notched out for the plumbing though, so I may need to sister in some 2x8's.

And for a laugh, here is my waste pipe that I uncovered last night.

Total bathroom remodel-img107.jpg
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:12 AM   #6
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Waste pipe is right!
If you can reroute the toilet so it's not going through a joist, I'd do that. There's nothing you're going to do to that joist to "reinforce" it.
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:27 AM   #7
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The only thing holding that flange is the shower drain(which has a hole in it) and the vent.

That is definitely the largest notch out of them all. I guess the hole saw wasn't invented yet. The flange does need moved as it was 16" away from the wall which is too far. It was an old toilet with a wall mounted tank. I think the flange is still going to have to be between those 2 joist bays though as it's only going back 4" and maybe a couple inches to the left.
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:21 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by housegsx View Post
I did finally get the pipes for the radiator capped. I took a wire wheel to the threads then loaded them up with teflon tape and success! The span of the floor joists is around 10 foot, but they are 2x10's, not 2x8's as I originally thought. They are notched out for the plumbing though, so I may need to sister in some 2x8's.

And for a laugh, here is my waste pipe that I uncovered last night.

Attachment 42102
That waste pipe gave me quite a fright!!
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:52 AM   #9
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Luckily it's not there any more! I took it out back to the corner of the room where the elbow goes downstairs. Looks like I'll be notching out the wall in the kitchen below to replace it all with ABS. I'd rather not risk leaving ANY cast iron.
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:58 PM   #10
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This looks exactly like my bathroom renovation from last year! We even ended up using hex tile as well. Looking forward to more pictures!

Oh, and I kept the original floor sheathing (7/8th pine) replacing where necessary. Then I added 1/2 plywood over that, and Hardi backer. My joists are also rough 2x8 (so true measure), and they only span about 10 feet for the bathroom.

I have a bunch of pictures, and happy to share if there is interest. Just don't want to hijack the thread.
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:51 AM   #11
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Sure, post some pics! Maybe they'll give us some more ideas. How do you like your hex tile? When I shop around for tile it seems all the hex tile is unglazed (other than some places online). So I've started looking at a octagon & dot patterns as well which seem to come in a glazed matte finish.

I think I'll be going with Ditra for the floor instead of my 1/4 hardi. It will make the transition to the hardwood floor not as drastic. I also plan on doing Kerdi over the 1/2 Hardibacker in the shower, but should I Redguard the Hardi first? I've read some comments that thinset directly over Hardi and the cbu will pull the moisture out of the thinset too fast??? Maybe I could mist the cbu before applying the thinset...
Originally I was planning on using just the Redguard, but since I decided to get a cast iron shower pan, the Kerdi will be able to overlap the pan lip to wateproof everything.

I'll be posting pics soon. Maybe tomorrow morning. Right now it's time to sister in some floor joists and rough in the plumbing.
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Old 02-09-2012, 04:46 PM   #12
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Some updates and promised pictures.

Here's all the new plumbing and sistered in 2x8 floor joists. All of the joists were glued and nailed on. Also, there no cast iron in the house any more! I had to cut a sliver out of the kitchen wall below to get the old cast pipes out. Everything is new ABS and new PEX. The 5/8" or 3/4" feed lines going to the shower were so corroded and full of deposits I could not even see light through them.

Total bathroom remodel-img122.jpg

Total bathroom remodel-img124.jpg

Total bathroom remodel-img127.jpg

Total bathroom remodel-img130.jpg

Last edited by housegsx; 02-09-2012 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:41 PM   #13
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Subfloor glue right before screwing down the 1st layer of sheathing.

Total bathroom remodel-img132.jpg


After the 2nd layer of sheathing. 1 layer of 23/32" T&G and 1 layer of 1/2" plywood. The studs for the knee wall are tied into the side of the joists. I decided that last minute to help ensure they don't move around.

Total bathroom remodel-img136.jpg


Test fitting the pan before moving on.

Total bathroom remodel-img133.jpg


Here the curb's built for the pan and the rear wall is in place. That's a closet for a bedroom on the other side.

Total bathroom remodel-img144.jpg


Close up of how I tied in the knee wall and screwed down the curb.

Total bathroom remodel-img146.jpg


1/4" Hardibacker in place. I was going to use Ditra, but the instructions said you can't with tile smaller than 2x2". I'll be using 1" hex tile.

Total bathroom remodel-img148.jpg
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:48 PM   #14
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Total bathroom remodel-img150.jpg


I might be grinding down the legs on the radiator now that the floor will be about 3/4" higher.

Total bathroom remodel-img155.jpg


Close up of the non-slip on the shower pan.

Total bathroom remodel-img157.jpg


I'm a little further along than this now, but I need to get some more pictures.
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:19 AM   #15
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Some more pics. All of the shimming is done except on the right side of the tub. I'm going to pick up the rough-in shower valve today and finish the shimming afterwards. All of the insulation is now in the outside wall.

Total bathroom remodel-img163.jpg

Total bathroom remodel-img164.jpg

Total bathroom remodel-img165.jpg

Total bathroom remodel-img167.jpg

Total bathroom remodel-img168.jpg


Is there any special adhesive to use for hanging drywall? That outside wall with the window might not be 100% flat. I got it as close as I could with some shimming and sistering in a few 2x2s etc. But I'd like to run a heavy bead of construction adhesive or something to take up any low spots. I was thinking I could put the bead of adhesive on and just hang the drywall with a few screws on spots that I know won't pull in the drywall. Then come back a few hours later once the adhesive starts setting up and finish screwing it down.

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