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Old 06-20-2011, 10:55 PM   #61
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


Dont use Big Crack you'll ruin the pan.....Buy a couple cans of gaps and cracks....like 4 bucks a can.....I sprayed a even coat on the floor and a even coat on the bottom of the pan. I didnt try to fill the voids of the pan. If you want to fill the fill the voids use the Dow window foam its a few bucks higher per can and wont expand at all....Also not filling the voids on the bottom of the pan gives the foam a place to expand to.

My goal was to get the pan to bond to the floor, I thought the pan was soild enough when I stood on it....keep me posted on what you think when you get your pan...


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Old 06-20-2011, 11:10 PM   #62
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Perfect response, thank you again. After re-reading your original post, I noticed you did mention non-expanding, which would rule out the black cans. I'll update as soon as installation commences...
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Old 06-23-2011, 09:25 AM   #63
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Update:

After MUCH debate between using the 2 bags of Versabond fortified thinset versus the Great Stuff sealant, at the last minute, I went with the Versabond. My reasoning for this choice was that if for some reason the Great Stuff did fail to work, it would be a pain to remove the cured Great Stuff from the shower pan before re-installing. Saying that, I'm sure it would be a pain to remove the thinset as well...

AFTER installing the pan, I came across two interesting PDFs from Tile-Redi, which clearly endorse using "construction adhesive" OR mortar...although in the instructions that were supplied with my order, there is no such mention of using a "construction adhesive"...

http://www.tileredi.com/pdf/TileRediBrochure2007.pdf
(Check out #6 and #7 photos)

http://www.tileredi.com/Tile+Redi+Pr...e+051807LR.pdf
(pgs 26 and 27 are the installation guide, which follows the same guidelines as the first link.)

I think it is strange that if these installation procedures are no longer recommended by the manufacturer, why have they not removed these links from their site?

Long story short, I used 100 lbs of Versabond fortified thinset to secure a 66" x 42" tile redi shower pan, and believe me, it's not going anywhere. It's rock solid underneath the pan.
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:17 PM   #64
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Glad you discovered yet another method to install these pans! I agree using the Spray Foam installation method is absolute and there is not turning back, and more then likely the pan would be destroyed if the pan had to be removed.

I'm curious if anyone could uninstall a pan using your method? I hope we NEVER have to answer that question!
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Old 07-10-2011, 08:19 PM   #65
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I just installed a large Tile Redi pan (37x72) and this discussion prompted some good questions that helped me prep more effectively. The pan went in without a problem, and is rock solid. I used the recommended Laticrete 255, 2 40-lb bags mixed to the consistency of peanut butter. The is my first attempt with any mortar, so I don't really have any other experiences to compare it to. I called the Tile Redi tech support before I started to clarify instructions- the guy (Scott I think) was very helpful and made the follow recommendations: 3 40-lb bags of mortar (2 bags of Laticrete was enough, but I could have used more), pour 3/4-1" bed roughly leveled, set the pan and shift back and forth to seat the fins, and divide the epoxy thinset into thirds to mix only a portion at a time. He also recommended Loctite Polyurethane Construction Adhesive to repair a corner of the lip that I snapped off when moving it in as well as I dent I put in the surface of the pan when I dropped a 2x4 (I've never felt so clumsy). The polyurethane cured solid and essentially welded into the pan- I think it's made from the same material.

I poured the bed and the Laticrete was so tacky I could hardly shift the pan left-right once I pressed it in. I pushed the pan down with my hands, moving systematically across the entire surface before leveling the edges. Some of the mortar pushed out the bottom, but again the Laticrete was so thick/pasty that most stayed intact. One corner made a sucking sound, so I pulled it up to see if there were voids before resetting it- that probably wasn't necessary.

Overall, I was pleased with the installation and relieved that it worked after reading all of the negative comments in this thread- my fear was that I was stuck with a non-returnable shower pan that was doomed to fail. The installation wasn't as easy as the video suggested, but it wasn't complicated either. At $650, the Tile-Redi pan was $250-300 more than ordering the Quick-pitch system and pouring my own pan, but this still seemed simpler, faster, and maybe more fool proof than learning to pour, slope and plumb a poured shower basin. Again, I'm not a professional and have little experience on which to reflect. I hope this is helpful for someone else considering a DIY bathroom remodel.
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Old 07-10-2011, 10:30 PM   #66
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This thread is like Herpes Simplex. It just keeps popping up when least expected.
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Old 07-13-2011, 08:46 PM   #67
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I am going to be installing a 30x60 base and I appreciate all the good suggestions and comments. I don't have access to the plumbing from the basement due to a finished ceiling. Are there any tips or tricks to set the drain pipe as you set into the mortar bed.

Thanks!!
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Old 07-13-2011, 08:49 PM   #68
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Quote:
I am going to be installing a 30x60 base and I appreciate all the good suggestions and comments. I don't have access to the plumbing from the basement due to a finished ceiling. Are there any tips or tricks to set the drain pipe as you set into the mortar bed.
Go through a wall on the drain-end.
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Old 07-13-2011, 08:56 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by sdwalleye View Post
I am going to be installing a 30x60 base and I appreciate all the good suggestions and comments. I don't have access to the plumbing from the basement due to a finished ceiling. Are there any tips or tricks to set the drain pipe as you set into the mortar bed.

Thanks!!

Did you read any of the real life horror stories here??

Those things are more prone to failure than success.
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Old 07-13-2011, 09:22 PM   #70
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Crap, I wasn't realizing what thread this was in. I'll bet you have a center drain. That requires some total accuracy in stabbing the pan and drain.

Sorry I was confused.

The elevation of the drain stub must be accurate as well as the positioning of the stub up.

Once the mud is in place and the pan is being placed don't get in that thing and depress the mud too much or the base will flex later.
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:18 AM   #71
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Ok. I already have the pan installed and it is "tile ready" (how mis-leading is that name?).

I too have deflections in the pan. I'm planning on the drill and screw method of repair. My question is do I have have to line the pan with the Kerdi/Kerdi Fix or can I screw it down and seal the screw heads with waterproof polyurethane sealer? (same sealer used for roof flashing, etc...)

Thanks in advance for any help!

Jeff
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:40 AM   #72
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Let's see what others have to say but you'll not be getting my blessing on that abbreviated fix.
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Old 07-20-2011, 11:12 AM   #73
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Let's see what others have to say but you'll not be getting my blessing on that abbreviated fix.
Help me out with your concern. At this point I'm willing to go the Kerdi route but was wondering if this "sealer" fix might work...
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:22 PM   #74
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Is your miracle sealer going to be compatible with the epoxy tile thinset they give you to use with that system?

I can answer that but I'll let you researcfh it on your own.
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:42 PM   #75
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


Not looking for a smart a$$ answer! If you want to be that guy, do it somewhere else!

I thought this forum was for help!

The sealer I have is from Home Depot, made by Loctite and is 100% polyurethane. This product remains pliable after application. My assumption is that because the TileRedi pan is polyturethane, the two would be compatible. Is it wrong for me to consider this option?

Loctite also makes a construction adhesive that is 100% polyurethane. It however hardens to a solid.

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