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Old 01-30-2011, 12:10 PM   #1
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Tore out ALL old shower, Help redo


First post...hello all.

My house was built in 1999, I am 2nd owner, been here 8 years. Builder was out a few times to fix leaky shower, but all they did was a sh1tty job repairing. I have given up hope, they won't call back, moving on.

Last weekend I ripped the entire shower out, was floated with about 2" concrete! fun, so I am down to the studs which are molded at the bottom door areas. I need to put in new framing/studs. Can I replace the studs at some sort of a midway point joining them with those metal nail joints or something? or do I need to replace entire stud top to bottom?

The base(?) stud, at very bottom, the one that is nailed into concrete foundation....I will need to put new one of those in, on both sides.

I will have tons of questions, so this is only the beginning. Thanks
(P.S. that old fiberglass shower pan will be gone. I am replacing it with a bunch of leftover new stone tile I had from another remodel we did back when we had a ton of money to do things like this going to have to do this myself due to lack of funds...would have just kept putting bandaids on the shower, but a mushroom grew out of the wall/baseboard the other day, that was the final straw)

Craig





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Old 01-30-2011, 02:11 PM   #2
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Rip out the whole stud, not hard to do. Replace the base plate with pressure treated 2x. Remove any moldy material and place immediately in a plastic bag. Clean any other slightly moldy areas that can't be removed with a mold killer. Do this right or it will come back to haunt you!

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Old 02-05-2011, 02:58 PM   #3
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Tore out ALL old shower, Help redo


Ok, ripped out the worst wall of them all, and the back wall/seat bench wall. The shower had always leaked at the door and previous owner did not ever fix it, so the damage was done.

None of the other walls were ever damaged it seems, but should I STILL remove every darn stud? In the photo, the red areas were the pressure treated base stud that I removed, the arrows indicate the areas that had rotting/moldy wood...and mainly at those end/arrow areas, not entire strip, but removed anyways.

Let me know if I still have to carry on tearing out the wall...that wall that is left with the wood paneling is the wall to my bedroom.
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Old 02-05-2011, 07:06 PM   #4
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None of the remaining studs look like they need to come out at all---If any are warped or twisted sister in a new stud along side the old one---the tile work needs a flat wall---use a straight edge --humps and dips will spoil your tile work---

There is an amazing amount of info on building walls for a shower---Look for Bud Cline's Blog on walls--

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Old 02-05-2011, 07:30 PM   #5
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Tore out ALL old shower, Help redo


Thanks mike...

Yeah, the stuff that was really rotten I removed, bagged up, tossed in trash. I put some bleach on the concrete foundation yesterday, wasn't the worst I have seen compared to some other water damage stuff on the web. Like I said, if I don't have to remove those other studs, would be great, if I do, then I am getting into more drywall work, disrupting my bedroom wall, etc...

The blackened looking studs near that shovel head in the pic, it appears to be from the black paper the builder had down before (it was thickblack paper on top of studs, then floated, then tile) because the wood seems fine.

BUT again, if someone else chimes in that I really should remove it all, I will do it, like ,Mrgins said, I want to do it right.

and will check that blog you mentioned. Thanks
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Old 02-05-2011, 07:38 PM   #6
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Last year was the year of the bathroom for me----17 total guts---more than half got custom showers--including a 4 1/2 x 7 1/2

Barrier free handicap job----There are a couple of other bath pros here,too. We will try to steer you right.---Mike---
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Old 02-06-2011, 12:13 PM   #7
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I have done a few full tile jobs in the past, but that was always done on an area that is already prepped for me, so I am confident about the tile work when I get there. Framing and the underlayment (is that the word? for whatever I go with, kardi, hardiboard, etc?) is going to be new territory for me. I'd just assume hiring someone to frame, but cash is too tight...floating the pan I probably will for sure hire though.

