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Old 10-05-2011, 01:52 PM   #91
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


I just completed a tile redi pan using a versabond thinset morter....put about 10 boxes of tile overnight and good to go. Agree with most posts that epoxy was a pain to deal with but basin WILL NOT LEAK unlike other prefab basins. Just need to plan and be ready!!!

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Old 10-27-2011, 10:55 PM   #92
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


This is hands down the most awful product I've used in any home project. I sloped my last shower project and used kerdi. Much better option in my opinion. I tried this out as I thought it would save me time. Man do I wish I wouldve seen this thread earlier. Terrible product, and that epoxy is awful to work with. I'm now planning to rip the while thing up and take it back to lowes.
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Old 11-07-2011, 01:12 AM   #93
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Thanks for all the tips. I have a question..has anyone here work with kbrs innovative shower system. I am think to go with that one..any tips?
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:54 AM   #94
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


Never heard of it--post a link.
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:20 AM   #95
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Hi o'Mike here is the link http://www.showerbase.com/. I read all the questions and aswers here and as far as I undesrtood tile redi is ok if I screwed a 3/4" plywood over the base floor and over it the VersaBond 50 lb. Fortified Thin-Set Mortar to secure the shower pan onto the sub-floor. After that Mapei epoxy so Iwill have some to set the wall tiles. Should I use a waterproof layer over the shower pan before tile it? Thanks everyone
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:28 AM   #96
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Is it juss me?
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:24 PM   #97
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Mr. Cline,
I have a question about your installation. We did the exact same thing as your picture here with our tile-redi pan (ugh....wish we'd never bought the thing!) Now we have tiled the floor, but the square drain surround is not the same thickness as the tile. It is metal and won't adhere to the thinset mortar we used for the tiles. I've read and been told to use the epoxy to "build up" the area and then put the drain surround on it. There is Kerdi underneath (like your picture) and I thought I read somewhere that the epoxy will destroy the Kerdi. I'm wondering what you did when tiling the drain.
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:46 PM   #98
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Before I did anything I first talked with Schluter and they told me KERDI was not compatible with epoxy thinset. In fact a senior tech rep said the epoxy would eat the KERDI. That's all I have to go on.

Quote:
I'm wondering what you did when tiling the drain.
To be honest I don't remember, but I also don't remember having any issues with the drain elevation or placement.

Doesn't that drain-assembly offer a means of adjusting the drain strainer elevation at tile time?

I'm thinking I'm thinking!
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:27 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
Doesn't that drain-assembly offer a means of adjusting the drain strainer elevation at tile time?
Hi.....the round part does, but the square surround is basically a thin metal square with a hole in the middle to fit around the adjustable drain. Our solution (after much pondering) was to line the outside edges next to the tile and inside edges around the drain with drinking straws (which happen to be just below the height of the tiles) and make a little mortar bed. Once that is dry, we will attach the plate with Kerdi-fix and that should make it tile-height on an uncompressable base. I've attached a pic that will hopefully show up.
Thanks for your input!
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:32 PM   #100
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Hey that's right!!! I remember that useless little thing now. That chintzy little frame is about useless. I think they throw that in for people that may be afraid to (or can't) cut the tile to a round drain. Always seemed like an after-thought item to me. I don't remember using it.

Sorry I wasn't more help.


Okay I lied to ya. Sorry again!
I went and looked at the rest of the pictures on that job and I did use that metal frame thingy after all. I think what saved me was the fact that the (owner supplied) shower floor tile was cheap and thin and the frame did in fact work okay. I just don't remember doing it so must not have been a major deal. The photos indicate I set it in thinset but because the goofy square dimension of the metal piece didn't match the floor tile supplied by the owner I installed the metal diagonal to the floor tile.

Doesn't matter to me at this point in time because I will never touch another one of those things as long as I do tile.

Last edited by Bud Cline; 11-23-2011 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:41 AM   #101
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Why oh why didn't I find this thread before purchasing and attempting to install a 30x60 Tile Redi shower pan?

I installed using mortar and am having the same flexing problems that everyone else has mentioned. It's so frustrating because it really seemed like this system made sense.

I don't have access to the pan from below (finished first floor ceiling) and now I'm trying to figure out what to do. My options seem to be as follows:

1) Leave pan in place and screw down / inject foam then use KERDI to try and fix things in place.

