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Old 08-27-2013, 10:12 PM   #151
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


I found this site too late. I have become a victim of the tile redi pan. I have a 32x60 that I tried to back butter but the mortar fell out when putting it down. I would like to try and flip it over, fill with mortar and put a piece of 1\4 in hardie on top of the mortar filled ribs (maybe put a few screws to hold it in place. Then use thin set or construction adhesive to hold the hardie to the concrete sub floor. The only problem is that I won't be able to screw the hardie into the concrete. Will the thinset or adhesive hold it in place. If anyone is still reading this thread I would appreciate some feedback. Thanks!

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Old 08-28-2013, 07:58 AM   #152
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


That plan is unlikely to succeed--there is no way to insure that the backer board will stick to the floor successfully.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:24 AM   #153
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


If the mortar fell off the tiles you back buttered, the mix wasn't correct. That's not the pan's fault.
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:01 PM   #154
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


I am not using the back butter for the tile but to install the pan. Thanks for the input mike. I guess I'll try to put down a wetter mortar mix. 3rd time is the charm. If it doesn't work this time I will be taking a sledge hammer to it.
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Old 08-28-2013, 04:53 PM   #155
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Those people must have great lawyers----the pan design is a huge failure---

I build a lot of pans using a membrane---costs about $140 for the drain set--square cover --membrane and mud----never tried one of those shower ready pans---How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

Let us know how things work out-----
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:51 PM   #156
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


I'll be following this thread for sure. When we were building our house, I looked into using a Tile Redi pan for the standalone shower but ended up not using one. Be interesting to see what troubles I dodged.
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:21 AM   #157
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


I just installed a Redi Base in a small (about 3x3) shower. After reading all the tips/reviews - I was scared to install it. I basically did this and it's as solid as a rock (I'm about 260 pounds and have jumped all over the base and kicked it around and it doesn't budge). I put in wonderboard down first over the framed wood shower floor. (I used modified thinset and screws). Then I just dumped modified thinset using a 1/2" trowel down and put the redi base on it (pretty much what they say to do). I put 4 bags of dry thinset on top of the redi base to weight it down. Went back the next morning and it was done. I did rinse off the bottom of the base w/a garden hose before installing. I've seen where some have had no problems and others have had lots of problems. I've heard of some using screws to hold it down and all types of adhesives.... I don't know why there were issues - mine was as easy to install as it said. I'm guessing that a flat floor and weighing down the base after putting it over thinset is key. If I had it to do over again - I'd use it again, but get it done quicker as I'm not so nervous about it anymore! G'Luck!
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Old 04-03-2014, 08:25 PM   #158
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Tile Redi Shower pan question


If installing on a concrete slab, (one story home) What should I do the the concrete before I Maipei this thing down
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Old 05-16-2014, 04:47 PM   #159
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I recently did a 42X60 with great results. I didn't think their instructions made any sense. How can this pan work with only 1/2" of mortar? It is far too flexible. Here is how I did it after calling their tech support and getting clear instructions which I followed exactly.
Just use a regular mortar mix. You want something that is just portland and sand. I needed 5 60 pound bags for my trench drain style. The whole basis of your success will be in the consistency of the mortar. Look for something close to milkshake but you should still be able to make a bed without it running or slumping. You will need to be able to press your pan down completely to the sub floor and have the mortar flow out from all sides. It really is not that difficult. I built a bed of mortar 2" thick and stayed about 3" from all sides of the base. I laid the pan on it, tapped lightly all over with a rubber mallet and watched as it slowly sank down in and the mortar started to ooze out of all the edges. The pan is completely full to the top of every rib and feels like it was made of concrete under my feet. My wife and I were in it jumping up and down and could not even get a peep out of it.
I started when I got home at 5 and I was eating dinner by 6. I waited 2 days for the mortar to set before stepping in it.
An outstanding product.
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Old 07-04-2014, 11:15 PM   #160
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What did you use for the tiles on the pan, the epoxy that came with it or mortar.
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Hi Aaron

Having just successfully installed a Tile Redi pan, your idea opens up a couple concerns for me. Compression. After you get the pan in, tile it, add the weight of a human and some water I fear that foam will compress and lead to cracked tiles and loss of the slope.

Wish I had a picture of the backside of the pan, but the ribs are not that close together that you can rely on foam for providing proper support.

2nd, whats your plan for meeting up with the 1" lip on the pan? Are you going to notch down the subfloor, build up the sub and surround. Cause again any compression or movement and that front seam will be a leaker.

You can do as I did which was to back butter the entire pan with mortar filling all the cavities (except the drain area, you'll see why), then skim coat your subfloor and plop it in and level it. I'd say the weight of my 42x36 pan was about 60lbs with all the mortar in it.

I am finishing the surround tiles today and I must say my pan is not only level, it is firmly attached to the floor as I've been in it for 5 hours tiling all the walls and I have zero flexing or any hollow areas. Here's a couple pics of my progress.

