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Old 08-27-2013, 10:12 PM   #151
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


I found this site too late. I have become a victim of the tile redi pan. I have a 32x60 that I tried to back butter but the mortar fell out when putting it down. I would like to try and flip it over, fill with mortar and put a piece of 1\4 in hardie on top of the mortar filled ribs (maybe put a few screws to hold it in place. Then use thin set or construction adhesive to hold the hardie to the concrete sub floor. The only problem is that I won't be able to screw the hardie into the concrete. Will the thinset or adhesive hold it in place. If anyone is still reading this thread I would appreciate some feedback. Thanks!

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Old 08-28-2013, 07:58 AM   #152
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


That plan is unlikely to succeed--there is no way to insure that the backer board will stick to the floor successfully.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:24 AM   #153
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


If the mortar fell off the tiles you back buttered, the mix wasn't correct. That's not the pan's fault.
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:01 PM   #154
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


I am not using the back butter for the tile but to install the pan. Thanks for the input mike. I guess I'll try to put down a wetter mortar mix. 3rd time is the charm. If it doesn't work this time I will be taking a sledge hammer to it.
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Old 08-28-2013, 04:53 PM   #155
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Those people must have great lawyers----the pan design is a huge failure---

I build a lot of pans using a membrane---costs about $140 for the drain set--square cover --membrane and mud----never tried one of those shower ready pans---How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

Let us know how things work out-----
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:51 PM   #156
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I'll be following this thread for sure. When we were building our house, I looked into using a Tile Redi pan for the standalone shower but ended up not using one. Be interesting to see what troubles I dodged.
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:21 AM   #157
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


I just installed a Redi Base in a small (about 3x3) shower. After reading all the tips/reviews - I was scared to install it. I basically did this and it's as solid as a rock (I'm about 260 pounds and have jumped all over the base and kicked it around and it doesn't budge). I put in wonderboard down first over the framed wood shower floor. (I used modified thinset and screws). Then I just dumped modified thinset using a 1/2" trowel down and put the redi base on it (pretty much what they say to do). I put 4 bags of dry thinset on top of the redi base to weight it down. Went back the next morning and it was done. I did rinse off the bottom of the base w/a garden hose before installing. I've seen where some have had no problems and others have had lots of problems. I've heard of some using screws to hold it down and all types of adhesives.... I don't know why there were issues - mine was as easy to install as it said. I'm guessing that a flat floor and weighing down the base after putting it over thinset is key. If I had it to do over again - I'd use it again, but get it done quicker as I'm not so nervous about it anymore! G'Luck!
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Old 04-03-2014, 08:25 PM   #158
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


If installing on a concrete slab, (one story home) What should I do the the concrete before I Maipei this thing down
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Old 05-16-2014, 04:47 PM   #159
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


I recently did a 42X60 with great results. I didn't think their instructions made any sense. How can this pan work with only 1/2" of mortar? It is far too flexible. Here is how I did it after calling their tech support and getting clear instructions which I followed exactly.
Just use a regular mortar mix. You want something that is just portland and sand. I needed 5 60 pound bags for my trench drain style. The whole basis of your success will be in the consistency of the mortar. Look for something close to milkshake but you should still be able to make a bed without it running or slumping. You will need to be able to press your pan down completely to the sub floor and have the mortar flow out from all sides. It really is not that difficult. I built a bed of mortar 2" thick and stayed about 3" from all sides of the base. I laid the pan on it, tapped lightly all over with a rubber mallet and watched as it slowly sank down in and the mortar started to ooze out of all the edges. The pan is completely full to the top of every rib and feels like it was made of concrete under my feet. My wife and I were in it jumping up and down and could not even get a peep out of it.
I started when I got home at 5 and I was eating dinner by 6. I waited 2 days for the mortar to set before stepping in it.
An outstanding product.
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Old 07-04-2014, 11:15 PM   #160
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What did you use for the tiles on the pan, the epoxy that came with it or mortar.
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Originally Posted by RWPete View Post
Hi Aaron

Having just successfully installed a Tile Redi pan, your idea opens up a couple concerns for me. Compression. After you get the pan in, tile it, add the weight of a human and some water I fear that foam will compress and lead to cracked tiles and loss of the slope.

Wish I had a picture of the backside of the pan, but the ribs are not that close together that you can rely on foam for providing proper support.

2nd, whats your plan for meeting up with the 1" lip on the pan? Are you going to notch down the subfloor, build up the sub and surround. Cause again any compression or movement and that front seam will be a leaker.

You can do as I did which was to back butter the entire pan with mortar filling all the cavities (except the drain area, you'll see why), then skim coat your subfloor and plop it in and level it. I'd say the weight of my 42x36 pan was about 60lbs with all the mortar in it.

I am finishing the surround tiles today and I must say my pan is not only level, it is firmly attached to the floor as I've been in it for 5 hours tiling all the walls and I have zero flexing or any hollow areas. Here's a couple pics of my progress.

Richard

Pic 1. Zero Threshold pan seam to raised subfloor, expansion joint filled with silicon, leveled and then 3 coats of red gard.
Pic 2. Dry fit of pan tile.
Pic 3. My 12x24 tiles on the surround.
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Old 07-05-2014, 01:42 AM   #161
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I installed a 34x48 tile ready on a concrete slab using Mapei UltraFlex LFT. Checked and it is level all around and solid, I let it set for 4 days before walking on it and there is no flex at all. My biggest complaint is this is so proprietary with having to use the epoxy to set the tiles and I am using polished pebbles as my floor, and having to use epoxy grout . Expensive for such a small footprint. I WILL HOWEVER NEVER EVER EVER USE TILE REDI AGAIN.

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