2) Use Dremel to cut the pipe below the pan and retry installation with an alternative bedding solution as described by others earlier in this thread.

3) Cut the damn pan up with a Sawzall, chalk up $600 to a stupid mistake and go with a better solution or just hire a professional to do this.

Advice from others who've been in this situation would be appreciated. I don't want to deal with cracking tiles for years to come and I can't afford to have a leak into the first floor ceiling.

As an aside, the Tile Redi product is so damn frustrating. I'm a pretty capable person (framed, sheathed, wired, sheetrocked, insulated, finished) my entire second story addition myself. I can't believe that I've been unable to install this supposedly simple shower pan system successfully.
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:42 PM   #102
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We had the exact same sentiments as you. Ours (60x48) is installed over a layer of thinset mortar and had flexing. We drilled a TON of holes, squeezed construction adhesive, caulk, and concrete & mortar filler and sealant(came in a caulk tube by DAP), and put in screws until there were no more squeaks or flexing. This process took awhile to wait for each application to set up before we could test the flexing/squeaking. Then we put Kerdi on the whole thing includung the walls up to the ceiling. NO chance this puppy will leak! This seemed the best way to go, as we were pretty sure we'd destroy the thing trying to take it up and try a new mortar bed. I did read that someone had success putting down a deeper layer of thinset mortar (damming it with a 2x4) so that basically there were no air gaps (due to the deeper mortar). But like I said, we'd probably destroy ours taking it out, since it was pretty well glued in with the mortar. We are in the process of tiling now. We will NEVER use Tile-Redi again, and I stongly advise anyone else against it, based on our personal experience. We probably spent another $350 dollars or so on the Kerdi and Kerdi-fix (you have to use the Kerdi-fix to attach the Kerdi to the shower pan, then just thinset on the walls).
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:16 PM   #103
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For future reference:

I wouldn't recommend using thinset as a bedding for the Tile-Redi base. Thinset will not peak and hold, it will settle away from the form. Then as thinset dries it will shrink terribly. That's just the nature of the beast.

Rather, I would suggest using either (bagged) mortar mix or sand-mix. Mix it to a point it will hold a mound then place the Tile-Redi base into the mound. Don't get on the base for twenty-four hours so as not to compress the mix below.

The construction of the under-side of the Tile-Redi base makes it impossible to inject expanding foam everywhere it needs to be so I wouldn't even think about that technique. I have seen expanding foam lift entire garden style bathtubs so it wouldn't have any trouble lifting this chinsy shower base.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:38 PM   #104
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


I had a contractor set a tile redi pan for me. I noticed about two months after it was done while installing cement board that the parts closest to the curb were flexing. After reading this forum, I decided to try something different prior to pulling up the pan and remortering it down.

Steps:
1. First I used a long drillbit to drill a hole from the front of the curb back to the parts of the pan that were soft. I'm wasn't too worried about keeping the front of the curb water tight as I plan on closing up the holes with epoxy anyway. (I did 4 holes)
2. I picked up 5/8 clear plastic tube and cut in into four foot lenths. Since the pan is ribbed under I could tell when drilling the holes how far the tube needed to be put in. I put one end in each chamber I found soft in the pan.
3. Using a 5 gallon bucket, I attached a brass nipple on the bottom that would work with the hose. The bucket was elevated about three feet above the pan on a small workbench.
4. I mixed up a half bag of self leveler and poured it into the bucket and watched as it went down the tube under the pan.


Pictures from the process......
http://s1121.photobucket.com/albums/l508/Matt_Munson/

Thanks,
Matt

Last edited by Flipin; 12-19-2011 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:14 PM   #105
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Quote:
Steps:
1. First I used a long drillbit to drill a hole from the front of the curb back to the parts of the pan that were soft. I'm wasn't too worried about keeping the front of the curb water tight as I plan on closing up the holes with epoxy anyway. (I did 4 holes)
2. I picked up 5/8 clear plastic tube and cut in into four foot lenths. Since the pan is ribbed under I could tell when drilling the holes how far the tube needed to be put in. I put one end in each chamber I found soft in the pan.
3. Using a 5 gallon bucket, I attached a brass nipple on the bottom that would work with the hose. The bucket was elevated about three feet above the pan on a small workbench.
4. I mixed up a half bag of self leveler and poured it into the bucket and watched as it went down the tube under the pan.
Hence the name: TILE REDI

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