Richard

Pic 1. Zero Threshold pan seam to raised subfloor, expansion joint filled with silicon, leveled and then 3 coats of red gard.
Pic 2. Dry fit of pan tile.
Pic 3. My 12x24 tiles on the surround.
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Old 07-05-2014, 01:42 AM   #161
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I installed a 34x48 tile ready on a concrete slab using Mapei UltraFlex LFT. Checked and it is level all around and solid, I let it set for 4 days before walking on it and there is no flex at all. My biggest complaint is this is so proprietary with having to use the epoxy to set the tiles and I am using polished pebbles as my floor, and having to use epoxy grout . Expensive for such a small footprint. I WILL HOWEVER NEVER EVER EVER USE TILE REDI AGAIN.
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Old 12-10-2014, 09:57 PM   #162
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I installed a 34x48 tile ready on a concrete slab using Mapei UltraFlex LFT. Checked and it is level all around and solid, I let it set for 4 days before walking on it and there is no flex at all. My biggest complaint is this is so proprietary with having to use the epoxy to set the tiles and I am using polished pebbles as my floor, and having to use epoxy grout . Expensive for such a small footprint. I WILL HOWEVER NEVER EVER EVER USE TILE REDI AGAIN.
Agreed. Never never buying any tile redi products again. I wish i find this forum be4 buying their shower base. I see most complaints are true. Ordered the 48x36 double threashold with center drain for $650. Wrong size, want to exchange for a smaller one 42x36. Customer care said company has no return policy only exchange if call within 10 days period and must be approved. And they charged me 20% restocking fee + $150 shipping fee. I told them this was not a custom made pan they could sell it back anyone, at least waive me the return shipping fee becayse it was not a return. Tile Redi rep was so arrogant and was not negotiable for a penny discount. So, i paid almost $300 for a stupid mistake. Got the new exchane ordered, hola... The installation, the expoxy... You name it. Should have listen to my friend go with the traditional mortar bed.
So, if anyone still wants Tile Redi for the shower base. Be sure to know about their return and exchang policy. And, of course the agony pain of installation. Forgive my poor English ). Good luck
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:11 PM   #163
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I just recently was called to a job where a new Tile-Redi pan/tray had been installed. Same issues. Plumbers installed the tray but then stepped into the thing to bounce it down on the drain pipe. This compressed the cement under the pan and as a result the pan flexed when stepped after the cement had dried.

I too talked with the Tile-Redi techies and found out either they are very dumb about their product or very sly and are trying to avoid litigation.

Their reaction to me was as if this is the absolute first time this had ever happened and the first time they had heard of it. Liars!

I couldn't use foam for fear of raising the tray under the pressure of the foam expanding. Could have tried non-expanding foam but the problem there was with the built-in underside ribs and the cement, non-expanding foam really wouldn't do the trick because it couldn't get where it needed to be.

My solution was also to drill holes in the pan and screw it to the subfloor. Of course Tile-Redi agreed this would work but they weren't about to suggest it themselves nor give me their blessings.

It took sixteen screws to tame the deflection. I could have used silicone to waterproof the screw holes but I wasn't sure that would last or even work.

So...I used Schluter's KERDI Mat and relined the whole tray and used KERDI Band to waterproof up the sides. The KERDI was installed by spreading KERDI-Fix with a flat trowel and covering the tray 100%.

The guy that told oc250r that the tile would make the tray more rigid is just plain wrong. Mosaic tiles on a flexing tray WILL NOT make anything more rigid.

I also think the Til-Redi folks are guilty of deceit by not telling customers the only way to adhere tile to those trays is with epoxy thinset. Epoxy thinset is problematic in and of itself and really isn't a DIY product.

Not only that, both the bottom of the tray as well as the side must have the tile adhered with epoxy. These two tasks aren't very likely to happen at the same time. The problem is once the epoxy is mixed in accordance with the proper proportions the product is gone in a short time.

I asked Tile-Redi about that and the guy admitted it was an issue and that I would have to measure out a portion of the epoxy components to save back for use with the side-tiles later.

ARE YA KIDDIN' ME!

I gotta' tell ya folks...as a tile installer with thirty-four years experience and experience with almost every tile installation product on the market over the years, this Tile-Redi product is in my opinion one of the worst things to ever come along.

I wouldn't reccommend anyone spend their money on these things.
Thank you for your input. It so truth. Can i use their epoxy on the pan and install kerdi mat over it ?? Made a miskake ordering tile redi shower base and dont know what to do with it. Help plzzz
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:22 PM   #164
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Thank you for your input. It so truth. Can i use their epoxy on the pan and install kerdi mat over it ?? Made a miskake ordering tile redi shower base and dont know what to do with it. Help plzzz
The KERDI Mat is not compatible with the epoxy, it will ruin the KERDI. Throw away the epoxy and use KERDI-Fix to install the KERDI-Mat. Fit your KERDI in advance then remove it and apply the KERDI Fix and spread it (100% all over) with a small notched trowel and quickly install the KERDI Mat. Don't panic, but don't dilly-dally. You'll be fine.

After the mat has dried you can then use any quality modified thinset to install the tile.

Sorry you were victimized by this company, I don't understand how they stay in business.
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:26 PM   #165
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Originally Posted by cia2a View Post
if installing on a concrete slab, (one story home) what should i do the the concrete before i maipei this thing down
Take it back to where you got it and get your money back !!!

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