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Old 02-12-2016, 06:43 PM   #1
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Tile a bathroom vanity?


I'm replacing my current cabinets, and the layout
I will end up with something that is approx 96" long
Granite will be expensive, so I thought about tiling that counter top
Is it a good or bad idea?
Do I need 1 layer or 2 layers of plywood? What should be the thickness?
And should I use 1/4" cement board on top of it (onto thinset and screws, or just screws)

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Old 02-12-2016, 08:28 PM   #2
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Hello again,

One ¾" ply plus ¼" cbu install as ALWAYS into thinset will do. No one will stop you from using two layers of ply such as 2 @ ⅝" or ⅝" + ½".

Obviously a slab of marble or granite would be better, but with two undermount sinks it'll add up. What have you budgeted for the top and sinks?

Jaz

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Old 02-12-2016, 08:44 PM   #3
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I've made a few tops like that over the years. Just went and looked underneath to see what I did. I used a double layer of 1/2" furniture grade plywood. Whenever I have made these, I make up a wood molding to go around the sides and front edges to hide the plywood edges. I also have it hide the edge of the tile. I used modified thin set. Grouted the tile joints but left a small margin where the tile ends at the wood molding to match the size of the grout joint. This I caulked with matching color caulk. Seal the grout and you should be fine. Have your sink holes cut so you can tile up to the edge of the hole. I also used some decorative tile for the backsplash. Here's one I did for a utility tub cabinet.
Mike Hawkins
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Old 02-13-2016, 06:14 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post
I've made a few tops like that over the years. Just went and looked underneath to see what I did. I used a double layer of 1/2" furniture grade plywood. Whenever I have made these, I make up a wood molding to go around the sides and front edges to hide the plywood edges. I also have it hide the edge of the tile. I used modified thin set. Grouted the tile joints but left a small margin where the tile ends at the wood molding to match the size of the grout joint. This I caulked with matching color caulk. Seal the grout and you should be fine. Have your sink holes cut so you can tile up to the edge of the hole. I also used some decorative tile for the backsplash. Here's one I did for a utility tub cabinet.
Mike Hawkins
Looks very nice....
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Old 02-13-2016, 06:27 AM   #5
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Hello again,

One ¾" ply plus ¼" cbu install as ALWAYS into thinset will do. No one will stop you from using two layers of ply such as 2 @ ⅝" or ⅝" + ½".

Obviously a slab of marble or granite would be better, but with two undermount sinks it'll add up. What have you budgeted for the top and sinks?

Jaz
Hey Jaz
No specific budget defined....I just want to keep it low
I may use some kitchen cabinets (Ikea), which are 24" deep (24"3/4 including the doors). But my bathroom is large enough, it should not be a problem
Granite is expensive (that size - around 17 sq.ft -, it will be at least ~$1,000), I don't think engineered stone (quartz) is much cheaper...
I should take a look at what they call "Solid surface". Other option would be laminate, but I don't want that. This is why I thought about tiling a plywood countertop. Not sure what is best to put on top of it: porcelain, travertine, marble?
For the sinks, I was thinking about something like that:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Vigo-Ambe...T172/203184866
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Old 02-15-2016, 09:27 PM   #6
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I don't like kitchen cabinets in a bathroom because of their height an the extra depth. I prefer a finished height of about 33" instead of just under 36". The depth of kitchen cabinets may cause you a problem if you decide to use tiles. Kitchen cabinets require the top be 25 ½" deep instead of about 22" for bathroom cabinets.

I like natural stone tiles over porcelain, just looks better for the purpose, smooth, elegant. Either marble or granite.

Jaz
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Old 02-16-2016, 07:49 AM   #7
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IKEA cabinets are 30” high, and need to rest on legs or frame
And my wife and I are tall, so having a countertop with the finished surface at something like 35 or 36” is perfect for us
I know the depth is something like 2.5” to 3” more than regular vanities, but we have room in that bathroom, so it should not look weird
Why do you say it may cause problems with tiles? Do you mean 12x12 tiles won’t cover the depth of the countertop without having small cuts?
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Old 02-16-2016, 01:40 PM   #8
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Standard 34.5" base cabinets that end up close to 36" with tops, have become very common even for bathroom vanities. It's a little awkward at first, but if you're tall and the kids don't mind, it works for most.

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Why do you say it may cause problems with tiles? Do you mean 12x12 tiles won’t cover the depth of the countertop without having small cuts?

Exactly.

Jaz
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Old 02-17-2016, 05:51 AM   #9
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OK, so an option could be to make a backsplash, "thick enough" to make the countertop 24" deep
Then I can use 12x12 marble tiles.....I will need 2 full tiles to cover the depth
1) Should I use a specific thinset for marble?
2) It seems that for marble, the grout line is very thin.....Is 1/16" the right spacing?
3) Any specific grout to use with marble?

Thanks
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Old 02-17-2016, 09:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by french_guy
OK, so an option could be to make a backsplash, "thick enough" to make the countertop 24" deep
Not a reasonable option in my mind. The top for 24" cabinets need to be 25 ½" deep.

1. Of course.
2. 1/16" is fine, even less if the quality is good. Remember the finished width will be wider than the space cuz of the chamfered edges of the tiles.
3. Lot's of choices. Unsanded for sure. Might also consider epoxy.

Jaz
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Old 02-21-2016, 07:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Not a reasonable option in my mind. The top for 24" cabinets need to be 25 ½" deep.

1. Of course.
2. 1/16" is fine, even less if the quality is good. Remember the finished width will be wider than the space cuz of the chamfered edges of the tiles.
3. Lot's of choices. Unsanded for sure. Might also consider epoxy.

Jaz
When you say "of course", which one would you recommend, and which trowel size?
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:04 AM   #12
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For such a small flat area like this, any white thinset that is compatible with the substrate is what you need. Normally I'd say a medium-bed mortar formulated for natural stone because of the weight. HD has one called Natural Stone and Large tile among others.

Jaz

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