If I venture into the framing, I assume framing it off site, then bringing it in to the shower and mounting, regarding the 'step' should that be a part of the framing, or can that be put in after? Also, sounds like pressure treated lumber is NOT recommended by some?? which is odd.
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Old 02-06-2011, 04:11 PM   #8
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PT-lumber is wet and shrinks and twists something fierce----With todays waterproofing materials--you don't need waterproof wood-----done correctly no water will escape the shower and reach your seat or wall framing----Mike---
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Old 02-07-2011, 10:58 PM   #9
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So, I am all framed up...still need to build the step, I am guessing its usually 3- 2x4s stacked up?

And If I dare build the shower pan myself, which I don't think I will have the nerve to do, what is the basic step by step on the pan?

•lay a shower base eh? 1" from the subfloor? Is that going right on top of my concrete foundation, or should there be any paper? wiremesh? and what do I do about that DIRT area in the middle? And the STEP does not get mortar yet, correct?

•once that is done I want to put a rubber membrane liner that wraps up 6" from the floor, cutting the hole in the drain, caulking that hole, etc...

•this is a good time to put the hardiboard in eh?

•membrane is in, get the new drain handled/installed, lay the 2nd mortar bed and actual pan right? and this needs to be sloped towards the drain--do I mortar that step yet? at same time?

Getting comfortable with the process might get my nerve up.

If I decide to have a pro build the pan, do I look for a tile guy? and what is a ball park cost to have someone do this?



***edit
Duh, just found this page
http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html

Ok, so I can't use the wire mesh since I have nothing to nail it to right? (I am concrete floor) but its ok to not use the wire? and how about my drain problem (dirt area)

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Old 02-08-2011, 10:51 AM   #10
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Did you take a picture of the mushroom??

Seriously, I feel your pain. We went to replace some chair rail stonework in our shower, and ended up having to demo the whole shower. What a mess. And always more expensive than you think. I love the small tiles you have in the photo. They look similar to ours.

And I agree about PT wood warping... we have a bird feeder on a PT post by our window and we watch it turn a little more as it dries.
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:45 AM   #11
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This site will give you the basics of pan construction--Shower Construction Info (a collection of posts) - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Water proofing the seat area is absolutely essential!

Look for Kerdi and HydroBan--both good waterproofing.---Mike--
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Old 02-13-2011, 04:53 PM   #12
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Does anyone have an opinion on how to handle that DIRT area when I lay the first conrete/mortar shower pan bed? Obiously that whole pan will lie on foundation AND that 1x1 section of dirt?
-should I lay any rebar in there?
-should I fill that dirt with concrete first to make one continuous concrete floor area? BEFORE I lay that pan?
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:11 PM   #13
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Hey S&S,

Before you go any further, do yourself a favor and take a look at the Schluter Systems shower designs. In your case you could cast only one cement floor using Schluter KERDI Mat and Schluter KERDI Drain. That is really your best bet and doesn't require the knowledge of doing what you propose. The Schluter method would make things a lot easier for you.

You would cast one cement sloped floor, install the KERDI Drain to a 2" PVC drain pipe, Install the KERDI Mat for waterproofing the base and you are basically done with the raw receptor. You could then use liquid waterproofing on the walls and KERDI Mat to wall junctures. You would then install the tile directly to the cured waterproofing and the KERDI Mat. It's fast it's easy, and it's a helluva lot less work.

Please don't use any treated lumber anywhere in the shower. If it is there it should be taken out. Treated lumber will shrink as it dries and wreck a tile installation over time.
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:10 AM   #14
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Bud, thanks for the tips...been definitely thinking of going the kerdi route-but regardless of which pan style I go, what do I do about that dirt floor portion in the middle?

And as for Kerdi, you are not talking using the KERDI tray? you just mean their drain and kerdi mat (because their pans are in preset sizes, correct?)

Thanks again.
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Old 02-15-2011, 06:50 AM   #15
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Buds suggestion seems like the safest and fastest method for your slab installation---

The 'dirt' area was left open for drain adjustment--after the drain is set where you want it --pack it with the deck mud as you build the pan.----Google Hydroban--by Latacrete. That is a trusted brush on waterproofing---Just the product for the walls and bench---although the Schluter membrane will also do that job.

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