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Old 02-19-2011, 12:41 PM   #16
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Tore out ALL old shower, Help redo


Hi guys, thanks for the replies...
So I am just packing that 'dirt area' just the same as over the foundation? no wire-rebar for that little bit (I can't imagine I would, but just asking) and I am putting the new drain on the pvc pipe and packing the mud around it?

I am going to use hardibacker for the wall boards, do I need the thicker stuff? (5/8's I think) or will the 1/4" suffice?

I can't find kerdi in my town, so I will use redguard, hydroban I can't find either (I use 'cant find' loosely as I have a ton of home depot gift cards to help me save money on this project...although, I am not going to use home depot drains as they are all hideous cheap looking things)

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Old 02-19-2011, 12:50 PM   #17
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So I am just packing that 'dirt area' just the same as over the foundation? no wire-rebar for that little bit
Requires nothing more than filling it with cement.

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I am putting the new drain on the pvc pipe and packing the mud around it?
Correct. Keep in mind that a shower floor slopes at the rate of 1/4" per running foot of distance to the walls. So when you cement/adhere the floor drain to the drain pipe you have established (that) elevation, however at the walls the cement will be slightly higher. So...be sure you install the drain at a desirable elevation to begin with and still have enough cement packed in under the drain to support the job.
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:54 PM   #18
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I do not recommend RedGuard for a shower floor---Find a source for Hydroban or Schluters membrane.

Any good tile shop will stock both---This has to be right----Go with the product the Bud or I have recommended,please.

What is the cost of failure? Well worth tracking down the products that you know work,instead of the ones you think MIGHT work.----Mike---
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:56 PM   #19
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Once again--Bud types faster and speaks more clearly!
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:58 PM   #20
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I agree. Even tho Redgard is listed (by its maker) as a suitable shower pan liner product I don't think that has been proven in the field just yet. I would never use Redgard for anything more than waterproofing some wall joints or maybe an isolation membrane for floor tile other than in a shower.

Home Depot can sell you KERDI Mat, you have to order it. Any real tile store can sell you KERDI Mat also.
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:58 PM   #21
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Types faster???????

Are ya kiddin' me?
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:05 PM   #22
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I have heard of the Redguard 'blushing' when tile is applied within a week if application.

I have used Hydroban on shower floors on grade---nice thick rubbery coating--fast drying

Warrantied by the maker---very long track record in the industry---

I do think the Schluter membrane is the first choice for your install,but either is a good choice.
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:06 PM   #23
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I still have a hand cranked computer----
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:10 PM   #24
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You guys rock!

Ok, found hydroban in stock locally, there is one place that sells Kerdi, but they are not open weekends and I need to get moving on this, been a month now with no shower. I already bought redguard, but will take it back to the depot today.

I also already bought hardiebacker boards for all the walls, but I bought the thicker of the 2 (.42") but a buddy of mine told me thats overkill for the walls, so should I get the thinner hardiebacker boards?

I have a bag of 'levelquick underlayment' for that first mortar showerpan, is that the right stuff?
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:16 PM   #25
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I also already bought hardiebacker boards for all the walls, but I bought the thicker of the 2 (.42") but a buddy of mine told me thats overkill for the walls, so should I get the thinner hardiebacker boards?

I have a bag of 'levelquick underlayment' for that first mortar showerpan, is that the right stuff?
HOLD ON!!!
BAD INFORMATION HERE.

1. YOU MUST use 1/2" (7/16") Hardi, 1/4" will not work and the 1/2" is not overkill.

2. Level Quick IS NOT suitable for a shower base. Level Quick is a Self Levelling Compound and you can not use it in this application.
Take it back and get sandmix.
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:23 PM   #26
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HOLD ON!!!
BAD INFORMATION HERE.

1. YOU MUST use 1/2" (7/16") Hardi, 1/4" will not work and the 1/2" is not overkill.

2. Level Quick IS NOT suitable for a shower base. Level Quick is a Self Levelling Compound and you can not use it in this application.
Take it back and get sandmix.
Note to self 'dont trust a buddy' or a 'depot salesman', but I knew the latter.

So i'm keeping the thick hardie boards, going to go pickup hydroban (kerdi would be nice, but like I said, I want to get on this now, I only have the weekends to do this project...hell I dont even have time to go get the kerdi mat during work hours) and going to return the levelset and just get sandmix...we talking this for the showerbase? http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:29 PM   #27
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we talking this for the showerbase?
Again...No!

Mortar mix contains lime and will be sticky to work with.
USE SANDMIX.

You would mix the cement very dry so that you can clump a ball of it in your hand. You "place" the mix you don't pour it. Once you place the mix you then pack it with a hard trowel or board or whatever. Once you have it packed tightly you then shave it to the desired slope. After the liner, you do it again with the top cast.
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:21 PM   #28
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Ok...after tour of the town finding all my last minute things, I found a nice drain system that my wife will like the looks of

I had to saw out the ABS drain pipe as it had remains of the old crappy drain, so I got a coupler and some 2" pipe to redo it...but attached is a photo of the new drain attached straight to the drain-WITHOUT any coupler yet...that portion of the drain with the bolt heads is to be FLUSH with the sandmix shower pan bed I build right? so I want to make that drain pipe go up about an 1" or so right?

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Old 02-19-2011, 05:41 PM   #29
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The cement is to be packed flush with the top of that dish. You then remove those bolts and that is where the pan liner is seated into the dish with a little silicone on the bottom of the liner material. That drain is made for use with the vinyl pan liner. I wouldn't recommend you try to use a liquid membrane as a pan liner with that type of floor drain.

I'm now reasonably sure the way this thread has been going that you are going to shoot yourself in the foot before it is over with. I just feel it.
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:01 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
The cement is to be packed flush with the top of that dish. You then remove those bolts and that is where the pan liner is seated into the dish with a little silicone on the bottom of the liner material. That drain is made for use with the vinyl pan liner. I wouldn't recommend you try to use a liquid membrane as a pan liner with that type of floor drain.

I'm now reasonably sure the way this thread has been going that you are going to shoot yourself in the foot before it is over with. I just feel it.
BANG (just shot foot)

Ugh...so I can't use this drain, tile shop said I could

Are you saying the drain I purchased (Ebbe) is used in this rubber/plastic liner type of install?
http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html







So, what they are doing in this video on laticretes site is wrong drain? or is that a different drain than I have?






Last edited by stiksandstones; 02-19-2011 at 06:27 PM.
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